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(1)International standardization Normalisation internationale. Montpellier 23 juin - 4 juillet 2008 Gourlot J.-P..

(2) Plan of presentation Plan de présentation • • • • •. Introduction Existing standards Calibration Drift and use Working groups. • • • • •. Introduction Standards existants Etalonnage Dérive et utilisation Groupes de travail.

(3) Normalization steps Etape de normalisation 1923 Universal Standards : Grade, Pulling ; Transactions .. 1940-1950 International Calibration Cotton Standards (ICCS) ; Research + Transactions.. 1986 HVI Calibration Cotton ; Transactions, USA.. Time. 1995/1998 - ICCS restricted for research ; - HVI Calibration Cotton Transactions, world.. Based on so-call ’reference methods’.

(4) Expected precision for the market Précision attendue sur le marché Confidence interval IM Length Length uniformity Strength Rd % +b Trash From Sasser, 1992.. (+/-) 0.1 unit (+/-) 0.02 inch (+/-) 0.51 mm (+/-) 1.5 % (+/-) 1.5 cN/tex (+/-) 1 % (+/-) 0.5 (+/-) 0.1 %.

(5) Plan of presentation Plan de présentation • • • • •. Introduction Existing standards Calibration Drift and use Working groups. • • • • •. Introduction Standards existants Etalonnage Dérive et utilisation Groupes de travail.

(6) Reference cotton use in the world: 1991 Utilisation de cotons de référence : 1991 Who. No HVI. Consumption HVICC Ratio kg kg/HVI. USDA. 212. ICCS kg. Ratio kg/HVI. 19214. 91. 3023. 14.2. USA except USDA 91. 828. 9. 49. 0.5. Outside USA. 318. 192. 0.6. 1.8. Total. 621. 0.004.

(7) Reference cotton use in the world: 1994 Utilisation de cotons de référence : 1994 Who. No HVI. Consumption HVICC Ratio kg kg/HVI. USDA. x. USA except USDA x Outside USA Total. x 883 +42%. ICCS kg. Ratio kg/HVI. 14145 -21%. ?. 6803 +125%. ?. 766 - 7%. ?. 127 +159%. ?. 245 +27%. ?. 42 +2200%. ?.

(8) Existing reference cottons after 1998 Cotons de référence existants après 1998 ICCS. ICCS Mike only. HVICC. * Stelometer. HVI. * Carded cotton. Raw cotton. Raw cotton. * 3 types. 6 types. 2* 2 types. * Measurement of T1 E1 (1 type with SL%). Mike. HVI. Length (UHM) UI% Strength.

(9) 6 - International normalisation of the measurements. 6 - International normalisation of the measurements. ICCS Mike only standards 7.0. Length of ICCS standards. Mike. Inches. 1.60. 6.0. 5.6 5.2. 5.0 4.2. 3.0. 2.8. 2.0. 2.5. 3.4. 1.20. 4.8 4.4. 3.7. 4.0. 1.00. 1.00. 3.7. 0.80. 0.80. 0.70. 0.60. 1.0. 0.60. 0.60. K. F. 1.05. 1.10. 1.10. 1.25. 1.10 1.15. 0.90. 0.90. 0.88. H. G. B. 1.00. 1.00. A. I. 1.20. 0.40. Gm. Cm. Dm. Bm. Im. Am. C. D. E. Cotton types. Cotton types. Upper Half Mean Length Histogram 2356 Cottons from different origins 35. 1.40. 1.25. 5.3. 4.6. 1.35. 1.40. Strength Histogram 2356 Cottons from different origins. Percentage % 40. Percentage %. 30 25. 30. 20 20. 15 10. 10. 5 0. 0. 20. 25. 30. 35. Upper Half Mean Length in mm Length Maxi HVICC/Length Mini HVICC. Tested cottons. 40. 15. 19. 23. 27. 31. 35. 39. Strength in g/tex St Maxi HVICC/St Mini HVICC. Tested cottons. 43.

(10) Existing reference cottons after 1998 Cotons de référence existants après 1998.

(11) Existing reference cottons after 1998 Cotons de référence existants après 1998.

(12) Plan of presentation Plan de présentation • • • • •. Introduction Existing standards Calibration Drift and use Working groups. • • • • •. Introduction Standards existants Etalonnage Dérive et utilisation Groupes de travail.

(13) ‘HVI’ modules calibration: IM Etalonnage d’une CMI : IM Calibration = change slope 5 and offset 4.5 between observed vs 4 theorical values. Observed values. 5.5. Theo. Obs.. 3.5 3 2.5 2.5. 3. 3.5. 4. 4.5. Theorical values. 5. 5.5.

(14) Plan of presentation Plan de présentation • • • • •. Introduction Existing standards Calibration Drift and use Working groups. • • • • •. Introduction Standards existants Etalonnage Dérive et utilisation Groupes de travail.

(15) About reference values establishement A propos de la création de standards. Question : is there any drift in the establishment of Calibration Cotton reference data ? • A set of calibration cotton = at least 2 cottons • These can also be analyzed as samples Calibration Set 1 Set 2 Set 3. Samples Issue/Date Set 1, 2, 3, … 1 Set 1, 2, 3, … 2 Set 1, 2, 3, … 3.

(16) About reference values establishement A propos de la création de standards. Question : is there any drift in the establishment of Calibration Cotton reference data ? • A set of calibration cotton = at least 2 cottons • These can also be analyzed as samples Calibration Set 1 Set 2 Set 3. Samples Issue/Date Set 1, 2, 3, … 1 Set 1, 2, 3, … 2 Set 1, 2, 3, … 3. Comparison between results => drift ?.

(17) Preliminary experiment Expérience préliminaire 112 110 108. ICCS HVICC(1) HVICC(2). Slope 0.48 cN/tex / year. 106 104 102 100. Slope 0.68 cN/tex / year Slope 0.11 cN/tex / year. 98 1981 1983 1985 1987 1989 1991 1993 1995 1997.

(18) Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes • Observed Drift.

(19) Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes • Observed Drift Consumption in 1991. 100 80 60 kg 40 20 0 HVICC USDA. USA (not USDA). ICCS Other.

(20) Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes • Observed Drift + Delay to access to recent generations of reference cottons => Differential in reading levels.

(21) Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes • Observed Drift + Delay to access to recent generations of reference cottons => Differential in reading levels Breaking force (cN) RS 20 tex r = 0,96 900. OE 20 tex r = 0,96 RS 27 tex r = 0,97. Relations between yarn versus fiber quality. OE 27 tex r = 0,98. 700. RS 37 tex r = 0,97 OE 37 tex r = 0,98 500. 300. 100 20. 25. 30. 35 HVI strength (cN/tex). 40. 45. 50.

(22) Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes • Observed Drift + Delay to access to recent generations of reference cottons => Differential in reading levels => Lower accuracy in the yarn quality prediction from fiber quality measurement.

(23) Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes • Observed Drift + Delay to access to recent generations of reference cottons => Differential in reading levels => Lower accuracy in the yarn quality prediction from fiber quality measurement. => Use / consume reference materials !!!!.

(24) Plan of presentation Plan de présentation • • • • •. Introduction Existing standards Calibration Drift and use Working groups. • • • • •. Introduction Standards existants Etalonnage Dérive et utilisation Groupes de travail.

(25) Working groups Groupes de travail • CSITC • International Textile Manufacturers Federation WG – – – – – – –. Spinning Committee Length ‘HVI’ Dust and trash Fineness and maturity Color Stickiness. • Normalization. • CSITC • International Textile Manufacturers Federation WG – – – – – – –. Filature Longueur ‘HVI’ Poussière et déchets Finesse et maturité Couleur Collage. • Normalisation.

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