International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM) stikiness WG Introduction : ICCT-ITMF stickiness working group bremen march 2012

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(1)International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM) Stickiness WG Introduction GOURLOT Jean-Paul Bremen March 2012 Bremen, CIRAD UPR102 Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation des fibres naturelles.

(2) Agenda of the ITMF-ICCTM meeting Stickiness WG/TF Gourlot J.-P., CIRAD International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) (ITMF), International Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM), Stickiness WG, Introduction, bibliography and latest information Harzallah O., ENSISA LPMT Peel test: A Tool to Assess the Stickiness of honeydew y Sugar Latif A., SCC L Long term b benefit fi off a CFC/ICAC project: j global improvement of the situation.

(3) Plan of presentation. I t d ti Introduction Stickiness: origins Stickiness: Stickiness: measurement.

(4) Introduction. The challenge for cotton today. To remain competitive with synthetic fibers. To maintain acceptable profitability in production. Reduction of the production and processing costs.

(5) Introduction. The challenge for cotton today Cotton fiber stickiness. Defects / Disruptions of the spinning processes Trader. Classer. Researcher. Spinner p. Producer. P i di Price discountt Additional operations. Higher spinning cost Lower yarn quality.

(6) Plan of presentation. I t d ti Introduction Stickiness: origins Stickiness: Stickiness: measurement.

(7) Origins of stickiness APHIDS. Vegetal parts. Oil traces. Stickiness. Waxes. Plant sugars. Insect sugars. WHITEFLIES.

(8) Origins of stickiness Mature boll covered with honeydew.

(9) Origins of stickiness Mature boll covered with honeydew.

(10) Origins of stickiness. Main sugars (in %) determined by HPLC in aphid, whitefly and aleurod honeydew, h harvested t d on G. G hirsutum hi t. Polysaccharides Sucrose Trehalulose Melezitose. Insect. Monosaccharides. Aphis gossypii. 25. 12. 1. 38. 19. 16. 44. 17. 44. 33. 3. 0. Bemisia B i i tabaci Ti l Trialeurodes d abutilonea. Source Hendrix et al., 1992.

(11) Origins of stickiness. • Th The mostt important i t t cause off stickiness ti ki is i due d to t these entomological sugars. • Honeydew has now become one of the main contaminants p present in cotton. • Sticky points remain in the cotton from the field up to the h spinning i i processes where h they h cause production d i and quality losses. • The behavior of contaminated fibres during processing p g is highly g y dependent p upon p the q quantity y and the type of the main sugars present in fibres.

(12) Plan of presentation. I Introduction d i Stickiness: origins Stickiness: measurement.

(13) Stickiness measurement Simple. Perkins Fehling Color reaction KOTITI. Chemical methods Complex p. HPLC GC. Physical techniques. Infra-red. Mechanical. Mini-card. ITMF Reference method SCT. ITMF Recommended method. H2SD FCT / FQT. Thermo-mechanical. Quickspin.

(14) Latest information ITMF - ICCTM 2011. Thanks to M. Christian Schindler, ITMF.

(15) Latest information ITMF - ICCTM 2011. • Conclusion of Cotton Contamination survey y « Stickiness – significant rise Th presence off sticky The ti k cotton tt as perceived i d by the spinning mills increased in 2011 significantly from the record low 16% in 2009 to 20%. While this level is still lower than the long-term average, the level of stickiness is still considerable high and remains a major challenge to the global cotton spinning i d t » industry..

(16) Update of bibliography g y on stickiness Causes, measurements and consequences. GOURLOT J.-P. J P ICCTM-ITMF, Stickiness WG Bremen, March 2012 CIRAD UPR102 Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation des fibres naturelles.

(17) Introduction of the bibliography • In order to allow everyone to learn more about this contamination, we decided to prepare this extract of the available literature. We retained around 233 references out of thousands of available references, focusing on the cause of stickiness, on the possible means of evaluation and/or measurement and on major consequences during fibre processing. p on measurements only y are added to the list • Papers since 2010. • The bibliography now covers a period going from the 1960’s to 2012..

(18) Observation. Number of documents on stickiness Number of documents on stickiness 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0.

(19) Observation. Number of documents on stickiness Number of documents on stickiness 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0.

(20) Trend in stickiness results along time CIRAD results. Small. Medium. In average: around 750 samples/year. Large.

(21) PDF file. CIRAD UPR102 Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation des fibres naturelles.

(22) Thanks for attention … and suggestions. CIRAD UPR102 Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation des fibres naturelles.

(23) International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM) Stickiness WG Latest information GOURLOT Jean-Paul Bremen March 2010 Bremen, CIRAD UPR102 Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation des fibres naturelles.

(24) Latest information ITMF - ICCTM 2010. SYDEL SA SA, M Montpellier, t lli F France: closed l d KOTITI method: ISO standard under preparation Manufacture of SCT and of H2SD by Prodev System 199 rue Hélè Hélène BOUCHER Parc Mermoz 34170 C Castelnau t l L Le L Lez France E il contact@prodev-system.fr Email: t t@ d t f.

(25) Thank you for your attention y. CIRAD UPR102 Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation des fibres naturelles.

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