Influence of the emollient polarity on the properties of cosmetic emulsion containing lamellar liquid crystals

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Influence of the emollient polarity on the properties of cosmetic emulsion containing lamellar liquid crystals

Daria Terescenco, Celine Picard, Géraldine Savary, Florence Clemenceau, Michel Grisel

To cite this version:

Daria Terescenco, Celine Picard, Géraldine Savary, Florence Clemenceau, Michel Grisel. Influence of the emollient polarity on the properties of cosmetic emulsion containing lamellar liquid crystals.

Formula VIII, Jul 2016, Barcelona, Spain. �hal-02566828�

Influence of the emollient structure on the properties of cosmetic Influence of the emollient structure on the properties of cosmetic

emulsions containing lamellar liquid crystals emulsions containing lamellar liquid crystals

Terescenco Daria

^a

, Picard Céline

^a

, Savary Géraldine

^a

, Clemenceau Florence

^b

, Grisel Michel

^a

* [a] Normandie Univ, UNIHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, 76600 Le Havre, France 1

[b] Direction Innovation - UID Excipients SEPPIC, 127 Chemin de la Poudrerie, 81105 Castres Cedex, France

Emulsion

Why lamellar phases?

Aim

The aim of this study is to understand the influence of the emollient structure on the properties of cosmetic emulsions containing lamellar liquid crystals.

Methods Results

Conclusion

Emollient structure has an impact on the properties of cosmetic emulsions like:



Droplet size (↘ for polar oils)



Microstructure (visually emulsions are finer for polar oils)



Lamellar phase formation (oil polarity impacts the structure of lamellar liquid phase)



Viscoelastic behavior (tanδ polar oils < tanδ nonpolar oils)

Name Abr. Chemical

structure

Interfacial tension vs water

(mN/m)

Mineral oil MO Hydrocarbons

mixture

54

Nonpolar

Isohexadecane IHD C

16

H

34 43,61

Ethylhexyl palmitate EHP C

24

H

48

O

2 30,11

Polar

Ethylhexyl stearate EHS C

26

H

52

O

2 29,78

Propylene glycol

dicaprylate/ dicaprate PGDD C

39

H

76

O

8 22,02

Caprylic/Capric

Triglyceride CCT C

21

H

40

O

5

13,49

Cocoglycerides COCOG

Blend of Mono-, Di- and

Triglyce rides

8,37

Perspectives



Sensory analysis of the emulsions. Are the differences between polar and nonpolar oils perceptible?



Determination of the emollient impact on lamellar phases hydration capacity.

Lipophilic

tail Polar head

Lamellar phase

Lamellar liquid crystalline phase

Lamellar phase of gel type : α-gel

Surfactant bilayer

Interlamellar water

Interlamellar water = great skin hydration potential

^2,3

1 Lukic, M., Pantelic, I., Daniels, R., Mu ller-Goymann, C., Savic, M., Savic, S. (2012). Moisturizing emulsion systems based on the novel long-chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier. J Therm Anal Calorim 111, 2045–2057.;

2 Markovic, D.B., Tasic-Kostov, M., Lukic, M., Isailovic, T., Krstonosic, V., Daniels, R., Savic, S. (2014). Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases. TSD 51, 133–145.;

3 Savic , S., Savic , M., Tamburic , S., Vuleta, G., Vesic , S., Mu ller-Goymann, C.C. (2007). An alkylpolyglucoside surfactant as a prospective pharmaceutical excipient for topical formulations: The influence of oil polarity on the colloidal structure and hydrocortisone in vitro/in vivo permeation. European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 30, 441–450.;

4 Savic, S., Lukic, M., Jaksic, I., Reichl, S., Tamburic, S., Mu ller-Goymann, C. (2011). An alkyl polyglucoside-mixed emulsifier as stabilizer of emulsion systems: The influence of colloidal structure on emulsions skin hydration potential. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science 358, 182–191.

5 Demus D., Goodby J., Spiess G.W., Vill H.W. (1998). Handbook of Liquid Crystals, vol. 3,Wiley-VCH, Weinheim.

Formulation

Emulsifier

Oil phase Water phase

Alkylpolyglucoside / Fat alcohol

Similar to stratum corneum lipidic structure = no irritation

on the skin

¹

Known for the lamellar phase formation

⁴

Emulsion

Emulsifier Oil phase Water phase

Emulsification

Dispersion of oil droplets in water

Oil droplet

Rheology ^{Tan δ ↗} for the emulsions containing nonpolar oils

Wide-angle X-ray diffraction ^α- gel present in all emulsions at 4,12 Å

⁵

2d sinθ = nλ

θ θ

θ

θ d

Water Bilayer

Nonpolar emollients Polar emollients

Distances for lamellar liquid phase ≠ function of oil polarity

Optical Path Length

Multiple Scattering

Laser light

Diluted emulsion

Nonpolar emollients Polar emollients

Particle diameter (µm) Normalized Particle Amount (Diff)

Granulometry Emulsions containing nonpolar oils ↗ droplet size

Results coherent with microscopic observations

Polarizer

Analyzer

Light from source

Plane Polarized Light

Emulsion containing liquid crystals

Ordinary ray

Recombined light rays

Extra-Ordinary ray

Polarized light Microscope Lamellar phases formation proved by the presence of

« Onion rings »

100 µm

MO

100 µm

CCT

100 µm

COCOG

Onion rings

Texture analysis No direct link between emollient polarity and texture properties

Loss modulus G’’ (Pa)Storage modulus G’ (Pa) Tan δ

Oscillation strain γ

tanδ = G

^′′/

G

^′

Oscillatory test Amplitude sweep

F

max

A+

A-

F

min

1mL

0,5mm

Compression test