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Submitted on 8 May 2020
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Metal oxide particles as emulsions stabilizers : how the specific physicochemical properties of the particles govern the interactions between skin surface and final
products
Daria Terescenco, Géraldine Savary, Nicolas Hucher, Celine Picard
To cite this version:
Daria Terescenco, Géraldine Savary, Nicolas Hucher, Celine Picard. Metal oxide particles as emulsions stabilizers : how the specific physicochemical properties of the particles govern the interactions between skin surface and final products. 9th International Colloids Conference, Jun 2019, Barcelona, Spain.
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Metal oxide particles as emulsions stabilizers:
Metal oxide particles as emulsions stabilizers:
how the specific physicochemical properties of the particles govern the interactions between skin surface and final products how the specific physicochemical properties of the particles govern the interactions between skin surface and final products
Terescenco Dariaa, Savary Géraldinea, Hucher Nicolasa, Picard Célinea
[a] Normandie Univ, UNILEHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, 76600 Le Havre, France
The aim of this study is to investigate how the physicochemical properties of the metal oxides impact microscopic, macroscopic and topical properties of the emulsions containing them
Water
Oil
θ < 90°
Hydrophilic particle1
O W
Zinc Oxide, Jojoba Esters
Titanium Dioxide, Silica, Cetyl Phosphate Silicon Dioxide Cetyl Silylate
C20H42O
ZnO ZnO
C22H46O C20H40O2
C22H44O2 SiO2 TiOTiO22
C16H35O4P
SiO SiO22
C19H42O3Si
Human Skin Human Skin
17.8 ± 5.5°
71.6 ± 5.7°
Conventional surfactant Conventional surfactant EM_TiO
EM_TiO
22EM_SiO EM_SiO
22EM_ZnO EM_ZnO
74.9 ± 3.0° 57.1 ± 8.5° 74.4 ± 3.9°
… without changing the hydrophobic properties of the skin, contrary to a conventional surfactant:
How physicochemical properties of the particles govern the interactions between final products and skin surface ?
Each particle brings its unique properties in sensory perception...
Oil Water
θ > 90°
Hydrophobic particle1
O W
Water
+
Carpylic capric triglycerides
+
Metal oxide particles Emulsification
Surface area = 58 m²/g Particle size < 100 nm
(TEM)
TiO TiO
22Surface area = 176 m²/g Particle size < 30 nm
(TEM)
Surface area = 7 m²/g Particle size < 60 nm
(TEM)
SiO SiO
22ZnO ZnO
Conclusion
This study showed that emulsions stabilized with solid particles :
Can be efficiently stabilized by metal oxides, with no surfactant addition;
Can be of oil on water or water in oil type, depending on the particle
properties (hydrophilic or lipophilic);
Show individual sensory perception,
governed not only by the emulsion type, but also by the particles individual
properties.
EM_TiO
EM_TiO22 EM_SiOEM_SiO22 EM_ZnOEM_ZnO
100 µm
O/W
1 10 100 1000 10000
0,01 1 100
G', G'' (Pa)
Deformation (%)
G' Pa G'' Pa
G’ = 4406 Pa Tan δ = 0.13
EM_TiO EM_TiO
22100 µm
O/W
1 10 100 1000 10000
0,01 1 100
G', G'' (Pa)
Deformation (%)
G' Pa G'' Pa
EM_SiO EM_SiO
22G’ = 3493 Pa
Tan δ = 0.02 100 µm
W/O
1 10 100 1000 10000
0,01 1 100
G', G'' (Pa)
Deformation (%)
G' Pa G'' Pa
EM_ZnO EM_ZnO
G’ = 1455 Pa Tan δ = 0.25
1 Binks, B. P. Particles as surfactants—similarities and differences. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science 7, 21–41 (2002).
Difficulty of spreading
EMEM SiOSiO22
EMEM TiOTiO22
1 3 6 9
EMEM ZnOZnO Whitening
effect
EMEM TiOTiO22
3
1 6 9
EMEM SiOSiO22
EMEM ZnOZnO
Screech residue
EMEM TiOTiO22
1 3 6 9
EMEM SiOSiO22 EMEM
ZnOZnO
