TEXTILE AND GARMENT MAGAZINE
Special issue
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--SCIENTIFIC
ENGINEERING
UN ION OF TEXTILE,
GARMENT AND
LEATHER
BOOK OF ABSTRACTS
NATIONAL TEXTILE
CONFERENCE - 2017
ISSN 1310-912X www.tok.fnts.bg '" ��.... .... 1·m-··
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� � � � � BOOK OF ABSTRACTS � � �
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NATIONAL TEXTILE
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CONFERENCE-2017
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� � � Editor's �� Assoc. Prof. Ivelin Rahnev, TU - Sofia �
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� Prof. Hristo Petrov, TU - Sofia �
� Prof. Maya Bogdanova, NAA - Sofia �
� Prof. Rossica Betcheva, UCTM - Sofia �
� Prof. Jean-Yves Drean, ENSISA - Mulhouse, France �
� Prof. Andreas Charalambus, TU - Sofia �
� Prof. Diana Germanova-Krasteva, TU - Sofia �
� Assoc. Prof. VU Thi Hong K.hanh, HUST - Hanoi, Vietnam �
� Assoc. Prof. Anna Georgieva, UCTM - Sofia �
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Assoc. Prof. Zlatina Kazlatcheva, FTT - Yambol �� Assoc. Prof. Snejina Andonova, SWU - Blagoevgrad �
� Assoc. Prof. Rumen Russev, FTT - Yambol �
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Assoc. Prof. Stela Baltova, IBS - Botevgrad �� Dr. Maria Spasova, IP-BAS, Sofia �
� Dr. Nezabravka Popova-Nedyalk.ova, NBU - Sofia �
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� HAYqHQ-TEXHWIECKH Cl>I03 ITO TEKCTHJI, OiiJIEKJIO H KO)l{Jf www.tok.fnts.bg
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� HH no ,Zll(C: BG 121111930 ISSN 1310-912X8
� CMenra IBAN: BG43 UNCR 9660 1010 6722 008
� A.z.pec ua p�aKo;HBTa: �
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� Address:1000 Sofia, Bulgaria, 108 G. S. Rakovski str., tel. +359 2 980 30 45 �
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SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE
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� of the 19th National Textile Conference, Gabrovo, Bulgaria, October 25-2th 2017 �
� � � � � � � � � � � � � HONORABLE MEMBERS � � � � �
� 1. Prof. Ivan GEORGIEV, PhD, TU - Sofia, chairman of the Conference �
� 2. Prof. Nikolay SIMEONOV, D.Sc., UCTM - Sofia �
� 3. Prof. Iliya RASHKOV, D.Sc., corr.-member of BAS - Sofia, IP - BAS - Sofia � � 4. Prof. Philipp PHILIPPOV, D.Sc., TU - Sofia, corr.-member ofBAS - Sofia �
� 5. Prof. Margarita NEZNAKOMOVA, PhD, TU - Sofia �
� 6. Assoc. Prof. Anna GEORGIEVA, PhD, UCTM - Sofia �
� � � � � � � FOREIGN MEMBERS � � � � �
� 7. Prof. Jean -Yves DREAN, D.Sc., UHA-ENSISA-LPMT, Mulhouse, France �
� 8. Prof. Dr Savvas VASSILIADIS, Piraeus University of Applied Sciences, Piraeus, Greece �
� 9. Prof. Dr. Yordan Kyosev, Hochschule Niederrhein, , M6nchengladbach, Germany �
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10. Prof. Dr Bobby JOSEPH, St. John's Medical College, Bangalore, Indiaij
:o: 11. Assoc. Prof. VU Thi Hong Khanh, PhD, HUST - STLF, Ha Noi, Vietnam :o:
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12. Assoc. Prof. Dr Georgios PRINIOTAKIS, Piraeus University of Applied Sciences, Piraeus, Greece �ga 13. Dr Gaetano RIMINI,
11E. Miroglio11 EAD - $liven
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� RESPONSIBLE REVIEWERS FOR THE SCIENTIFIC PROGRAM �
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� ,14. Prof. Hristo PETROV, PhD, TU - Sofia
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� 15. Prof. Peter PETROV, D.Sc., IE - BAS - Sofia �
� 16. Prof. Diana GERMANOVA-KRASTEVA, PhD, TU - Sofia17. Prof. Maya BOGDANOVA, NAA- Sofia
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� 18. Prof. Vmroni POPNEDELEV, NAA- Sofia �
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19. Prof. Emiliya PANAYOTOVA, PhD, NBU - Sofia �� 20. Prof. Andreas CHARALAMBUS, PhD, TU - Sofia �
� 21. Assoc. Prof. Radostina ANGELOVA, D. Sc., TU - Sofia
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22. Assoc. Prof. Stela BALTOVA, PhD, IBS - Botevgrad �� 23. Assoc. Prof. Zlatina KAZLACHEVA, PhD, Trace University of Stara Zagara
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� 24. Assoc. Prof. Snejina ANDONOVA, PhD, SWU - Blagoevgrad
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� 25. Assoc. Prof. Krassimir DRUMEV, PhD, TU - Gabrovo
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STUDY OF BIJECTIVE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN
THE SINGLE AND BUNDLE COITON FIBER
MECHANICAL PROPERTIES
Jun-Yval DREAN'., . Wafa MAHJOU81, Omar HAAZALLAH1, Cuar SEGOVIA1,
Jun-Paul GOURLOT
1L.aboratoire de Physique et Mecanique Textiles, Mui house, France 2centre d'Essais Textile Lorrain, Epinal, France
'Centre de coop�ratton lnternatlonale en recherche agronomlque pour le dt:Weloppement, ontpelier, France
bundele-mail: [email protected]
The chamcteri7.8tion of cotton fib« is very complex due to the growing and harvesting conditions of the cotton plant. It is Ver'J important for breeders to undtntand the relationships that may exist between spccifie fibcr properties, overall :fi.bCI' quality and yam quality. All of these factors intaaet and arc eritical to the developmmJt of cottons that can eompm in a global market UndeIBtanding1hc,se intamctions will allow breeders to more efl'eetivelyuse :fi'ber data for selection purposes 1o improve yam quality.
In this paper,. we will focus on the-relationships between fibers1 mechanical properties and yams1 ones by dudying their relative behmor and the mationship between single cotton fihers and cotton fiber bundlca.
F ortbis purpose, 1hree dill"eren.t types or cotton fibers will be studied. These cottons were chosen from a list of twelve cottons covering a large panel of varieties and physical properties as maturity,, fineness,
micronain,, � c,tc,.. . as mown in Figun,& l and 2. Clas1ificatioru1 per lmigtb clasH1& and linear
densi1ies will be done in orderto Clllarge the scale when making plant selection .
.Analogical models based on springs, dashpots. e1emmts. as kelvin Voigt models will be pn:sented for � length elau for single :6.bcrs and :fiber bundles in order to provide additional information on their bebavior. 'With single fiber analogieal modeb and fiber bundle analogical models, a rc,lation&hlp linking these two model& will be studied. This relationship should be a bijective relationship.
Properties evaluated will include elonption, single and bundle tenacities, work of�
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Fiber bundles quality will bean effective tool in predicting yam quality and spinning performances. z
. lgure.l It city u. _litronme ror d1:e 1. cotton
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'figure� .... Length. lI .1icro111ir, f,, the L •