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Changing Faces of Nepal.

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90

S. von dcr HEIDE cd.,

Changing Faces of Nepal.

The Glory of Asia's Past,

Kathrnandu, Ratna Pustak Bhandar (for the UNESCO Division of Cultural Heritage and !:Urnal Asia), 1997.

REVlEW BY GERARD TOFFIN

This book is Ihe calalogue of an exhibition held al UNESCO (Paris), 1997-1998, of pholos concerning old Kathmandu Valley. Some sixty photographs, mostly 16 x 20 cm, arc reproduccd. They were lakcn by Ihe Citra·

kars of Bhimsen Slhan (Kathmandu) from the begin·

ning of the twentieth century onward. The oldest ones dale from 1909, the most receOl (the royal wedding procession of the then Crown Prince Birendra Bir Bikram Shah Dcv) from 1970. As explained in Ihe valuable introduction written by Susanne von der Heide. the membcrs of this family of Ihe southern pan of the capilal belong to the Newar caSle of painters and may be considered as Ihe pioncers of early pholography in Nepal. They were employed from early times by the Rana rulers and other powcrfu families. One of them.

Dirga Man (1877-1951), even had the chance 10 travel to Europe in 1908 wilh Chandra Shamsher and 10 buy some English and German cameras. Such an associa- lion with rulers was not exceptional. Another Cilrakar of Kalhmandu, Bhaju Man, fonned pan of the entoura- ge during Jang Bahadur's trip 10 England and France in

1850. He was the firsl Newar artisl to Iravel to Ihe West These Cilrakar artists were oftcn painters as well.

Most of them set up pM vale studios in the capital.

Broadly speaking, the photos can be divided inlo four categories. I) Monuments: the pictures of important Rana palaces (La I Durbar, Sela Durbar, Singha Dur- bar). from inside and outside, arc already well known to specialisls and often displayed in Kalhmandu For tourists and travellers. Views of religious monuments:

Taleju lemple of Kathmandu (191 I), Bhaktapur (1915) and Lalitpur (1920) Durbar square, Bhimsen lemple in Kathmandu (1928), Nasal Chowk inside of Hanuman Dhoka Palace (1916), Bodnalh slupa (1913), etc., arc also numerous. A large number of them were taken immedialely before Ihe devastating eanhquake of 1934.

They arc thereFore of greal interest. 2) Portraits of Ranas, Shahs, and olher officials. These phOIOS, often already published in variou books. recall the pictures of Rana families taken by the British photographers residing in India such as Bourne and Sheperd of Cal- cutta. There arc most fascinating. One never tires of looking at these self-assured faces, manial moustaches, contemptuous attitudes and extravagant clothes. 3) Official and State ceremonies: These photographs arc of exceptional interest, for example the pholo on page 82 shows the visit of King Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev 10 Bhimsen lemple in Kathmandu with representa- tives of the Malla family in 1962, and page 84 shows the then Crown Prince Birendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev at his bralllballdha ceremony in April 1963. Mosl of

them arc 10 my knowledge published here for Ihe firsl time. 4) Cilfakars of Kathmandu and Newar life: Ihe collection is smaller bUI of great value, i.eo, pp. 80-81, pictures of the Citrakar family of Bhimscn Slhan with feslive dress and gorgeous ornaments. Page 43. Ihe pholography of Ihe samyak in Yaklha Bahal, Kathman- du, laken around 1920, is remarkable. I have never seen it before. Unfonunalely, the Buddha statues arc nOI visible. Besides their anistie qualilY and charm.

these pictures are precious records of living history.

They are unique anthropological documents for the study of Nepalcse traditional or neo-classical architec- ture, Rana rule and Ihe past life of Ihc Kalhmandu Val- ley. It is hoped that other private archives of glass plates will be disclosed in the future and more official photographs from Narayanhili or Hanuman Dhoka royal palaces will be published.

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