HAL Id: dumas-03034188
https://dumas.ccsd.cnrs.fr/dumas-03034188
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La marque Supreme, ou l’industrie contre-culturelle
Quentin Ronceray
To cite this version:
Quentin Ronceray. La marque Supreme, ou l’industrie contre-culturelle. Sciences de l’information et de la communication. 2018. �dumas-03034188�
Master professionnel
Mention : Information et communication Spécialité : Communication Marque Option : Marque, innovation et création
La marque Supreme, ou l’industrie contre-culturelle
Responsable de la mention information et communication Professeure Karine Berthelot-Guiet
Tuteur universitaire : Clotilde Chevet
Nom, prénom : RONCERAY Quentin Promotion : 2017-2018
Soutenu le : 11/09/2018
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Harriet Worsley, 100 idées qui ont transformé la mode, Paris, Seuil, 2011, p. 182.
2
www.supremenewyork.com/about 3
Benoît Heilbrunn, La Marque, Paris, PUF, 2007. 4
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5
Michel de Certeau, Culture au pluriel, Paris, Seuil, 1993 (1ère ed: 1974). 6
Andy Bennett, Pour une réévaluation du concept de contre-culture, Volume!, Vol. 9, Editions Mélanie Seteun, 2012. 7
Theodore Roszak, Vers une contre-culture, Paris, Stock, 2001 (1ère ed: 1969) 8
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Olivier Voirol, Retour sur l’industrie culturelle, Réseaux, n°166, Lausanne, Lavoisier, 2011. 10
Jean Baudrillard, Cool memories - 1980-1985, Paris, Galilée, 1987. 11
Guillaume Erner, Sociologie des tendances, Paris, PUF, 2009. 12
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Yves Jeanneret, Critique de la trivialité - Les médiations de la communication, enjeu de pouvoir, Paris, Éd. Non Standard, 2014. p.15. 16
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Benoît Heilbrunn, La Marque, Paris, PUF, 2007. 20
'&" <'" .$" 1*-&('C12.&2('" )*2(" )(*<2,('" %*-" '%&F4&,=2'" '&" $,-%," %'" )*%,&,*--'(" 1*00'" $1&'2(7"(464-4($&'2("'&"12($&'2("<'"12.&2('Y"
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21
Harriet Worsley, 100 idées qui ont transformé la mode, Paris, Seuil, 2011, p. 183.
22
James Jebbia is Supreme, interview de James Jebbia par Glenn O’Brien pour Interview Magazine, publiée le 18 février 2009.
23
.'"02("<2"0$6$%,-")$(,%,'-P^Y"M,-%,7".B$&&$1F'0'-&"-$,%%$-&"<'"k$0'%"k'99,$")*2(".'" %5$&'9*$(<")(*@,'-<($,&"<'".B,<4$."('9'..'"$2=2'.",."('-@*,'Y" " " r,6Y"!"" " 8*2("0,'2`"1*0)('-<('"1*00'-&".'"%5$&'9*$(<"'%&"<'@'-2"1$&$.X%'2("<'"1'&",<4$." ('9'..'7" ,." '%&" ,-&4('%%$-&" <'" %'" ).*-6'(" <$-%" %*-" F,%&*,('" )(*+*-<'Y" A'" %5$&'9*$(<" '%&" .B2-'" <'%" )($&,=2'%" +$,%$-&" )$(&,'" <'%" g%)*(&%" <'" 6.,%%'hPaY" 3," .B*-" ('0*-&'" c" .$" 6'-d%'" <'" 1'&" '%)(,&" <'" .$" 6.,%%'7" -*2%" ('&*09*-%" <$-%" .'%" $--4'%" !WaQ7" %2(" .'%" ).$6'%"<'":$.,+*(-,'Y":'&"'%)(,&"'%&",-1$(-4")$(".'%"%2(+'2(%7"%*,'-&"<'%"%)*(&,+%7"0$,%" $2%%," '&" %2(&*2&" <'%" g0$(6,-$2`7" '&" <'%" ('9'..'%" %*1,$2`hP_Y" :'%" )'(%*--'%" 0$-,+'%&'-&" 2-" )(*+*-<" ('i'&" <'" .$" %*1,4&4" <'" 1*-%*00$&,*-" $04(,1$,-'7" )$(&,'" ,-&46($-&'" <'" .BhM0'(,1$-" b$X" *+" .,+'hY" M.*(%" =2'" .'" %)*(&" 4&$,&" 2-" 0*<d.'" <B,-&46($&,*-7".'%"%2(+'2(%"+*-&"<'".'2(")($&,=2'"2-"%X09*.'"<B'`1.2%,*-"@*.*-&$,('"<'" .$" %*1,4&47" 1*-&'%&$-&" ($<,1$.'0'-&" .'%" @$.'2(%" <*0,-$-&'%" <2" %)*(&YPR" l$-%" .$" 1(4$&,*-" <'" -*2@'$2" %*1.'" <*1&(,-$.7" .'%" )(,-1,)'%" <2" %)*(&" 0*<'(-'7" <4+,-,%" )$(" M..'-" G2&&0$-7" '&" .B,<4$." 1*29'(&,-,'-" %*-&" ('0,%" '-" 1$2%'" )$(" g1'%" %)*(&%" %B,-%1(,@$-&" <$-%" .'" 1*2($-&" 1*-&('C12.&2('." =2'" .B*-" $" )2" -*00'(" .$" %'-%,9,.,&4"
24
Voir Annexes 1 et 3. 25
Sébastien Cretin, La transmission des savoirs du skateboard à l’épreuve des nouvelles technologies de l’information et de la
communication, Vol.1,Thèse doctorante, 2007.
26
Craig Stecyk, David Carson, Surf Culture: The Art History of Surfing, Gingko Press, 2002. 27
$.&'(-$&,@'hPSY"Ac"*y".'"%)*(&"0*<'(-'"$"2-"1$($1&d('"h%412.,'(7"46$.,&$,('7"%)41,$.,%47" ($&,*--'.7"92('$21($&,=2'0'-&"*(6$-,%47"=2$-&,+,47"'&"c".$")*2(%2,&'"<'"('1*(<%hPW7".'" %2(+" ('i'&&'" .'" )(,-1,)'" <'" 1*0)4&,&,*-7" <'" ('1*(<%7" <B$(9,&($6'7" *2" &*2&'" +*(0'" <B,-%&,&2&,*-" )*2(" +$@*(,%'(" .B$2&*C(462.$&,*-" '&" .B$02%'0'-&Y" :'&" 4&$&" <B'%)(,&" ('i*,-&" ,-<,('1&'0'-&" 1'.2," <41(,&" )$(" .$" %*1,*.*6,'" <'" .$" <4@,$-1'Y" 3," .B*-" %'" (4+d('" $2`" 4&2<'%"<BI*b$(<">'15'&&"%2(".'"%2i'&7"*-"*9%'(@'"2-"0*<d.'",<4*.*6,=2'"%,0,.$,('"c" 1'.2,"<'%"02%,1,'-%"<'"i$oo7"*y".'%",-<,@,<2%"(4)*-<'-&"c"<'%"1(,&d('%"<B$))(41,$&,*-" '&"2-'"F,4($(1F,'"=2,".'2("'%&")(*)('[QY"8*2(".'%"%2(+'2(%"1*00'")*2(".'%"i$oo0'-7".$" -*-C$))$(&'-$-1'"c"<'%"1*-@'-&,*-%")(44&$9.,'%"%2++,&")*2("q&('"1*-%,<4(4%"1*00'" 0$(6,-$2`")$(".B'-&,d('&4"<'".$"1*002-$2&47"%)*(&,@'"*2"02%,1$.'Y" " A'"%5$&'9*$(<"'%&",%%2"<'".$")($&,=2'"<2"%2(+"'&"('-@*,'"c"1'"0q0'",<4$."('9'..'Y"L4" <B2-" i*2(" %$-%" @$62'7" <'%" %2(+'2(%" 1$.,+*(-,'-%" '2('-&" .B,<4'" <'" 6('++'(" <'%" (*2'%" +,`4'%"c"2-"$`'"%2(".'2(").$-1F'Y"A'"%5$&'9*$(<7"*2"g(*..C%2(+h"@,'-&"<Bq&('"1(44Y"M2"+,." <2" &'0)%7" .$" )FX%,*.*6,'" <2" %5$&'9*$(<" 4@*.2'7" .'%" ).$-1F'%" %B$++,-'-&7" %'" ($11*2(1,%%'-&7" .'%" (*2'%" '-" +'(" <'@,'--'-&" (*2'%" '-" )*.X2(4&F$-'Y" A'" g(*..C%2(+h" <'@,'-&"g%,<'b$.5"%2(+9*$(<hY"M+,-"<'"%,02.'(".'%"1*-<,&,*-%"<'"6.,%%'"$=2$&,=2'7".'%" )('0,'(%" %5$&'2(%" <'" .$" &'$0" m')FX(" <'" K'-,1'7" 35,)" J-69.*07" k'++" I*" '&" :($,6" 3&'1X57" <41,<'-&" <B,-@'%&,(" .'%" ),%1,-'%" <2" @*,%,-$6'7" @,<4'%" )$(" .$" %41F'('%%'" <'" !WR_Y" :'&" 4),%*<'" '%&" ('.$&4" <$-%" .'" +,.0" A*(<%" *+" l*6&*b-" =2," ,..2%&('" &(d%" 9,'-" .$" 0'-&$.,&4"<'%"%5$&'2(%"<'".B4)*=2'7"0$(=24'")$(".$").$6'7".'"0*2@'0'-&"9'$&-,5"'&" .$"1*-&'%&$&,*-"%*1,$.'Y"H(d%"@,&'7"*-"$%%*1,'".'"%5$&'9*$(<"'&"%'%")($&,=2$-&%"c"<'%" i'2-'%"<4.,-=2$-&%"<4&(2,%$-&".'%"9,'-%")(,@4%"'&")29.,1%Y":'")(,-1,)'"<'"<'%&(21&,*-7" g35$&'" $-<" l'%&(*Xh" <'@,'-&" <B$,..'2(%" .$" <'@,%'" <2" 14.d9('" HF($%F'(" #$6$o,-'7" =2," 1*-&(,92'" c" +$,('" )'(<2('(" .B,<4$." <2" %5$&'2(" ('9'..'Y" 32)('0'" 1*..$9*('($" <B$,..'2(%" $@'1".'"0$6$o,-'"'-"PQ!_7")('2@'"<2".,'-"=2,"2-,&".$"0$(=2'"c"%*-"*(,6,-'Y"
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28
Yves Pedrazzini, Rollers & skaters : sociologie du hors piste urbain, Paris, L’Harmattan, 2001, p.12 29
Allen Guttman, From Ritual to Record: the Nature of Modern Sport, New York, 1978. 30
c" .B'%)$1'" )29.,1[!Y" l4+,-,'" 1*00'" g)($&,=2'" $-$(1F,%$-&'" <'" .B'%)$1'" )29.,1h[P" )$(" N@'%" 8'<($oo,-,7" .'" %5$&'2(" %B$))(*)(,'" .$" (2'7" X" )($&,=2'" .$" 1(,&,=2'" <'" .B2(9$-,%0'" '&7",-<,('1&'0'-&7".B$2&*(,&4"<'".BJ&$&7"%,".B*-"%'"(4+d('"c".$"<4+,-,&,*-"<'".B'%)$1'")29.,1" )$(" kx(6'-" I$9'(0$%[[Y" J-" '++'&" ,." <4&*2(-'" 1*0).d&'0'-&" .$" +*-1&,*-" *(,6,-'..'" <'" .B2(9$-,%0'7" 6$($-&,%%$-&" .B*(<('7" .$" 1,(12.$&,*-" <'%" +.2`7" '-" <4+,-,%%$-&" .B'%)$1'" 1*00'"%*-")(*)('"&'(($,-"<'"i'2Y"J-"1*-%4=2'-1'7"<'"-*09('2%'%"@,..'%",-&'(<,%'-&" .$")($&,=2'"<2"%5$&'9*$(<"<$-%".B'%)$1'")29.,17"1*00'"1'"+2&".'"1$%"c"L'b"N*(5"'-" !WW_"%*2%".Bd('"<2"0$,('"D2<*.)F"G,2.,$-,Y"l'")$(".'2("$1&,*-")'(&2(9$&(,1'"<'".B*(<('" )29.,17"'&"<'%&(21&(,1'"<2"0*9,.,'("2(9$,-7",.%"&($-%+*(0'-&".'%".,'2`"=2B,.%",-@'%&,%%'-&" '-" .'2(" )(*)('" '%)$1'" =2'" .B*-" )*2(($,&" <4+,-,(" 1*00'" g)2-5%)$1'h[^7" c" 1*2)" <'" 9$15%,<'" &$,.%.,<'" '&" <'" b$`" %2(" .'%" 9$-1%" )29.,1%[aY" A'" g)2-5%)$1'h" '%&" 2-" '%)$1'" <4+,-," 1*00'" 1*-%&(2,&" &'0)*('." '&" 040*(,'.[_" =2," %B,-%1(,&" '-" (4%,%&$-1'" c" .$" )($&,=2'" -*(04'" <'" .B'%)$1'" )29.,17" ('-+*(e$-&" $,-%," .B$%)'1&" <,%%,<'-&" <2" %5$&'2(" $2`" X'2`" <'" .$" %*1,4&4Y" :B'%&" $2%%," 2-" '%)$1'" *y" %'" 1(4'" .'" .,'-" %*1,$." '-&('" .'%" <,++4('-&'%"&(,92%"2(9$,-'%7"2-'"+*(0'"<'"1$(('+*2("<'"12.&2('%Y""
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31
Christophe Gibout, Skateboard & espace public. Quelques éléments de compréhension et d’explication, Influxus, 2016. 32
Yves Pedrazzini, Des skaters et du punkspace - Notes pour une histoire secrète de l’urbanisme au 20ème et 21ème siècles, Influxus, 2016.
33
“Le processus au cours duquel le public constitué d'individus faisant usage de leur raison s'approprie la sphère publique contrôlée par l'autorité et la transforme en une sphère où la critique s'exerce contre le pouvoir de l'État” Jürgen Habermas, L'Espace public : archéologie
de la publicité comme dimension constitutive de la société bourgeoise, Paris, Payot, 1997.
34
Yves Pedrazzini, Des skaters et du punkspace - Notes pour une histoire secrète de l’urbanisme au 20ème et 21ème siècles, Influxus, 2016.
35
La wax est utilisée par les skateurs pour mieux glisser sur les curbs, blocs ou bancs. 36
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37
Gilles Lipovetsky, Jean Serroy, L’esthétisation du monde - Vivre à l’âge du capitalisme artiste, Paris, Gallimard, 2013. 38
Voir Annexe 1. 39
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40
Epicly Later’d: Menace, Part 3, Interview de Javier Nunez par Patrick O’Dell pour Vice Magazine, publiée le 11 novembre 2012.
41
The Coolhunt, article de Malcolm Gladwell pour The New Yorker, publié le 17 mars 1997.
42
À propos de la Place de la République (Paris), Interview de Vincent Hartenberger par David Turakiewicz, publiée le 10 juillet 2018.
43