Sustainability and fashion : are students from the Haute École de Gestion willing to change their consumer behavior toward fast fashion ?

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Sustainability and fashion: Are students from the

Haute École de Gestion willing to change their

consumer behavior toward fast fashion?

Bachelor Project submitted for the degree of

Bachelor of Science HES in International Business Management

by

Marlène GOMES DE SOUSA

Bachelor Project Mentor:

Gabor MARKUS, HES Lecturer

Geneva, 3rd_{June 2020}

Haute école de gestion de Genève (HEG-GE) International Business Management

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Disclaimer

This report is submitted as part of the final examination requirements of the Haute école de Gestion de Genève, for the Bachelor of Science HES-SO in International Business Management. The use of any conclusions or recommendations made in or based upon this report, with no prejudice to their value, engages the responsibility neither of the author, nor the author’s mentor, nor the jury members nor the HEG or any of its employees.

Geneva, 3rd_{June 2020}

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Acknowledgments

I would like to thank my mother for always believing in me and supporting me. Through my studies, her presence and her encouragement were always appreciated. Her hard work, her dedication, and her love will always inspire me.

To my two classmates Christine Collet and Sindy Dinh, thank you! We started this long journey at the HEG together and until today, we are still present for each other. Christine, you inspired me every day, thank you for your wisdom. Sindy, you have been one of the best supports I could have had during this journey. You motivated me, cheered me up, and pushed me all along our studies, even when I was abroad, and for that thank you. To my mentor Mr. Markus, thank you.

Finally, I would like to thank all of the students from the Haute École de Gestion who took the time to answer my survey, your contribution was appreciated.

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Executive Summary

Today, millennials and generation Z represent the two largest generations in the world and have the most important buying power. In a time when sustainability and climate change are strongly mediatized, understanding how those two generations perceive and consume items derived from the fashion industry, the second most polluting industry in the world, is essential. Composed mostly of millennials and gen Z, students from the Haute École de Gestion are true representatives of those generations. Thus, by studying their purchase behavior, it is possible to have a better understanding of their position concerning fast fashion and environmental issues.

The main objective of this Bachelor Project is to determine whether students of the HEG are willing to change their current consumer behavior and adopt sustainable alternatives to fast fashion. If so, the second objective of the report is to recommend sustainable alternatives that suit their desires and needs for clothing.

By comparing previous researches to primary data obtained, it has been possible to identify variations between the consumer behavior of the students of the HEG and the Millennials and Gen Z depicted by searchers. If researches indicate that the two generations are sensitive to environmental issues and aware of the impact of fashion on the environment, the population studied shows a lack of knowledge regarding this matter. Furthermore, even though students do consider sustainability as an important issue, they do not include sustainable reflections in their purchase decisions. For that, and based on results obtained, a potential conflict between ethical choices and purchase decisions can be suggested. The students depicted in this research are not frequent buyers nor heavy spenders, they accord great importance to the quality and the price of garments and demonstrate a willingness to explore sustainable clothing alternatives, with a predilection for upcycled and recycled clothes, and second-hand clothes. Consequently, this research advises easing access to such items, by increasing their presence in locations where students frequently purchase apparel. Findings in the report also point out students’ lack of knowledge regarding environmental consequences resulting from the fashion industry. This gap is unfavorable to foster sustainable consumer behavior. Thus, this project also suggests raising awareness about this matter.

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List of Tables

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List of Figures

Figure 1 Growth of clothing sales and decline in clothing utilization ... 6

Figure 2 Increase of use of polyester ... 8

Figure 3 Estimated fibers released from wash and fiber loss from washing fabrics 8 Figure 4 Clothing value chain ... 9

Figure 5 Flow of clothes to waste in the EU27 annually ... 10

Figure 6 Market segmentation of the fashion industry ... 11

Figure 7 Retailers with active social media accounts ... 12

Figure 8 Importance of sustainability for consumers ... 13

Figure 9 Market estimate fashion/shoes in Switzerland ... 14

Figure 10 Triple Bottom Line ... 16

Figure 11 Expectation use of RFID in traceability ... 22

Figure 12 Repartition purchase second-hand clothes by generation ... 24

Figure 13 Gender repartition ... 28

Figure 14 Age repartition ... 28

Figure 15 Purchase frequency ... 29

Figure 16 Purchase location ... 29

Figure 17 Monthly average spending ... 30

Figure 18 Purchase motive ... 31

Figure 19 Importance accorded to sustainability ... 32

Figure 20 Level of awareness regarding impact of the fashion industry on the environment ... 32

Figure 21 Consideration of sustainability during purchase ... 33

Figure 22 Ranking purchase criteria ... 34

Figure 23 Awareness about Upcycling ... 35

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1. Introduction

1.1 Context and problem statement

During the past centuries, humans have been able to improve their quality of life considerably. From the discovery of oil and to the creation of the internet, significant signs of progress have been made. Globalization and the economy of scale have enabled to provide goods with accessible prices almost all around the world, thus leading to better living standards. If humans only see benefits from all those innovations, it is to the detriment of the environment. For decades, searchers have been studying our planet and its fragile ecosystem, but more recently, they observed important changes affecting the planet. Deforestation, climate change, and the rise of sea level are all caused by men. Human activity has been identified to have unprecedented impacts on the environment. Searchers are now giving alarming environmental warnings and governments are urged to impose changes. Companies need to take accountability as well and be part of this movement. The fashion industry is the world's second most polluting activity after oil (Friedman 2018). From their production to their disposal, clothes have a disastrous impact on the environment. Concepts such as fast fashion worsen the situation as they encourage consumers to follow trends and buy continuously new items considered fashion. Such behavior leads to overconsumption and fast disposal of clothes resulting in waste and pollution. People need to decrease their consumption of clothes and prolong their use. With approximately $44 billion in buying power (Wertz 2018), it is important to take into consideration young generations' consumer behavior as well. Described as sustainably and socially conscious, Millennials represent the largest generation today (Cheng 2019). Thus, acknowledging their power and influence on the future is primordial to see changes. Generation Z is also an important segment of the population, this generation is showing a growing interest in sustainable shopping habits (Driver 2019). While researches for sustainable clothes are increasing on the internet (Cheng 2019), according to studies, both generations are planning on reducing their consumption of fast fashion items to adopt more sustainable practices (Driver 2019). Such change is promising but with a constantly growing population, it is essential to admit that the need for new clothes will never end. Nonetheless, alternatives to fast fashion exist and they can be used to reduce harmful impacts on the environment.

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1.2 Purpose of the study

The purpose of this study is to understand the consumer behavior of students at the Haute École de Gestion de Genève, toward sustainable fashion. Composed primarily of Millennials and Gen Z, the students represent a new generation of consumers, with different perceptions and expectations of the clothing industry. The study also aims at identifying whether students are willing to change their actual purchase behavior and adopt sustainable alternatives. The final objective is to determine which alternatives are likely to be accepted by students and recommend suitable ones.

1.3 Organization of the thesis

To have a better understanding of the problematic, in the first part of the study, the history of fashion and the environmental impacts resulting from such activity will be explained. In the second part, by comparing and analyzing relevant secondary data, the current consumer behavior of millennials and gen Z will be depicted. Finally, the study will focus on the concept of sustainable development and explain what it means and implies in the fashion industry. The survey conducted along this research will provide insights about the target group and help draw final recommendations.

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2. Literature review

To describe the current situation in the fashion industry and to have a better understanding of its impact on the environment, the literature review has been divided into four subjects. The first one explains the evolution of textile manufacture, from its beginning up to the creation of the fashion industry. It also includes a description of the business model applied and its supply chain. The second part of the literature review describes the harmful impacts of such an industry on the environment. It is followed by sections three and four which highlight current changes in consumer behavior and provide details regarding available alternatives to fast fashion.

2.1 History of the Fashion industry

Early age of the textile industry

Before the introduction of cotton as a source of raw material, wool was widely used to produce clothes. From the farming of sheep to the actual production of garments, this tedious process was run by small hands in homes. It was known as the domestic system. At that time, such a system was convenient because it did not require people to have an education or to be highly trained in order to contribute to the production. Tasks could be divided and executed along the day or after work. The system would include tasks such as raising sheep, spinning yarn, and weaving clothes. Yet, the domestic system also had impediments, it required significant men power and therefore limited the overall production. Through the years, factories were built, and new inventions followed. The fulling mill was the first of its kind, this machine did not require men's power and permitted to work faster and by 1719, Thomas Lombe built the first water-powered textile factory consequently relying on hydropower (McDonald 2012 p.171). Later, the East India Company introduced cotton in England. The introduction of this new fiber enabled to diversify garments and offered a larger choice of fabric to people. During that period people enjoyed garments made of wool, cotton, as well as silk, and the demand, kept increasing. At the same time, the world’s demand for English products was increasing as well, and the country production, mainly handmade, could not keep up with it. Such production was not sustainable anymore and a need for performant machines was felt. Fortunately, technological innovations were advancing fast, and shortly after, inventions such as the flying shuttle and the spinning wheel were born (McDonald 2012 p.172).

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Mass-produced clothes

The sewing machine was quickly adopted by women during the twentieth century. For a long time, it was still more profitable to sew clothes rather than buying ready to wear clothes (McDonald 2012 P.196). But industrialization became global and soon, western countries focused their attention and resources on new technologies and research and development, consequently renouncing slowly to manual activities such as clothes production. The textile industry being low capital-labor, poorer countries were then able to compete internationally, submerging the world with low prices ready to wear clothes (Allen 2017 P.102-103). Following this labor transition, western consumers realized the value of buying mass-produced clothes and from that point, the demand kept rising. The birth of fast fashion, a controversial consumption model

Fashion:

“The prevailing style during a particular time” (Merriam-Webster 2020)

From the ancient Greek toga to the first two pieces bikini, fashion has always been present. For centuries, people have been able to express their social status, wealth, and emotions by adopting a look and wearing specific clothes (English 2013 p.30). Fashion has also been shaped throughout history. Wars, recessions, political upheavals, and revolutions were all events that impacted the ways people dressed. For a long time, one of the goals of fashion was to create a distinction in social classes. “Clothes have almost always been expensive, hard to come by, and highly valued; they have been used as alternate currency in many societies” (Cline 2012 p.12). Therefore, fashion was perceived as a luxury out of reach for many. According to Maslow’s Pyramid, humans need for clothes is physiological, and required for their survival. During cold periods, clothes keep the human body warm, avoiding frostbite and hypothermia to only mentioned few effects cold temperatures can have on the body (Angst 2019). While clothes are needed, fashion, on the other hand, is not a necessity for human survival. In fact, as explained by Nikolay Anguelov in The Dirty Side of the Garment Industry fast fashion and its negative impact on environment and society (2015), the fashion industry business model is based on a lie. The lie is that consumers are asking for fashionable items, therefore suggesting that this industry is consumer-driven. Whereas it is actually the opposite. Fashion is dictated by a handful of people who decide what is in vogue and what is not. Trends are created and then destroyed by the same entities which claim to respond to the demand for novelty. Such phenomena can be observed in the evolution of clothes production. In the past, fashion houses and luxury brands used to design eight

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traditional “seasons”. New items were introduced to customers at the beginning of each season, therefore restraining the production and consumption flow of the finished goods (Anguelov 2015 p.5). Nowadays, “fast fashion goes through 50 micro seasons a year” (Singh 2019). But, how has it been possible to create and increase such desire for fashionable clothes among consumers? To answer this question, Elizabeth L. Cline suggests in her book to look at the power of fashion magazines and the evolution of the internet. “Before fashion met Hollywood and the Internet, Steele says that information about new looks was tightly controlled by fashion magazines and their editors, who would dictate a few winners and a fairly singular vision of where fashion was headed.” (Cline 2012). With the improvement of the internet, platforms such as blogs and social media have been created thus, allowing any individual to share, influence, and have access to fashion contents. In addition, people have now the possibility to see runways from their computers and mobile phones almost instantaneously. Such exposure results in a rapid and growing desire for last trends items, and this is where fashion retailers had and still have an important role. They are the ones who can recreate/produce and deliver tangible fashionable clothes in a record production time and at an affordable price (Cline 2012 p.96). Another element that has an important role in consumers’ behavior is the fear of missing out, also known as FOMO. By creating micro seasons, retailers are able to constantly add new products to their shelves. Such rapid changes create frustration among customers, as they progressively feel that their previous purchases are out of date. The fear of missing out also leads to this unattainable goal to stay up to date with trends that result in overconsumption (Singh 2019). “The average person buys 60 percent more items of clothing and keeps them for about half as long as 15 years ago.” (Cobbing, Vicaire 2016). By acknowledging Elizabeth L. Cline, Nikolay Anguelov, and Ambika Singh work, it is possible to affirm that fashion trends are dictated by the fashion industry and that consumers are told how to consume it.

A meticulous supply chains

To sustain their growth, retailers in the clothing sector need to provide new items frequently. Yet, with a continuously increasing demand, their business model can become challenging. To overcome those challenges the fashion industry needs to rely on an efficient and agile supply chain model. The most adequate and efficient strategy for this type of business is vertical integration.

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the fashion supply chain model is the analysis and understanding of the demand. “Zara was a pioneer in using technology, including PDAs (personal digital assistants) to capture real-time consumer data not only on transactions, but also on preferences underlying perceptions of value. Stores are also directly linked backward to internally-controlled production and fulfillment systems, which means demand data flows unimpeded to the supply chain.” (O’Marah 2016). By analyzing consumers’ demand and evaluating the certainty of it, companies can forecast their production volume. Additionally, by prioritizing the production of specific items and dividing their product lines, top-performing companies have been able to shorten time to market. Clothes categorized as basic have a lead time that can go up to six months, while the lead time for new in-season clothes is somewhere between three and six weeks from the design to the delivery (Hunter, Marchessou, Schmidt 2018). The combination of analysis, technology, and strategy led to great improvements in terms of products available for customers. Finally, by combining quick and agile response, this industry is capable to design, produce, and ship ready to wear clothes internationally, while maintaining low prices (Muthu 2019a p.4-6).

Consumer behavior

Nowadays, with constant low prices, large choices, and all-time availability, people are buying more clothes than ever (figure 1). “In the last thirty years, fashion has grown from a $500 billion trade, primarily domestically produced, to a $2.4-trillion-a-year global behemoth” (Thomas 2019 p.12).

Source: Ellen Macarthur Foundation, 2017

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In addition to traditional retail stores, people have now access at any time to an unlimited number of online boutiques, each encouraging consumption with discount codes, special deals, and unique offers. Events such as “Cyber Monday” and “Black Friday” have been popularized allowing companies to stimulate their sales by lowering prices and pushing consumers to make impulsive decisions out of fear of missing out on good offers. But the fashion industry itself is not the only one to be blamed for this ecological disaster, consumers have an important part of responsibility as well. Because of their affordable price, clothes are not valued anymore, and people perceive them as disposable. Presently it has become a norm, and consumers do accept that cheap prices are synonyms of cheap quality, thus short life cycle (Anguelov 2015 p.128). Approximately 30% of people wardrobes have not been worn for at least a year (Nikolina 2019). The equivalent of one garbage truck full of clothes is burned or dumped in a landfill every second and 85% of all textiles are thrown away each year, this is enough to fill the Sydney harbor annually (McFall-Johnsen 2019).

2.2 Repercussions on the environment

Considered as the world's second most polluting industry right after the oil industry, (UN launches drive to highlight environmental cost of staying fashionable, 2019) fashion is a major threat to the environment. Today, to answer to a constantly growing demand, companies are drawing into the earth’s resources, polluting air, rivers, and oceans. From the growing of cotton to the customers’ hands and up to their final disposal, clothes are devasting the planet’s ecosystem.

The production of clothes starts with the farming of cotton. Cotton is a plant that requires a large amount of water in order to grow. It has been estimated that to produce one single t-shirt 2’720 Liters of water are needed. This is the equivalent of a human’s consumption of drinking water in three years (Benson 2018). In the past, this water-intensive agriculture has led to the Aral Sea disaster which was once the 4th largest lake in the world. Between 1960 and 1997, the sea shrunk so much that only 10% of its surface remained (Pinkstone 2018). Moreover, loads of pesticides and fertilizers are used to ensure good cotton harvest, damaging the soil fertility and increasing deforestation.

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Cotton is not the only primary resource used to produce fabric, “more than 60 percent of fabric fibers are now synthetics, derived from fossil fuels” (Schlossberg 2019) and this is the case of polyester, a man-made synthetic fabric developed to reduce production cost. Since 2000, its use is in constant growth outstripping the use of natural fiber such as wool and cotton. (figure 2) Not only the production of polyester

is problematic, but when washed, this synthetic material can release up to 700’000 microplastic fibers, therefore polluting unquantifiable sources of water (Tucker 2019). While ecologists fight to clean beaches and oceans from plastic detritus, most of the plastic in oceans is under the form of small fibers, invisible to the human eyes. Furthermore, microplastics are toxic to wildlife. After being discharged in water, is it likely that animals such as fishes ingest them. Ironically, those fishes will be eaten by humans. It has been estimated that each year an average person eats over 5’800 synthetic particles (Resnick 2018) (figure 3).

To keep prices of clothes as low as possible, numerous large companies have relocated their factories in developing countries, which often have low regulations regarding production methods and environment preservation. “Foreign investors preferred nations where the pollution effluents from textile manufacturing were relatively high and had a pattern of increase through the years. If rising pollution levels are perceived as signs of decreasing environmental regulatory rigor, then nations can increase their FDI (Foreign Direct Investment) attractiveness by continuously lowering their environmental

Figure 3: Estimated fibers released from wash and fiber loss from washing fabrics

Source: Resnick, 2018

Source: Cobine, Vicaire, 2016

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standards.” (Anguelov 2015) This lack of supervision from governments often results in inadequate and irresponsible behavior from manufacturers toward the local environment (Cobbing, Vicaire 2016).

To become ready to wear clothes, fabrics, and raw materials still have to go through numerous processes in factories (figure 4). These steps include spinning fibers, bleaching, dyeing, and washing. Through this process, approximately 8’000 synthetic chemicals are used (Benson 2018) and an important quantity of energy as well. As stated by the pulse of fashion this industry released 1.715 million tones of CO2 (Tucker 2019), degrading the quality of the air and causing health issues to workers. As mentioned previously, to be efficient the supply chain of the fashion industry require to be precise and relies on speed. To deliver products from factories to retails stores in record time, container ships are used. “Three-quarters

of goods enter the EU by sea, while 30 per cent of trade within the bloc goes by vessels […]”(Pooler, Keohane 2020). Using maritime transport to ship goods remains the cheapest way to deliver products. However, it has an environmental cost, and heavy fuel oil which is commonly used in maritime transportation is one of the worst polluting oil. During the journey, ships are releasing carbon dioxide polluting the atmosphere (Vairimaa 2019). From ports to cities, the remaining journey is usually carried by

trains and trucks, once again at the cost of the environment. After being purchased in stores by customers, fast fashion items go through numerous caring processes such as washing, drying, and ironing. Since those products were not made to last, they are quickly deteriorated and soon people do not wear them anymore, they then become disposable. While only 20% of produced clothes are recycled, the remaining 80% is likely to be incinerated or to end up in landfills (Loetscher 2017). In Europe only, out of the 80%, 24% is incinerated and the remaining 56% is disposed of in landfill (figure 5). In western countries, millions of tons of clothes are disposed of annually. Clothes are often sent in developing countries where regulatory standards in waste management are low.

Figure 4: Clothing value chain

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Clothes used to be of high quality, therefore when sent to developing countries it was still possible to re-sale them, unfortunately, due to the fast fashion, these garments are not suitable for sale anymore, therefore only a small quantity is reused. “In terms of toxicity, the two most ecologically damaging phases of the clothing life cycle disproportionately happen in the developing world. The first phase is the production of the clothes, which, […] is the most toxic and least addressed ecological problem in fashion economics. The second phase is the final discarding of used clothes, which decompose in developing world soil and waterways” (Anguelov 2015 P.114).

Source: Cobine, Vicaire, 2017

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2.3 Consumer behavior

From a customer point of view, fast fashion has many positives aspects; its diversity its availability as well as its affordability. All those benefits make fast fashion products highly appreciated and suitable for people in the middle and lower classes (Figure 6).

Nonetheless, such benefits can quickly lead to overconsumption, a study conducted by Greenpeace in 2017 pointed out that two-thirds of Hong Kong citizens admit owning more clothes than they actually need along with 60% of Chinese (Cobbing, Vicaire 2017). People are not consuming what they need anymore, but rather what they want (Baltaci 2018). Excluding globalization, recent changes in consumer behavior are predominantly due to advertisements, e-commerce, and social media. Advertisement plays a significant role in the purchase decision, as it creates a powerful association between consumption, and human emotions and aspirations. It manages to make consumers think that by buying more, they will reach aspirations such as happiness, success, and love, “According to Strähle […] fashion consumers often buy clothing due to the emotional need“ (Muthu 2019a p.12). Unfortunately, this excitement quickly fades away, as a large number of people experience guilt, boredom, and emptiness after shopping (Cobbing, Vicaire 2017), therefore creating an addictive behavior. Alongside advertisements, e-commerce, and social media also play important roles, they help to democratize fashion (Thomas 2019 p.159). From their personal devices, people can have access to fashion shows, and read blogs and reviews. Social media such as Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook allow them to scroll down infinitely, discovering new looks and buy goods in one click (figure 7).

Figure 6: Market segmentation of the fashion industry

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“Americans now spend more time on digital media than working or sleeping, and much of that time they are looking at or buying fashion. In 2017, apparel was the number two category in US e-retail sales, after consumer electronics. Globally, fashion e-commerce hit $481.2 billion in 2018. It is expected to reach about $713 billion by 2022” (Thomas 2019 p.159). The rise of social networks also engenders an increasing exposure of its users. According to a 2015 survey, out of 1500 women respondents, one in seven feels that social media influence their purchasing habits. The respondents suggested that being tagged on photos with the same clothes more than once was unacceptable, thus leading them to buy more apparel in the hope of appearing trendy (Muthu 2019b p.5-6). On the other hand, awareness toward environmental issues is growing and younger generations such as Gen Z are leading change in consumer buying behavior. In his book, Dr. Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu explains the relationship between knowledge and willingness to purchase sustainable apparel. Dr. Muthu, states that the level of consumers’ knowledge with regard to sustainability has a direct impact on purchase attitude and the higher the knowledge, the higher the willingness to consume sustainably will be (Muthu 2019c p.82-83). Researchers have been able to prove such change, as today “Nine in ten Generation Z consumers believe companies have a responsibility to address environmental and social issues.” (Balchandani, Beltrami, Berg, Hedrich, Rölkens, Amed 2019). Furthermore, a shift in consumers’ behavior can also be observed online, where according to Cheng between 2016 and 2019, searches for sustainable fashion tripled (Cheng 2019). In agreement with Cheng’s idea, the pulse of the fashion industry”, a 2019 report, stated that: “38% of consumers report actively switching from their preferred brand to another because it credibly stands for positive environmental and/or social practices.” Moreover, 42% indicated to take sustainability into account when shopping, while 7% affirmed that sustainability is a key criterion in their purchase

Figure 7: Retailers with active social media accounts

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decision (Lehmann, Arici, Boger, Martinez-Pardo, Krueger, Schneider, Carrière-Pradal, Schou 2019) ( figure 8).

This serious awakening is presumed to persist in the future, according to a 2019 study, “40% of surveyed millennials said they were planning to stop supporting fast-fashion brands, compared to an overall average of 31%.” (Driver 2019).

Source: Lehmann et al., 2019 Figure 8: Importance of sustainability for consumers

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2.4 Clothes consumption in Switzerland

In Switzerland, the apparel industry, as well as consumer behavior, differ from the rest of the world. For the past few years, the fashion market in Switzerland has been declining. The total sales of

2019 amounted to CHF 8.19 billion, which represents a decrease in sales of CHF 2.5 billion in eight years (Swiss fashion market again and again with headwind 2020) (figure 9).

With monthly spending on apparel estimated to CHF 202 in 2017 (Office fédéral de la statistique 2017), and an average of 16 kilograms of clothing purchased each year (Pidoux 2019) Swiss people are consuming fewer clothes than their neighbors in Europe. Aware of clothing disposal methods, the number of garments collected in Switzerland has increased by 3.2% between 2017 and 2018, reaching 55’438 tons (Swiss Recycling 2018) (table 1).

Source: GFK Switzerland AG, 2020

Figure 9: Market estimate fashion/shoes in Switzerland

Table 1: Amount of clothes collected in Switzerland between 2017 and 2018

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2.5 Sustainability

2.5.1 What is sustainable development?

Sustainable development:

“Development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.”

Gro Harlem Brundtland, 1987 Defined in: Our Common Future, a 1987 report written by the World Commission on Environment and Development (p41-43), sustainable development expresses the need to take accountability for developing a better world with today’s resources while considering the next generations’ future and the planet. The report indicates that to successfully implement sustainable development three elements should be taken into account: Economy, society, and environment. Such elements are connected, thus essential to well-being (Martin [no date]). Nonetheless, today’s definition of sustainability differs from one person to another. (Muthu 2019b p.21-22) People’s perception of sustainability depends on their level of education and their knowledge regarding the topic. A common idea is that sustainability refers mostly to the environment and recycling, which to some extent is true. However, such perception excludes social and economic aspects, two fundamental notions of sustainable development, and this example of omission can be exploited by companies (Muthu 2019b p.22).

As previously mentioned, the definition of sustainable development is based on three principles: Economy, society, and environment. The same three notions are at the core of John Elkington’s. Triple Bottom Line concept.“ […]The Triple Bottom Line is a sustainability framework that examines a company’s social, environment, and economic impact.”(Elkington 2018) It aims at encouraging businesses to track and manage added values resulting from these three categories (Elkington 2018). The framework implies the following:

 “Planet: the positive and negative impact an organization has on its natural environment. This includes reducing its carbon footprint, usage of natural resources, toxic materials and so on, but also the active removal of waste, reforestation and restoration of natural harm done”(Kraaijenbrink 2019).

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 “People: the positive and negative impact an organization has on its most important stakeholders. These include employees, families, customers, suppliers, communities, and any other person influencing or being affected by the organization” (Kraaijenbrink 2019).

 “Profit: the positive and negative impact an organization has on the local, national and international economy. This includes creating

employment, generating innovation, paying taxes, wealth creation and any other economic impact an organization has” (Kraaijenbrink 2019).

When applied properly, this framework can be a powerful indicator for companies desiring to identify areas where improvements are needed. Allowing them at the same time to evaluate progress. As a result, from a company’s point of view, obtaining satisfying results when assessing this framework can be a synonym of sustainable development.

Except that nowadays the framework is used by companies all around the world and its purpose has been diverted from its primary objective, prioritizing now profit. “The Economist has done another piece on the triple bottom line, which is nice, but they invert the 3Ps. Having come up with the TBL concept in 1994, I launched the 3Ps in 1995 as ‘People, Planet, Profit’. The Economist, by contrast, goes for “profit, people and planet” – which makes sense if you are them” (Elkington 2019). In addition, a large number of companies look primordially profit as financial profit rather than social and environmental benefits. This change in priority can confuse consumers, as the initial idea of the TPB framework is to develop and balance the three elements. Thus, to be reliable, companies performing well need to be examined closely to determine if a correct application of the framework has been done. The questionability regarding the application of the TBL framework being established, a doubt remains, what does sustainability in the fashion industry involve?

Source: Elkington, 2018 Figure 10: Triple Bottom Line

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2.11 What does sustainability imply in the fashion industry?

The environment being at the core of this research, social and economic issues are not addressed in this report. Nonetheless, the importance of those issues is acknowledged. To explore what sustainability implies in the fashion sector, this chapter is organized into five sections. The first section analyses the potential business models applicable. Following that, sourcing and, production and waste management are discussed. Finally, the two last sections address transparency and the end life of products.

2.11.1 Business model:

Sustainability is adopting better business models

Presently, the fashion industry is using a linear business model. This model is at the heart of the environmental matter since as previously explained, it is based on the following principles: Take, make, and dispose (Khusainova 2019).

Sharing economy

Since ever, people around the world have been sharing assets. Whether it is in families, small communities, or locally, lending available objects to help out is a custom. When the resource needed is not available in their direct surrounding, people tend to look further, thus seeking for the help of strangers. The development of the internet facilitated the meeting between asset owners and people searching for material resources. This type of relationship between individuals can be referred to as the sharing economy, also known as the collective economy. This business model is built on the principle that underused goods should be shared so that they can benefit to many people while avoiding acquiring costs. Besides, it allows owners to earn money by renting or selling their assets (Chappelow 2020). Business activities in the collective economy can be conducted under two dynamics: peer to peer (P2P), also known as consumer to consumer (C2C) or business to consumers (B2C). C2C activities usually rely on the use of online platforms, as they help assets’ owners to reach a greater audience. Whereas in B2B, companies usually provide a structure where business can be carried out. (Muthu 2019b p.9) With the rise of services such as Spotify and Netflix, today, ownership is being abandoned by consumers in many industries. People are ultimately more interested in having access to resources when needed, rather than owning them (Balchandani, Beltrami, Berg, Hedrich, Rölkens, Amed 2019). When it comes to environmental issues, this type of economy eases the limitation of people overconsumption, reduces the overall

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provides a solution for fast fashion consumers, offering diversity and the latest trends at a low price. Under both types of dynamic C2C and B2C, business activities can have different forms. In consumer to consumers activities swap events and private sales can be organized, while in business to consumers rental services and thrift stores can be implemented. All the mentioned examples are trendy and appealing to younger generations. According to research conducted in the United Kingdom, 52% of Millennials acquired second-hand clothes in 2019, and among the same group, 50% sold their unwanted clothes. In addition, 57% of Gen Z have either rented clothing or are interested in doing so (Halliday 2020). This type of business model is a good alternative to linear production as it satisfies consumers' desire for trendy garments, reduces production costs for companies, and finally, supports the preservation of the environment.

Circular economy

Recycling material is the first step toward the limitation of waste creation, albeit, on its own, it does not solve the problem. The generation of waste is only reduced, and raw materials are still used as primary sources of input. The circular economy, on the other hand, provides an adequate answer. Indeed, the idea behind the circular economy is to close the loop, therefore, avoiding any type of waste. “Circular economy aims to keep products, components, and materials at their highest utility and value, at all times.” (Beta-i 2019). This model is based on the 7R’s also known as seven pillars of the circular economy.

Rethink: By redesigning current business models and products’ purpose

Reduce: By applying lean designs methods and increasing the longevity of products Re-use: By practicing customer to customer (C2C) business

Repair: By repairing parts or components that can be saved Refurbish: By upcycling or giving a second life to products

Recover: By using energy efficiently and recovering materials used for energy generation

Recycle: By dismantling products components and using them to manufacture new goods (Beta-i 2019).

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Shifting from linear to a circular economy can represent an important challenge for companies. Changes necessary to implement this business model are difficult. Components of products need to be reconsidered as well as production methods. According to Vogue Business, out of the 213 goals set during the 2017 Copenhagen Fashion Summit, only 45 were achieved. This low performance demonstrates how laborious and demanding this task is. (Arnett 2019). Yet, it is not impossible, and signs of circular economy implementation are encouraging. Giants such as H&M and Adidas are planning to be circular by 2030. Additionally, the company Worn Again is developing techniques to reverse the manufacturing process of pure and mixed fabrics in order to regain original materials. Truly innovative, the company is working on licensing its technology so that other businesses in the industry can use it. With 1 million t-shirts sold in 2018, Teemill, a company manufacturing circular t-shirts for divers’ brands, is proving that the circular economy can be achieved at scale (Darbyshire 2019). Even though undertaking such change is complex, gains resulting from this adjustment are considerable. According to the European parliament, the circular economy could save EU companies up to €600 billion, create new jobs, secure raw materials, and reduce pressure on the environment to only mention a few benefits. Finally, consumers will also enjoy better quality products which will allow them to save money (European Parliament 2018).

Slow fashion

Inspired by the slow food movement, Kate Fletcher coined the term Slow Fashion (Hill 2018). Slow Fashion represents a responsible and ethical way of consuming clothes. It encourages people to buy less but better. Fast fashion consumers usually obtain satisfaction by buying in quantity at a lower price. In contrast, slow fashion consumers’ satisfaction results from buying goods thoughtfully and acquiring high-quality pieces. This model also encourages suppliers to adopt more ethical behavior (Muthu 2019b p.12-14). The specificity of slow fashion is that the clothes produced are timeless, they are not the result of ephemeral trends (Elena 2017).

The tree business model presented are suitable to solve issues emerging from fast fashion. Still, it is important to concede that they have to be implemented together. Presently they can’t answer the global demand on their own.

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2.5.1.1 Sourcing:

Sustainability is sourcing responsibly.

As the world population grows, the need for clothing is endless. In the long run, to provide enough goods, resources used in textile production need to be sourced consciously. In 2015, the world adopted the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), a framework providing guidance on the implementation of sustainable strategies (Berg, Hedrich, Ibanez, Kappelmark, Magnus, Seeger 2019). While some important apparel companies are already changing their conduct, many still have to enter the journey. Sourcing being at the start of clothes manufacture, when selecting materials, it is necessary to take their origin in consideration. The production of any material whether it is raw or synthetic will have an impact on the environment. Therefore, such repercussions must be acknowledged. Today, the abundance of apparel is such, that the limitation of newly sourced raw material should be applied, thus favoring recycled material (Loetscher 2017). In 2019, McKinsey & Company conducted a study of 64 sourcing executives. The study pointed out the low volume of clothing made out of sustainable materials. On the market, “products made with some organic cotton account for 3 percent of all products made from cotton. Only 2.3 percent of t-shirts offered on online shops are made with organic cotton and only 0.7 percent of jeans are made with recycled fibers.” (Berg, Hedrich, Ibanez, Kappelmark, Magnus, Seeger 2019). Yet, 55% of the participants expressed the willingness of their company to have by 2025 half of their products made from sustainable sources. Lastly, innovative materials and production methods can be exploited to fulfill the demand for sustainable clothes. Made of pineapple leaf fibers, Pinãtex is used as an alternative to leather. E-Skin, the potential next fabric for sportswear relies on Printed Circuit Fabric (PCF) and 3D printing. With the advancement of technology and the diversity of available resources, collaboration between fiber companies, manufacturers and fashion brands is expected to rise (Amed, Berg, Hedrich, Balchandani, Rölkens, Young, Poojara 2020).

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2.5.1.2 Production and management:

Sustainability is a balance between producing and managing resources and waste carefully.

“I think it is apparent to everybody right now that we have too much of everything— too many brands, and too many manufacturers consuming too much material and producing too much waste.” Edwin Keh, (Berg, Hedrich, Ibanez, Kappelmark, Magnus, Seeger 2019)

Mentioned earlier in this work, the fashion industry has disastrous consequences in terms of pollution and waste creation. The overproduction of apparel at low prices leads to a shorter life cycle of garments, resulting in overconsumption by consumers. But within the manufacturing process, many changes can be implemented to decrease and control negative repercussions on the environment. Managing the quantity of water used throughout the production and ensuring that substances used are safe, are part of the steps that need to be taken. To address this issue, giant sportswear companies such as Nike have developed new dying methods. ColorDy by Nike is a technology that enables the coloration of fabric without requiring water. Instead, the process relies on the use of CO2 to dye fabrics. Leader brands such as Patagonia, Levi’s and Adidas are also part of this revolution, promoting the use of waterless dyeing. (Loetscher 2017). The transition for new production processes is imperative. The industry needs processes that generate less waste, require fewer inputs of resources, and function with renewable energy. Aligning clothing design with recycling methods is a must (Ellen MacArthur Foundation 2017).

2.5.1.3 Transparency:

Sustainability is being transparent with customers so they can make better choices Where does this good come from? Is the cotton used Fairtrade? Does the production of this product involve any chemicals? Those are a few examples of questions customers may encounter when shopping. Product information is not always accessible to consumers. While respectively 42% of millennials and 37% of Gen Z would like to know more about what they are buying, the demand for transparency is swiftly increasing (Balchandani, Beltrami, Berg, Hedrich, Rölkens, Amed 2019). Around the world, firms are slowly using traceability systems to provide valuable information without compromising their competitiveness. According to McKinsey & Company 2019 report on

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publicly shared are not enough, and consumers are asking for radical transparency. It will certainly take time before most of the clothing companies display clear and authentic information. Nonetheless, the current exploitation of traceability systems such as RFID, Blockchain, and DNA tagging is rising and it is predicted to continue (Berg, Hedrich, Ibanez, Kappelmark, Magnus, Seeger 2019), therefore allowing consumers to make conscious purchase decisions (figure 11).

2.5.1.4 End life:

Sustainability is considering how products will be transformed and/or disposed of properly.

Not only retailers have to take accountability for the making process of apparel, but they also need to reflect on the afterlife of clothes. Whether they are recycled upcycled or disposed of. Creating structures that can manage adequately unwanted garments is necessary.

“Creating products that are made to be remade” (Flynn [no date])

This statement fully resonates with NuCycl. Developed by Evrnu, a textile innovations company, NuCycl is an engineered fiber. Not only this fiber is made of discarded clothes, but it is also unique because the fiber can be fully recycled and used again to create new

Source: Berg et al. 2019

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garments (Flynn 2019). Recently commercialized, the adoption of regenerated fibers is still ongoing, yet it is likely to become a solution to close the life cycle of unwanted apparel. (Farra 2019).

Recognizing the importance of accountability from the fashion industry is admitting half of the products’ end life issues. Consumers’ behavior is also part of the matter. By adopting better practices, such as carrying and repairing garments, the life cycle of clothes can be extended.

2.5.2 Alternatives to fast fashion

In order to encourage sustainable purchasing behavior, it is important to know how fast fashion can be replaced. This chapter aims at exploring the different alternatives currently available to customers.

2.5.2.1 Recycled clothing and innovative materials

The quantity of clothes recycled is lower compare to the number of clothes destroyed. Yet, the promotion of recycling programs is increasing. Many retailers are now displaying recycling bins within stores with the goal of inciting people to donate unwanted clothing. Popular brands H&M and Zara are also joining this movement, and offer collections made partially of recycled materials. Leader brands such as The North Face and Patagonia have taken a step further and propose a line of recycled products (Ruane 2019).

2.5.2.2 Upcycled clothing

Upcycling is the process of using discarded objects to create higher quality products. In the textile industry, pre-consumer and/or pro-consumer waste can be used as input to produce new items. Original materials such as plastic bottles are also suitable as a primary source to create yarns (Petro 2019). Repairing and refurbishing old clothing are also part of upcycling. The leader outdoor brand Patagonia offers a large choice of upcycled clothes made from their old garments (Amed, Berg, Hedrich, Balchandani, Rölkens, Young, Poojara 2020). Upcycling enables to extend products’ life while providing new items to customers.

2.5.2.3 Resale and Second-hand clothes

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appreciated, those online platforms provide an array of clothes, from vintage to last trends, making them appealing to a large audience (Young 2019) This purchase method is attracting all ages, but Millennials, as well as Gen Z, are driving the demand (figure 12). While the fast-fashion market is predicted to worth $44 billion by 2028, the fashion market for used clothes is expected to surpass it (Handley 2019). Over the past three years, resale has grown 21 times faster

than the retail market, and by 2023, the secondhand market is expected to reach $51 billion value (Thred Up 2019).

2.5.2.4 Swap

Popularized more recently, Swap events and platforms are places where individuals meet to exchange their unwanted garments. Easy to organize, such type of trade does not require a lot of structure or experience from participants. Swapping allows to acquire apparel for free and to prolongate their use. This type of alternative does not imply any form of production, thus it does not generate pollution. More than a simple form of business Swapping represents a social experience (Loetscher 2017).

2.5.2.5 Rental services

Clothing as a service is not new in the fashion industry. Initially developed to respond to the need for unique clothes for special events, this service has swiftly been developed to reach a larger number of people. This change happened approximately, ten years ago, when companies such as Rent the Runway were founded. Following the success of this new consumption model, many brands decided to develop their own rental service. Today, a large number of entities provide this service, allowing customers to enjoy new apparel without owning them. Rental services usually provide a monthly service in which customers can choose a certain number of items. After one month, clients have the possibility to either buy items they liked or to send them back to the company. If customers decide to buy an item, its price will be lower than the initial price. This system benefits customers in many ways: A large choice of apparel is available, the monthly fee is in general lower than the purchasing price of the same items and finally, there is no engagement in terms of purchase (McDowell 2019). As for the environment,

Source: Thred Up, 2019

Figure 12: Repartition purchase secondhand clothes by generation

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rental services contribute to the reduction of garments production and encourage higher production methods in order to offer greater clothes longevity (Fashion For Good, Accenture Strategy 2019).

3. Methodology

2.6 Type of research and goal

This research is a descriptive research, its goal is to understand the consumer behavior of students of the Haute École de Gestion de Genève toward sustainability in the fashion sector. Determining the level of awareness of students regarding the topic, as well as discovering which alternative would best suit them are part of the goals of this survey.

2.7 Research methods

To support the ideas expressed and the results obtained, several research methods were used:

Secondary data

The literature review is based on the collection of secondary data. Such data include books, press articles, webpages, and reports. Currently, sustainability and environmental issues are much discussed, thus a great number of researches are available. Secondary data were chosen considering the reliability of information as well as the publication date. Reports and articles published by reliable entities were favored to support the ideas mentioned in this study. In some cases, more searches about the authenticity of the authors as well as his/her background were made to ensure the credibility of the information.

Primary data:

To conduct this study, primary data were required. Such data were used to make deductions regarding the consumption behavior of the population and to support final recommendations. A survey was used to collect the data.

2.8 Survey

The survey used for this research was created with Google form and was available online. It is composed of a total of 13 questions and is designed to collect data regarding

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survey focuses on learning about consumers’ habits. Participants were asked about their purchase frequency, monthly spending on clothes, the place of purchase, the reason for acquiring new clothes, and important criteria when shopping. The second part of the survey aims at determining the level of awareness regarding the topic of the study. Finally, the third part of the survey addresses the end life of apparel and its disposal. The last part also intends to determine which alternatives are suitable for the population studied. The survey is displayed on the appendix number one.

2.9 Collection method

To reach the targeted population, digital channels have been used. The survey was first sent to participants through the mobile application WhatsApp. The common use of this mobile application among young people eased the sharing of the survey. By using such an application, it has been possible to select participants and ensure that they respond to the following criterion: Being a student at the HEG. After using WhatApp, a total of 46 answers were obtained. This number being too small, a different channel was required to gather more data. To reach a greater number of respondents Facebook was used in a second step. Facebook is a popular social media platform used by students. Looking at users’ details such as place of study helped to identify potential participants and send them a request. Furthermore, the platform creates associations between people and suggests “potential friends” based on place of work, place of study, cities, etc. This practice enabled me to reach more participants and to contact students that were not part of my private circle. Using Facebook to diffuse the survey allowed me to have control over the selection of the respondents. Thus, ensuring that all of them responded to the criterion. The use of digital channels as collection tools reduced the time dedicated to gathering data because the survey was shared instantly and most of the students who responded were willing to answer it shortly after receiving my message. The survey was available in French and English allowing participants to choose the language in which they were the most comfortable to answer. When translating specific English terms such as “Upcycling” an explanation was integrated into the French version of the survey, in order to facilitate the understanding of the question. Finally, the survey was available from the 24th_{of February 2020 to the 1}st_{of May 2020.}

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2.10 Population and sample

The target group studied in this research is students from the HEG, this population is composed primarily of Millennials and Gen Z. No restrictions were made regarding the gender, year of studies, or the program in which students were enrolled. A total of 71 people participated in the survey. Seven participants, who together represent 9.7% of the population sample were aged of 30 years old or more. Millennials referring to people born between the early ’80s to the mid 90’ (Barr 2019), the respondents were not excluded from the sample population.

2.11 Difficulties

The collection of primary data was complex as the survey was only conducted through personal circles. Such practices reduced the scope of the survey, thus the number of participants. Because of the limited size of the population sample, the interpretation of the results obtained was a delicate step as well.

2.12 Limitation of the survey

In 2018, the Haute École de Gestion de Genève had 1518 students enrolled (Haute école de gestion de Genève 2018). With 71 participants, this survey represents 4.67% of students. Consequently, it would be inadequate to only rely on this survey. Further researches are required to confirm the ideas and recommendations suggested in this study.

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3. Results

3.1 Analysis of results

Gender

The population sample counts 71 students. Women account for 68% of the respondent and men for 32%. The difference in gender participation can be explained by the repartition of gender in my personal circle. Since the survey was first shared through the mobile application WhatsApp, participants were selected among my private circle which is mostly composed of women. The communication of the survey on Facebook, allowed to increase the number of men participating.

Age

The sample population is categorized into three groups, 18 to 24 years old, 25 to 30 years old, and 30 years old and more. Ages groups were formed base on guidelines from the Pew Research Center. The center categorizes Gen Z as people born in 1997 and onward. Thus, people older than 23 years old are considered as Millennials (Barr 2019). Because Gen Z born in 1997 are turning 24 years old in 2020, I decided that the first group will include people who are 24 years old. Overall, participants are either Millennials or Gen Z. The graphic representation of the age groups illustrates the repartition of the population sample. Representing 55% of the sample

population, the largest group is composed of people between the age of 18 years old and 24 years old. The two other groups represent respectively 35% and 10% of the sample population.

32%

68%

Gender Repartition

Male Femal

Figure 13 : Gender repartition

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Purchase frequency

To define purchase frequency, students were asked to use a rating scale. They had to choose between the following 5 propositions: Very often (once a week), often (twice a month), sometimes (once a month), rarely (less than once a month) and never. With 71% of answers, the two most selected choices were rarely and sometimes. Only 4% of students make clothing purchases once a week, and 1% do not buy apparel at all.

Purchase location

The top three locations where students buy their clothes are:

• Mainstream retailers such as H&M, Zara, etc • Online stores

• Second-hand stores

This ranking can be explained by the presence of numerous popular brand stores in Switzerland. In addition, fashion apparel is one of the popular categories of products bought online by Swiss people (J-P. Morgan 2018). Among the most frequented locations, only second-hand stores are considered to be sustainable. In the category

4% 24% 31% 40% 1%

Purchase frequency

Very often Often Sometimes Rarely Never

0 10 20 30 40 50 60

Mainstream retailers Online Store Second hand stores Swap Rental services Mobil applications Other

Purchase location

Figure 15 : Purchase frequency

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because it is a supermarket that is originally specialized in food. Furthermore, even though clothes are available at Migros, they do not fall under the category of fast fashion clothes. Surprisingly, purchases on mobile applications are ranked fourth. While the use of such practice is more common around the world, according to researches only 3% of Swiss people use their smartphone to make a purchase. The device is rather used to consult information about products (J-P. Morgan 2018). Finally, the last two purchase locations are Swap events and rental services.

Average spending

More than half of participants spend between 0 and CHF100 when shopping for garments. This repartition can partially be explained by the precedent graphic “purchase location”. The top three purchase locations of the students all provide clothing items with relatively low prices, thus, allowing them to spend less money. Moreover, part of the students who participated in the study are Gen Z. Described as price-sensitive, this generation is unwilling to spend too much money and would rather have savings.

65% 28% 7% 0 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 0-100 CHF 100-200 CHF 200-300 CHF 300+ CHF

Average spending in clothes

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Purchase motive

Among the 71 participants, the main reason for buying new clothes varies. Yet, it is possible to identify three clear motives.

The first motive is the need for new clothes. Here it is implied that the student needs a certain type of clothing for a specific reason. For example, buying a winter coat for the cold season.

Sale periods are the second motive for the acquisition of clothes. This behavior is explained by the price sensitivity of both, Millennials and Gen Z. Furthermore, it can also be linked to the fear of missing out (FOMO) created by fashion, where consumers are pushed to consume goods immediately. Here the fear would be to miss out on great value prices.

Finally, the third motive is “No reasons”. This category describes a more impulsive purchase behavior, in which the student wants to reward himself by shopping. While the first purchase motive is part of the physiological needs describes in Maslow’s pyramid, the two others are results from today’s society overconsumption.

7,04% 13,15% 10,80% 24,88% 20,66% 21,60% 1,88% 0,00% 5,00% 10,00% 15,00% 20,00% 25,00% 30,00% New trend Old Clothes Damaged clothes Fulfill a need Sale periods No particular reason Other

Purchase motive

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Perception of the notion of sustainability

81% of the population sample acknowledges the importance of sustainability. Environmental issues are considered as serious matters in Switzerland, and students around the country are becoming more sensitive to the topic. They are advocating for the environment and want to create a change. In January 2019, several climate change manifestations were held in 15 Swiss cities by students (RTS info 2019). This high rate correlates with previous researches conducted among Millennials and Gen Z, in which the importance of sustainability has been determined (Balchandani, Beltrami, Berg, Hedrich, Rölkens, Amed 2019).

Awareness toward fast fashion impact on the environment

Less than half of the students are fully aware of the impact of fast fashion on the environment. 51% have limited knowledge and the remaining 10% is not aware at all. Knowing that 81% of the participants consider sustainability as an important matter and taking into consideration that the fashion industry is the second most polluting industry in the world, these results are surprising. In addition, for the past few years, countless reports and articles have been published regarding this problem.

Figure 19 : Importance accorded to sustainability

Figure 20 : Level of awareness regarding impact of the fashion industry on the environment

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Inclusion of sustainable choices during the purchase decision

Only one-third of the respondents are considering sustainable aspects during their purchase decision. Based on the answers provided, the majority of participants are aware of the repercussion of the fashion industry on the environment. Nonetheless, only one-third of students will recognize it when buying clothes. This controversial behavior raises the following questions: Is the environmental manner a real concern for students from the HEG? If yes, what are the reasons for not taking real measures when buying apparel?