About cotton and the cotton value added chain : Montpellier 23 juin-4 juillet 2008
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(2) Plan of presentation • About cotton • The cotton value added chain • Instrument testing • Fiber and Yarn Quality relationship • Conclusions. • A propos du coton • La chaîne de valeur ajoutée du coton • Mesure instrumentale • Relations entre qualité de la fibre et celle du fil • Conclusions.
(3) Cotton plant cycle. 60 days. 7 days 55 days.
(4) Cotton plant growth. From Cirad ‘Cotons’ software.
(5) Harvesting and ginning. Cotton bolls harvest. Cotton ginning. Roller Saw.
(6) Statistics and economy. 700. 40 35 30. Surface (millions ha). 600. Yield (kg/ha). 25 20. 5. 200. World production (millions of tons). 19 24 19 /25 30 19 /31 36 19 /37 42 19 /43 48 19 /49 54 19 /55 60 19 /61 66 19 /67 72 19 /73 78 19 /79 84 19 /85 90 19 /91 96 20 /97 02 /0 3. 0. 400 300. 15 10. 500. 100 0.
(7) Plan of presentation • About cotton • The cotton value added chain • Instrument testing • Fiber and Yarn Quality relationship • Conclusions. • A propos du coton • La chaîne de valeur ajoutée du coton • Mesure instrumentale • Relations entre qualité de la fibre et celle du fil • Conclusions.
(8) Cotton cycle* (1/3). Seeds. * From GOURLOT J.-P. et al 1999, Recherche et développement en technologie : mesurer et améliorer la qualité des produits du cotonnier, créer de nouveaux débouchés, Agriculture et développement, n°22, Juin 1999, ISSN 1249-9951, pp. 90-113.. Sowing Cropping (IPM, fertilizers …) Harvesting Ginning. Commercial parameters Length, Length unif, Strength Color Rd% and +b, Micronaire Average and variability. Seeds. Fibers. Oil Flour, …. Bales. Samples for quality control. Grouping / quality. Marketing.
(9) Cotton cycle (2/3). Opening / cleaning / mixing Other fibers. Strength, fineness, Maturity, Length, Length unif., pollutions Average, and variability. Card. Drawing frame Ring spinning. Rotor spinning. Yarn cleaning Preparation to weaving. Knitting. Weaving Dying / Finishing / Clothing. Strength, fineness, Maturity, Length, Length unif., pollutions. Yarn strength and eveness SCF, yarn imperfections Maturity Easy care.
(10) Cotton cycle (3/3). Seeds Sowing Cropping (IPM, fertilizers …) Harvesting Ginning Seeds. Fibers. Oil Flour, …. Bales. Commercial parameters Length, Length unif, Strength Color Rd% and +b, Micronaire Average and variability Quality control. Grouping / quality. Opening/cleaning/mixing Other fibers. Card. Drawing frame Ring spinning. Rotor spinning. Yarn cleaning Preparation to weaving. Knitting. Weaving Dying / Finishing / Clothing. Marketing Strength, fineness, Maturity, Length, Length unif., pollutions Average, and variability Strength, fineness, Maturity, Length, Length unif., pollutions Yarn strength and eveness SCF, yarn imperfections Maturity Easy care.
(11) Plan of presentation • About cotton • The cotton value added chain • Instrument testing • Fiber and Yarn Quality relationship • Conclusions. • A propos du coton • La chaîne de valeur ajoutée du coton • Mesure instrumentale • Relations entre qualité de la fibre et celle du fil • Conclusions.
(12) Fiber quality measurement. Length Length uniformity. Micronaire. Color Trash content. Strength and more. Example of ITC (This display does not constitute any type of recommendation for this equipment, picture from an advertisement from Uster Technologies).
(13) Fiber quality measurement. Actual major manufacturers of so-call HVI equipments (alphabetic order) - (Lintronics (Israel)) - Premier (India) - (Schaffner Technologies (USA)) - Zellweger Uster (USA) => Uster Technologies.
(14) Fiber quality measurement. Number of HVI equipments 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0 1980 1982 1984 1986 1988 1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 1981 1983 1985 1987 1989 1991 1993 1995 1997 1999 Year. From Hunter, 2000.
(15) Fiber quality measurement. High Volume Instrument (HVI) in the world North America 46.9% Total = 883 HVI Australia 1.6%. Far East 23.3% Africa 3.9%. Cent., South America 7.4% Middle-East 1.8% Europa 15.2%. Source : HUNTER L., ITMF Committee, Brème, Mars 1994..
(16) Economical incidence of quality on fiber exchange price. 1993.
(17) Evolution of premium/discounts for HVI strength over 5 years ( P. SASSER EFS 1995). 400. Data collected during M. Sasser’s presentation. 300 US cents/lb. 200 100 0 -100 -200 -300. 19. 23. 24. 26. 30. 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995.
(18) Sources of variability in the results. Variety Growing conditions (fertilizer, insects). Plant to plant Picking technique Farm size. Seed cotton preparation Ginning technique (R/S) Lint cleaning. Precision Accuracy Repeatability Reproducibility Number of samples / bale Number of bales / lot Method of sampling. RH conditions, HVI calibration Nb tests / sample.
(19) Plan of presentation • About cotton • The cotton value added chain • Instrument testing • Fiber and Yarn Quality relationship • Conclusions. • A propos du coton • La chaîne de valeur ajoutée du coton • Mesure instrumentale • Relations entre qualité de la fibre et celle du fil • Conclusions.
(20) Fibre quality per spinning method. Rank. Ring spinning. Open end. Air-jet. 1. Length. Strength. Length. 2. Strength. Fineness. Trash. 3. Fineness. Length. Fineness. 4. Trash. Trash. Strength. Deussen, 1992.
(21) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality. Card. Open End. Drawing frame Ring spinning.
(22) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality. ML (mm) UHML (mm) UI (%) Strength (cN/tex) Elong (%) IM MR PM (%) H (mtex) HS (mtex) Rd (%) +b. Coton A 22.6 28.4 79.6 25 5.0 2.9 0.67 58.5 143 214 69.7 11.9. Coton B 24.2 28.9 83.7 30.3 5.7 3.8 0.90 79.6 155 173 72.8 11.3.
(23) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality CRL yarn tenacity tests 600. Breaking force cN Coton A RS Coton A OE Breaking force = 14.45 x Tex - 79.07. 500 400 300 200. Breaking force = 11.38 x Tex - 62.20. 100 0 -100 0. 5. 10. 15. 20 Tex. 25. 30. 35. 40.
(24) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality CRL yarn tenacity tests 800. Breaking force cN. 600. Coton B RS Coton B OE. 500. Breaking force = 17,27 x Tex - 39,14. 700. 400 300 200 100. Breaking force = 14,75 x Tex - 78.92. 0 -100 0. 5. 10. 15. 20 Tex. 25. 30. 35. 40.
(25) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality CRL yarn tenacity tests (RS) 800. Breaking force cN Coton A Coton B. 700 600 500. Breaking force = 17,27 x Tex - 39,14. 400 300 200 100. Breaking force = 14,45 x Tex - 79,07. 0 -100 0. 5. 10. 15. 20 Tex. 25. 30. 35. 40.
(26) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality Eveness tester UT3 : thick places (RS) thick places 1000 m 1800 1400. Coton A. 1000 600. Coton B 200 18. 20. 22. 24. 26. 28. 30 Tex. 32. 34. 36. 38. 40.
(27) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality Eveness tester UT3 : thin places (RS) 1200. Thin places 1000 m. 1000 800. Coton A. 600 400 200. Coton B. 0 18. 20. 22. 24. 26. 28. 30 Tex. 32. 34. 36. 38. 40.
(28) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality Eveness tester UT3 : neps places (RS) 1300. Neps 1000 m. 1100. Coton B. 900 700 500. Coton A. 300 100 18. 20. 22. 24. 26. 28. 30 Tex. 32. 34. 36. 38. 40.
(29) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality Eveness tester UT3 : hairiness (RS) 8. Hairiness H. 7.5. Coton A. 7 6.5 6 5.5. Coton B. 5 4.5 4 18. 20. 22. 24. 26. 28. 30 Tex. 32. 34. 36. 38. 40.
(30) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality Eveness tester UT3 : CV% (RS) 26. CV %. 24 22. Coton A. 20 18 16. Coton B. 14 18. 20. 22. 24. 26. 28. 30 Tex. 32. 34. 36. 38. 40.
(31) Relations between yarn versus fiber quality Breaking force (cN) RS 20 tex r = 0,96 900. OE 20 tex r = 0,96 RS 27 tex r = 0,97 OE 27 tex r = 0,98. 700. RS 37 tex r = 0,97 OE 37 tex r = 0,98 500. 300. 100 20. 25. 30. 35 HVI strength (cN/tex). 40. 45. 50.
(32) Effect of fibre parameters on yarn resistance. • 191 cottons from various origins • Fibre analysis + spinning RS 20tex. Ten Fil = 0.44 TenHVI - 0.0016 H + 2.58 MR + 0.33 UI - 27.03 R² = 0.76 ***.
(33) Fibre strength and UI vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex UI% 19 18 17. 80. Yarn 16 strength 15 (cN/tex) 14 13 12 11 24. 26. 28. 30. 32. HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC). 34.
(34) Fibre strength and UI vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex UI% 86 84 82 80. 19 18 17 Yarn 16 strength 15 (cN/tex) 14 13 12 11 24. 26. 28. 30. 32. HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC). 34.
(35) Fibre strength and MR vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex MR 19 18 17. 0.70. Yarn 16 strength 15 (cN/tex) 14 13 12 11 24. 26. 28. 30. 32. HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC). 34.
(36) Fibre strength and MR vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex MR 0.97 0.90 0.80 0.70. 19 18 17 Yarn 16 strength 15 (cN/tex) 14 13 12 11 24. 26. 28. 30. 32. HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC). 34.
(37) Fibre strength and H vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex H 19. 130. 18 17 Yarn 16 strength 15 (cN/tex) 14 13 12 11 24. 26. 28. 30. 32. HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC). 34.
(38) Fibre strength and H vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex H 19. 130 170 210. 18 17 Yarn 16 strength 15 (cN/tex) 14 13 12 11 24. 26. 28. 30. 32. HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC). 34.
(39) Fibres characteristics vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex Yarn strength (cN/tex) 19 18 17. UI% 86 84 82 80. 16 15. MR 0.97 0.90 0.80 0.70. 14 13 12. H 130 170 210. HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC). 35. 32. 30. 27. 25. 34. 32. 29. 27. 24. 34. 31. 29. 26. 24. 11.
(40) Fibres characteristics vs yarn eveness RS 20 tex. • • • •. 30 cottons Fibres characterization Spinning OE 20, 27 and 37 tex Spinning RS 20, 27 and 37 tex.
(41) Correlations coefficients between fibres characteristics and OE yarn eveness Thin pl. (FIN) 20 tex Thick pl. (GRO) ‘’ Neps (NEP) ‘’ CV evenness (CVR) ‘’ Hairiness (PIL) ‘’ FIN 27 tex GRO ‘’ NEP ‘’ CVR ‘’ PIL ‘’ FIN 37 tex GRO ‘’ NEP ‘’ CVR ‘’ PIL ‘’. ML UHML UI -0.55 -0.58 -0.33 -0.34 -0.37 -0.12 -0.25 -0.28 -0.10 -0.62 -0.63 -0.48 -0.63 -0.61 -0.60 -0.54 -0.57 -0.33 -0.32 -0.35 -0.12 -0.29 -0.32 -0.10 -0.39 -0.40 -0.27 -0.57 -0.56 -0.52 -0.43 -0.44 -0.32 -0.39 -0.41 -0.23 -0.25 -0.29 -0.03 -0.29 -0.28 -0.29 -0.65 -0.64 -0.59. ST -0.62 -0.34 -0.26 -0.60 -0.55 -0.52 -0.29 -0.28 -0.27 -0.52 -0.34 -0.28 -0.21 -0.21 -0.49. EL -0.43 -0.20 -0.22 -0.49 -0.59 -0.41 -0.25 -0.27 -0.34 -0.41 -0.30 -0.34 -0.17 -0.26 -0.62.
(42) Correlations coefficients between fibres characteristics and RS yarn eveness Thin pl. (FIN) 20 tex Thick pl. (GRO) ‘’ Neps (NEP) ‘’ CV evenness (CVR) ‘’ Hairiness (PIL) ‘’ FIN 27 tex GRO ‘’ NEP ‘’ CVR ‘’ PIL ‘’ FIN 37 tex GRO ‘’ NEP ‘’ CVR ‘’ PIL ‘’. ML UHML UI -0.75 -0.70 -0.86 -0.85 -0.81 -0.87 -0.60 -0.61 -0.42 -0.89 -0.86 -0.89 -0.72 -0.66 -0.86 -0.71 -0.66 -0.85 -0.82 -0.80 -0.79 -0.49 -0.53 -0.24 -0.90 -0.87 -0.90 -0.68 -0.62 -0.84 -0.66 -0.60 -0.82 -0.81 -0.79 -0.74 -0.47 -0.51 -0.20 -0.90 -0.86 -0.90 -0.71 -0.66 -0.86. ST -0.68 -0.78 -0.51 -0.82 -0.64 -0.64 -0.75 -0.41 -0.84 -0.64 -0.58 -0.73 -0.40 -0.83 -0.64. EL -0.71 -0.81 -0.60 -0.83 -0.73 -0.67 -0.79 -0.48 -0.85 -0.72 -0.60 -0.75 -0.43 -0.84 -0.75.
(43) Plan of presentation • About cotton • The cotton value added chain • Instrument testing • Fiber and Yarn Quality relationship • Conclusions. • A propos du coton • La chaîne de valeur ajoutée du coton • Mesure instrumentale • Relations entre qualité de la fibre et celle du fil • Conclusions.
(44) Conclusion: Use of instruments Conclusion : utilisation des instruments • Commercialy characterize cotton fibers properties – Standardization ongoing for all measured parameters (CSITC, …) – Future evolutions to integrate new properties. •. Caractériser commercialement les propriétés des fibres de coton – Standardisation en cours pour toutes les propriétés (CSITC, …) – Évolutions futures pour intégrer d’autres propriétés. characterization – That may induce new rules in the trade. – Nouvelles règles attendues dans la commercialisation.
(45) Conclusion: Use of instruments Conclusion : utilisation des instruments • Arrange laydowns to stabilize or control:. • Préparer les mélanges pour stabiliser ou contrôler. – Mean values. – Les valeurs moyennes. – Variability around those. – La variabilité autour de ces. mean values according to. valeurs moyennes en. production means (from. fonction des moyens de. field to ginning mill),. production (du champ à. sampling procedures. l’égrenage), les procédures. (from ginning to spinning. d’échantillonnage (de. mills) …. l’égrenage à la filature, …).
(46) Conclusion: Use of instruments Conclusion : utilisation des instruments • Predict the fiber behavior in the processing steps both in terms of:. • Prédire le comportement des fibres pendant les étapes de transformation sur deux plans :. – Quality. – Qualité. – Productivity. – Productivité.
(47) Conclusion: Use of instruments Conclusion : utilisation des instruments • Control,. • Contrôler. • Set a price. • Définir un prix. • Check, • And set spinning machineries To get the highest yarn quality as demanded by the market. • Vérifier • Et régler les machines de filature. Pour obtenir la meilleure qualité des fils demandée par le marché.
(48) Conclusion: Use of instruments Conclusion : utilisation des instruments • Breed new varieties depending on the improvements made in the transformation stages.. Depending on commercialy recognised characterization. • Sélectionner de nouvelles variétés en fonction des améliorations faites dans les étapes de transformation En fonction des méthodes reconnues pour la commercialisation.
(49) What Cirad does and recommends Ce que le CIRAD fait et recommande 1) Apparatus calibration to insure a proper reading level.. 1) Etalonner les appareils pour. 2) Check and set-up of procedures to warrant proper precision and accuracy levels.. 2) Vérifier et régler les procédures. 3) Check of the results through a participation to periodical international round tests.. assurer le niveau de lecture pour garantir la précision et la justesse des résultats 3) Vérifier les réultats grâce aux tests inter-laboratoires. 4) Check the precision in classing routine.. 4) Vérifier la précision dans les. TO GET. POUR OBTENIR. classements de routine. – Homogeneous results on the cotton market. – Des résultats homogènes dans la. – Limited number of claims. – Un nombre limité de réclamations. filière coton.
(50) Thank you for your attention.
(51)
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