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The M a n a g e m e n t of the P ro S e m p i o n e A s s o
c iation , 6, Place Saint-François, L A U S A N N E (Swit
zerland), is pleased to supply by correspondence,
FR E E OF CHARGE, all i n f o r m a t io n d e s i r e d
with regard to the regions affected by the Simplon line
(Switzerland and neighbouring countries): journeys,
trips, tours, routes, prices of tickets, summer and
winter resorts, town regulations, hotels and boarding
houses, baths and sanatoriums, sport and amusements,
intellectual resources, official and private schools, ar
tistic curiosities, industries, commerce, traffic, etc.
THE
SIMPLON RAILWAY
AND ITS CONNECTED LINES
(INTERNATIONAL RAILROAD)
F ren c h S w itz e rla n d
b y L . CO URTH ION
D is tric t of N e u c h â t e l , th e B e r n e s e O b e r l a n d , th e L ö t s c h b e r g a n d Brigue b y H . Be h r m a n n
B rigue a n d th e S im p lo n , T i c i n o a n d Italy
::::::: b y E d . Pl a t z h o f f - Le j e u n f. :::::::
Bibl. cant.
US
Kantonsbibl.
1010090319
PA 3 0 5 9 7 \4 fc / P u b l i s h e d b y t h e A s s o c i a t i o n - Pr o S f m p i o m :::: D i r e c t i o n at L a u sa n n » *Hannovi C h i l o « Vii Horl [Bamberg la rlsru h e iC hau moor IFretburg1/» A ug s b u rg /O c h a f T h a u té O d é m o n t' y Le IbcJe1 Freinej^^ Np,'A ; VallorbelffÉ In n sb ru c k D o m o d o sso la ] VENETI FIRENZE
I N D E X
Page I F . om P a r i s to th e S im p lo n b y L a u s a n n e ( V a l l o r b e - R e n e n s ) 7 II G e n e v a ... 12 III F r o m G e n e v a to L a u s a n n e by th e n o r th s h o re of th e L a k e of G e n e v a ( N y o n , G im e l, R o lle , M o r g e s ) . . . 16 I V L a u s a n n e 19 V F ro m L a u s a n n e to S t . M a u r ic e ( V e v e y , M o n t r e u x , A i g l e , B ex , G r y o n , V i l l a r s ) ... 21 V I From G e n e v a to S t. M a u r ic e by the s o u th s h o re of theL a k e of G e n e v a ( T h o n o n , E v ian le s B a in s, C h a m p e r y , M o r g i n s ) ...32 V II From G e n e v a to B o u v e re t by th e L a k e of G e n e v a 37 V III S t. M au r ic e , V e r n a y a z ...38 I X From M artig n y to C h a m o n ix , to th e G r e a t S t. B e r n a r d , a n d to S io n (S a lv a n , F in h a u t, O is iè r e s , F io n n a y ) 4 0 X S io n , S ie rre, V i s p , S a a s a n d Z e r m a t t ( E v o l e n a , M o n ta n a -V e rm a la , -V is s o y e , Z i n a l, L e u k e r b a d ) ...4 7 X I B rigue a n d the S im p lo n ( S im p lo n P a s s a n d H o s p i c e , G o n d o ) 5 9 X II From B rigue to th e F u r k a ( F ie s c h , E g g ish o rn , G l e t s c h ) . 61 X III From L a u s a n n e by F r ib o u rg to B ern (C h e x b r e s , P a lé z ie u x ,
B ulle, G ru y è re , C h a t e a u d O e x , G s t a a d , Z w e is im m e n ) 6 6 X I V F ro m B ale by O l t e n , or by D é lé m o n t a n d B ie n n e , to B e rn 77 X V From D e lle by D e lé m o n t a n d M o u tie r to B ern . . . 8 0 X V I From P a ris via D ijo n by L e s V e r r iè r e s - S u is s e or L a C h au x
d e F o n d s to B e r n ... 81 X V I I From N e u c h â te l to B ern (S t. B la is e - A n e t - C h i è t r e s ) . 8 4 X V I I I From B ern to T h u n . A . ) B y M ü n sin g e n . B . ) By B elp . . 8 7 X I X From T h u n to In te rla k e n (S ch e rz lin g e n , S p ie z ) . . . 91
X X From S p ie z to B rigue by th e L ö t s c h b e rg (H e u s t r ic h , M iile n e n a n d th e N ie s e n , F ru tig e n , K a n d e r s te g ) 9 8 X X I From B rigue to D o m o d o s s o la (S im p lo n T u n n e l , Is e lle ) 105 X X I I T h e V a lle y s of D o m o d o s s o l a ... 108 X X I I I From D o m o d o s s o la to L a g o M ag g io r» (B a v e n o , S tr e s a , P a l l a n z a ) ... 109 X X I V From L a g o M a g g io r e to T u r in , M ila n a n d G e n o a ( A r o n a ) I 12 X X V F ro m the S im p lo n to th e la k es of L u g a n o a n d C o m o (B o rr o m e a n Isla n d s, L a v e n o , L u g a n o ) ... 113 X X V I From th e S im p lo n to L o c a r n o a n d th e G r is o n s (B ris s a g o , L o c a r n o ) . . . . . 1 16
I N T R O D U C T O R Y
T h e S im p lo n tu n n el, opened to traffic i n th e s p rin g o f 1906 has b ro u g h t M ilan w ithin 14 h o u rs of Paris and 22 hours of L o n d o n . T h e route is th u s th e shortest from th e n o rth to th e so u th o f th e A lp s ; th e distance betw een Paris a n d M ilan was form erly b y M o n t C enis 590 miles, this was reduced to 560 by th e tunnelling of the S* G o th a rd a n d is now, thanks to th e Sim p lo n , o nly 516 miles, w hich is less th an th e distance from Paris to M arseilles. A nd this saving of miles an d hours is not th e sole advantage th at th e S im plon can claim over its older rivals : th ro u g h piercing th e central block of th e Alps a t its base it has th e advantage of being virtually a level line, the n o rth e rn entrance of th e tun n el is little above th e level of th e R ho n e a n d th e so u th ern is b u t a few miles from th e flat banks of the T o c e , a trib u tary of Lago M aggiore. T h e g reatest altitude of th e line is a t th e culm inating point of th e tunnel 2,350, feet th a t is 1,500 less th an th a t o f th e S l G o th a rd a nd 2,000 less th an that of M o n t Cenis.
M oreo v er th e S im plon region has always been considered the m ost a d v an tageous strategic route betw een N o rth W estern E u ro p e an d th e countries of the S o u th and East. So far back as th e m iddle ages a hospice for travellers and pilgrim s was m aintained am id its ru gged defiles by th e knights of M alta. In th e XVII cen tu ry a Valaisan, G a sp a rd Stockalper, built th e old hospice
V a tiorbe.
th a t still stands, an d thanks to th e security th u s afforded th e Sim p lo n has since 1640 b een th e principal postal ro u te betw een G en ev a a n d M ilan. In 1797 N apoleon, th e n general c o m m a n d in g in chief o f th e A rm y o f Italy, called the atten tio n of th e D irectory to th e im portance o f a strategic ro u te o ver the Pass. In 1800, as F ir st C onsul, he lost n o tim e in realising his plan, an d in 1801 o rd ered th e establishm ent in th e Pass of a hospice sim ilar to th a t o f the G r a n d S l B ernard, w hich he had visited o n his way to M arengo, a n d placed it u n d e r th e m anagem ent o f th e sam e b ro th e rh o o d .
If a straight line b e d ra w n o n the m ap of E u ro p e from Paris to Brindisi, it will be seen th a t it c u ts th e Alps just east of B rigue at th e o p en in g o f th e tu n n el, runs m ore o r less n e ar to tow ns su ch as D ijon, Besançon, Lausanne, B ern, G eneva, M ilan Venice, T r ie ste , G en o a, Florence, L e g h o rn , Bologna, Ancona, and intersects railway lines from Rom e, Naples, Sicily a n d various ports of sail lor G reece a n d th e eastern M editerran ean , E g y p t a n d th e Suez Canal.
A fter these general rem arks, th e accuracy o f w hich can b e easily verified, we propose in th e following pages to indicate in detail som e o f th e advantages o f this route. W e would especially p o in t o u t th a t in a d d itio n to th e saving of tim e a n d m oney, m any u n d en iab le attractio n s are offered to travellers by the S im p lo n and its connected lines, were it only th e op p o rtu n ities o f seeing th e central region o f th e great A lps, incontestably th e m ost freq u en ted holi day g ro u n d of th e world.
I. F r o m P a r is to the S im p lon
A . B y Vallorbe a n d Lausanne.
O n e ntering S w itzerland e ith e r by th e elevated dales o f P ontarlier, o r by the m ore level ro u te th a t is b ein g tunnelled th ro u g h M o n t d 'O r , w e d e bouch into th e rem arkable valley o f th e O rb e , a river th a t a fte r seem ing to term inate in th e L ac de Joux, w hich is form ed b y its waters, reappears a t th e foot of M o n t d ’O r.
Va l l o r b e (2,530*) a large m a n u fa c tu rin g village o f 4,309 inhabitants, on both banks o f th e O rb e . Sw iss custom house.
Fr o m Va l l o r b e t o l e Po n t a n d l e Br a s s u s (the vale of Joux)
15 l/o m . b y rail in 1 h . 45 m in. T h e line diverges o n th e right a t le D a y and gradually ascends the w ooded slopes o f th e D e n t d e V aulion, passes in front of the cave th a t is th e source o f th e O rb e , a n d h ig h e r u p s kirts lake Brenet.
7 m . L e P ont (3,360*) at th e en tra n c e o f th e sm iling vale of Joux, a resort in su m m er o n account of its a ltitu d e an d its forests, a n d in w in te r o n account of th e sports o n lake Joux. Im m ediately b eh in d it rises th e D e n t d e Vaulion (4,957*) a gran d p o in t o f view.
A little steam er plies on th e lake in su m m e r, to u ch in g a t l'Abbaye, le Lieu,
le Sentier, le Brassus, villages b u s ie d with watch an d clock making.
lia ü a ig u e a a n d th e P l a n d e Ij C om be.
(3,100 ) a large village o n th e slopes of M o n t S u ch et, w ith tine views and su r ro u n d e d by forests, is m uch frequented in su m m er.
The line crosses th e O rb e above th e striking cascade know n as the S aut du Day, and th en passes th e castle of les Clées.
Soon after this a wide and varied p ro sp ect opens before us. In th e fore g ro u n d th e Swiss plateau w ith a n cien t little tow ns a nd ruined castles standing here and there am idst its w ooded hills ; b e yond these, above th e haze, clear cut in the rare u p p e r air, th e snowy ra m p a rt of the A lps from M o n t Blanc to th e Jun g frau rises like a vision ; th e lake of N e u ch â te l stretches away into the d ista n ce on th e left, th e lake of G eneva o n the right ; th e v erdant slope im mediately below us is d o tte d with ham lets, am id which the line descends in long windings.
/ 7 1 2 m . R o m a i n M O T I E R , an ancient to wn with a rom anesque ch u rch of the vil! century, alm ost th e only fragm ent rem aining of the old convent from which the to w n derives its nam e, (R o m a n u m M onasterium ).
12 m . A r n e x ( 1820 ) 2 miles from th e very ancient little village of Orhc (1610 ) seated at th e em b o u c h u re of the river of th e same nam e ; it contains relics of th e R om an dom ination. T h e r e is an old F ran co -B u rg u n d ian castle, once th e residence of Q u een B runhilda, a n d a statue of P ierre Viret, the re former, who was born here.
14 Vi m . La Sa r r az( 1673') an old to wn of 1,000 inhabitants with a fortified
castle of th e XI c en tu ry posted on th e ridge of th e M o rm o n i, which blocks the valley, and form s th e w atershed betw een th e O rb e flowing tow ards the Rhine, a n d th e Venoge a trib u tary of th e R hone.
19.5. m . C o s s o N A Y (1887*) a small to w n of 1,100 inhabitants on a plateau dom inating th e valley of th e Venoge. C able railway from the station to Cosso nay-tow n .
2 6 m . Re n e n s (1397 ) 3,320 in habitants. T h e junction of the lines Paris, to G eneva, an d to N euchâtel and Z urich.
2 8 m . La u s a n n e. See p . 19.
B . B y N euchâtel and Yverdon.
O n l e a v i n g N e u c h â t e l t h e l in e p a s s e s t h r o u g h Se r r ie r e s, f a m o u s f o r its c h o c o l a t e f a c t o r i e s . A t 3 . m . Au v e r n i e r, a g r e a t s t r e t c h o f a l l u v i u m b r o u g h t d o w n b y t h e A r e u s e . O n a hill s t a n d s COLOMBIER w i t h a n o l d c a s tle w h i c h h a s b e e n t r a n s f o r m e d i n t o b a r r a c k s f o r i n f a n t r y t r a i n i n g . A t 6 . 3 m . Bo u d r y a little t o w n 2 , 2 0 0 i n h a b i t a n t s o n t h e A r e u s e , t h e i n t e r e s t i n g g o r g e s o f w h i c h c a n b e v i s i t e d t h e n c e . It w a s t h e b i r t h p l a c e o f J e a n P a u l M a r a t o f t h e C o n v e n t i o n N e a r it are t h e f a m o u s v i n e y a r d s o f C o r - t a il lo d . A f t e r Be v a ix, 9 . m . t h e l i n e a n d t h e r o a d r e jo in t h e la k e s h o r e a n d f o l l o w it t o its u p p e r e n d n e a r Y v e r d o n . B e t w e e n Va u m a r c u s, 13. m . w i t h a n o l d c a s t l e , a n d Co n c i s e, 1 5 .4 . m . t h e s i t e o f a n o l d p i l e - v i l l a g e in t h e lak e, w c e n t e r t h e c a n t o n o f V a u d . O n t h e o p p o s i t e s i d e o f t h e la k e is t h e p i c t u r e s q u e t o w n o f E slavayer w i t h its o l d c a s t l e , c h e f - l i e u o f t h e F r i b o u r g d i s t r i c t o f t h e B r o y c .
L e s R a u e s . — O n th e Y o e r d o n -S a m te C ro ix line.
2 0 .6 . m . GRANDSON, a p icturesque little town of 1.800 in habitants, famous for th e defeat of C harles th e Bold by th e Swiss, 3 M arch 1476. It has an old rom anesque c h u rch and a restored and in habited feudal castle.
23 m . YvERDON, a to w n of 9.000 inhabitants on th e banks of th e Thiele, a short distance before it enters the lake. H otel d e Ville, w ith a m u seu m of R om an antiquities. Castle of XII cen tu ry , w ith a library a n d collection of coins. O n the S . E . o f th e town, at a q u a rte r of an h o u r's distance, is a m u ch frequented an d well equ ip p ed hydropathic establishm ent, SULPHUR
springs, 76° F. N e ar this is th e p ro p erty of th e Prairie w ith a n o th e r spring. Y verdon has also a high school for girls, a m echanical school a n d ed u ca tional establishm ents, public and private. Pestalozzi tau g h t th ere from 1805 to 1825 ; his statue, by Lanz, stands in the castle square.
Fr o m Yv e r d o nt o Sa i n t e Cr o ix15. m . railway, m . 1 h . to 1 % h. (docs n o t r u n on Su n d ay s.) T h e line clim bs th e side of th e J u r a by V a l- leyres-sous-M ontagny an d E s seri. Before e n te rin g th e val
ley w e have a fine view of the plateau w ith th e A lps in th e distance. A fte r th e sta tions of Baulmcs an d S ix
Fontaines th e line makes a
w ide sweep back a n d rounds th e M o n t de Baulm es in a series of tunnels am id a fine forest.
S a in te C roix (3.690*) a
large m an u factu rin g village,
p rim a n d clean, in a shelte- Y o erd o n . — S ta tu e o f P e s ta lo z z i.
red nook of the Ju ra. T h e
6000 inhabitants are mainly engaged in m aking clocks, watches and musical boxes. T h e r e are interesting excursions, and from th e heights th at dom inate th e locality one has splendid a n d w ide-spread views of the Savoy Alps, Valais, G ru y è re , and the lake of Geneva. It is a su m m e r and w inter holiday resort. S ain te Croix, and still m ore the n e ighbouring ham let of Les Rasses, are m uch frequented for w inter sports.
T h e line from Neuchâtel to Lausanne touches at Ependes, C havornay (tram way for O rb e) and Eclcpens ; th en it joins the line from Vallorbe to Lausanne at Daillens (34.3. m.).
G e n e v a — T h e R o a d s t e a d .
H. Geneva
T h e traveller e ntering Sw itzerland from M âcon, Lyon, A in b e n eu , and Culoz, points of junction of lines from Paris for southern a n d central France, D au p h in e and T u r i n , passes thro u g h th e narrow defile of the F o r t d e VEcluse o n th e fu rth er threshold of which a great valley sud d en ly breaks into view.
T h e s om bre wall of the J u ra s h u ts it in on the no rth , and the little chain of th e V uache on the south ; th e w inding R hone indents the foreground plateau, w hich on th e right stretches to the foothills of th e A lps, above w hich gleams, high and afar, in the clo uds o r against th e blue, th e m ajestic outline of M ont Blanc ; on the left is infinite space, to be filled on arrival at G eneva with one of the loveliest prospects in the world.
Ge n e v a (1250 ) the largest town of F ren c h Sw itzerland, and one of the m ost im portant of th e Swiss C onfederation, w ith an aggregate population of 145.000 souls, is spread on th e two banks of th e lake and of th e broad im p e tuous R hone which issues from it. G eneva is thus divided into tw o distinct
M o n t B l a n c fr o m th e Sal'eoe.
parts : o n th e left th e city proper, clustering ro u n d th e cathedral, w hich was fou n d ed in 1063 by th e E m p e r o r C o n ra d II, b u t has since been entirely transform ed ; this stood in th e territory of th e Allobroges, while th e qu arter of S ’ G ervais o n th e right, was in that of the H elvetn. O n e may say th at the key to the long history of G eneva is th e interaction of these tw o elem ents that com bined to form th e earliest population, and the on g in al tendencies of which in changed forms still subsist. T h e Reform ation m ade this little city one of th e intellectual centres o f the w orld. In 1559 Calvin founded th e College and Academ y that was th e m o th e r of the present U niversity, which has given to literature such m en as Amiel, M arc M onnier, E d o u ard Rod, and to science d e S aussure, d e la Rive, Pictet, an d Carl Vogt.
G eneva has besides schools of mediente, dentistry, art, m anufactures, horo logy, engineering, com m erce a n d horticulture and for w om en secondar)-, higher and housekeeping schools. Its prim ary schools are considered am ong th e first in E urope
Its frontage on the waters of th e lake an d th e ru sh in g R hone is lined with spacious and shady esplanades n ear which are su m p tu o u s hotels, pleasant gardens, and shops glittering w ith th e handiw ork for which G eneva is known throughout the world : jewelry, clocks, watches, optical an d scientific in s tru ments. F ine bridges now *oin the tw o banks : nearest the lake is th e b road P o n t de M ont Blanc, 866 feet long, th en the P o n t des Bergues, w hich forms a n angle from the apex of w hich a footbridge leads to the huge m ass of rock k now n as Rousseau s Island. It has been planted w ith trees am o n g w hich stan d s a b ronze statue of the p hilosopher erected by his fellow citizen P rad ie r in 1834 ; a little lower down is th e P o n t d e la C oulouvrenière.
Geneva has a large th eatre subsidised by th e m unicipality, a T h é â tre de Comédie, and a K ursaal w ith a su m m e r concert room . T h e r e is also a C o n servatoire de M u siq u e , a M u se u m of p ainting an d scu lp tu re, an H istorical and a Natural H istory M u se u m , and a Botanical G a rd e n , as well as o th e r public gardens and prom enades. I * 2 m - n o rth of the railway station, in a beautiful park, is the M usée d e l'A riana (G u id e books, especially " Eig h t days in G e n e v a “ , published in F r en c h , G e rm a n a n d English, can be seen at th e Official Bureau of Inform ation, 3, Place d es Bergues).
Besides its interior system of tram w ays, its steam boat service for lake-side villages (p. 37) and its th re e main railway lines, G eneva is c onnected w ith the neighbouring villages of Sw itzerland and F ran c e by n u m ero u s light railways two of which arc linked to the rack-and-pinion line of M o n t Salève (4480 ) from the su m m it of w hich one enjoys a fine view of G eneva, the lake a n d th e Savoy Alps u p to M o n t Blanc.
Fr om Ge n e v a t o Fe r n e y a n d Gex(Ain) tram in I h. 20 m. At Ferney is the form er residence of Voltaire, now belonging to M ad a m e L a m b e rt, with a statue of the p h i'o so p h e r in front. C h an g e tram s for G ex, on th e line to P an s by the Col de la Faucille. M o to rc ar service o n th e Paris ro ad .
Fr om Ge ne va t o Ve y r ie r a n d Treiz e Ar br es(Salève) 1 h. 26. m . A t
N u o n a n d th e A l p i
III. F r o m G eneva to Lausanne by th e north shore of the Lake 5.2 m . Ve r s o ix ( 1300 ) a m an u factu rin g to wn of 1711 inhabitants at the a o u th of the Versoix o r D ivonne. It was detached from the departm ent of Xin to link u p the territory of G eneva and that of the confederation
8.2 miles CoP PET (1320 ) a pleasant and p icturesque little to wn ; it is d o m in ated by a m ansion th at was form erly th e residence of N ecker and M ad am e d e Stael a n d is now the p ro p erty of the C o m te d'H aussonville.
13.6 m . Ny o n, a p re tty little to w n of 5100 in h a b ita n ts ; known in R om an tim es by th e names of N o v io d u n u m and Colonia Julia Equestri*. It is boldly posted above th e lake with its im posing castle. T h e re is a line view of M o n t Blanc an d th e Savoy Alps from its so u th ern bastion, w here it is p r o posed to erect a statue to E douard Rod.
T h e chief object of note is th e castle, the greater part of which dates from
S a in l-C e r g u e s su r N p o n .
the XIV century, tho u g h th ere is m u c h later construction. A m ong the c o n tents of its very interesting M u se u m are relics of the prehistoric lake-villages. R A IL W A Y S. Fr o m Ny o n TO Be l l e g a r d e b y D iv o n n e and G ex in 3 . h
From Ny o n TO Mo r e z, in the F ren c h Ju ra, b y S ' C ergue and la C ure. P O S T A L D I L I G E N C E S : N y o n t o A r z i e r . A V I m . in I h . 2 0 m . N y o n TO M o r e z b y Trélex , S* C ergue a n d la C u re , 2 0 m. in 1 h . 1 0 min.
Nyon is the centre for m any frequented su m m e r resorts : G ingim , A rzier and above all S i Cergucs, w hich is a centre for w in te r sports. S oon after leaving the station o r th e p ort we pass th e C h atea u de P rangm s, th e p r o perty of th e family B onaparte.
16V2 m . Gl a n d(1440) function of Begm ns b y Vich, an electric Ime of 2.3 m.
Begnins (1800 ) on the way from N y o n to M arch airu z and the Vale of
Joux, is a pleasantly situated su m m e r resort.
th e lake a n d th e hills, w ith a considerable wine trade. T h e r e is a re m arkable castle of the
XIII c en tu ry with sh o rt m as sive towers, th e seat of the d istrict authorities A t Rolle was bo rn F rederic C ésar de la H arpe, w ho as tu to r of the C zar Alexander I rose to be a Russian general, an d took a leading part in th e liberation of V aud. A poplar, planted in 1798 as a T ree of L ib erty , and an obelisk raised on an artificial island com m em o rate th e event. F r o m Ro l l e t o Gi m e l,
electric railway of 6 % m
-S ignal de Bougy (2363 ) 25 m m .
M orges — L e p e tit bois.
from the line, a celebrated
point of view c o m m a n d in g th e whole extent of th e lake of G eneva, w ith the Savoy Alps a n d M o n t Blanc behind.
G im el (2453*) also re ached by a line by way of Allam an and A u b o n n e . A pretty village su rro u n d e d by magnificent forests ; a favourite holiday resort. By tw o different roads we can m o u n t in 1 *4 h. to the Col de M arch airu z (4033 ) w hence we get to th e Vale o f Joux.
24.2 m . Al l a m a n (1380 ). T h e electric railway m entioned above links
the station with the to w n of A u bonne, whence it m ounts to G im el.
Aubonne (1680 ) A beautifully situated little town of 1600 in habitants. T h e r e are fine forests near.
2 9 . 8 m . Mo r g e s a p re tty little to w n on a b road bay a t o n e o f th e widest parts of th e lake o f G en ev a, 4600 in h a b ita n ts.
T h e r e is a fine view across th e lake to th e Savoy Alps ; fram ed in a gap, M o n t Blanc rises in all its g ran d eu r. T h e p o rt was c o n stru cted in 1680 from plans b y A dm iral D u q u e sn e w ho e n d ed his days in th e neighb o u rh o o d . T h e castle with massive ro u n d towers at its angles is now an arsenal.
F r o m Mo r g e s a l i n e o f 1 2 m . r u n s to Biè r e i n 3 7 m m .
2.25 m . V u fflens ie C hâteau (1593 ) a village d o m in a te d by a fine feudal castle, th e best preserved seigneurial seat of F r en c h Sw itzerland.
7 * /2 m . Apples, b ran ch line to I'IsIe.
12. m . Bière (2233*) 1300 in h ab itan ts, at th e extrem ity of th e extensive plateau th a t lies u n d e r th e pineclad slopes of M o n t T e n d r e an d M o n t de Bière. A m ilitary station a n d artillery training cam p ; th e re are large bar racks outside th e village on th e south.
A t Re n e n sthe line rejoins those from N euchâtel and Paris.
IV. Lausanne
A city of 75,000 inhabitants capital of the C an to n o f Vaud, in a most s trik ing and p icturesque situ atio n . T h e original city o n the h ills above the rivu lets of the Flo n and th e L o u v e has grown rapidly d u rin g the last half cen tu ry . Overlooking the lake from th e lower slopes of the Jorat hills, it holds its place in the m em ory by th e varied aspects resulting from its peculiar topography.
Its port at O u c h y is one of th e busiest on th e lake. L au san n e is also the centre o f the railway lines o f w estern S w itzerland. Its s tation is th e m e e t ing place of tra in s from Paris and G eneva, from Italy by Valais, and from cen tral Switzerland by B ern, N euchâtel and th e Valley of th e Broye. Less important lines connect it w ith th e interior of th e canton, especially with Echallens and M o u d o n .
em pire, w hen the bishops of Avenches removed th e ir seat to th is conveniently situated and easily defensible hill. T h e present cathedral was constructed about the m iddle of th e XIII cen tu ry ; it was restored in 1875, partly from plans by Violet le D u c .
T h e castle, a square flanked by towers, was also b u ilt b y th e bishops in th e XIII c entury. It is now th e seat of th e cantonal governm ent.
T h e political im portance of Lausanne is of q u ite recent d ate. F r o m 1536 to th e F ren c h R evolution th e Pays de V aud was governed by th e Bernese, and looked to Bern as its capital. T h e independence th at it a cq u ired in 1798 was consum m ated in 1803 by th e form ation o f th e confederate canton of V aud. T h e Bernese had founded at Lausanne an A cadem y th at a cquired some celebrity, a n d was transform ed into a U niversity in 1890.
T h o u g h L au san n e gives its nam e to n o special in d u stry o r trad e, it is nevertheless an im p o rtan t centre of all kinds of business and above all of science and education. Besides the U niversity faculties, for w hich suitable
buildings were provided some years ago, it has a school of engineering, a classical school an d gym nasium for the prelim inary U niversity course, an Industrial school, a gym nasium p rep arato ry to the U niversity courses in N atu ral Science, tw o higher schools and a gym nasium for girls proceeding to the University, an unsectarian chair of theology, an Institute of M usic,
a Commercial school, an In stitu te o f A griculture, and a large n u m b er of private b oarding schools and educational institutions. It has also a theatre and a k u rsa al.(F o r fu r th er inform ation refer to th e Société de D éveloppem ent.)
V. F ro m Lausanne to Saint-M aurice
O n leaving the Lausanne station the S im p lo n line descends towards the lake, w hile the line to Bern m ounts the side of th e plateau diagonally. W e pass the village of P u L L Y .
3. m . LuTRY (1266 ) a v i ll a g e o f 2,560 i n h a b i t a n t s : h e r e c o m m e n c e th e v i n e y a r d s o f L a v a u x , d o t t e d w i t h v i l l a g e s .
5.3. m. C u L L Y ( 1 2 6 0 ) B urgh of 1068 in h ab itan ts, centre of the wine trade o f Lavaux. O n the q uay is an obelisk to th e m em ory of M ajo r Davcl, a native of Cully, who was executed in 1723, a m arty r of V audois in dependence.
We now e n ter the region of the u p p e r lake : on the right Vevey and M o n treux, dom inated by the Alps of G ru y ère, the D e n t de Jam an and the Rochers de Naye. In front the lake stretches to th e broad valley of th e R hone, beyond which, betw een the crenelated walls of the D e n ts du M idi and the pinnacled bastion of the D ent d e M o rcle s , rises the misty cone of C atogne and th e stainless dome of the G ra n d C om bin.
8 ^ 2 m . R i v a z - S t - S a p h o r i n , t w o g r o u p s o f h o u s e s ; o n e , w e l l k n o w n to artists , b u ilt a g a i n s t t h e c a s t l e o f G l é r o l l e s , o n a l it tl e p e n i n s u l a r o f ro ck. T h e
C l i c h é S A . S c h r g e
Phot Perrotet ct David, Chaux-de-Fonds
V e o cu — T h e Q u a y s .
1 1 2 m . Ve ve y ( 1 2 6 6 ) fringing the lake shore with its pleasant quays ®nd spacious market-place, an industrial and residential tow n, with a p o p u
lation of 18,000 souls. Its position at th e lower end of th e Valley of the Veveyse by means of which it com m unicates with the canton of F ribourg, especially with G ru y ère, makes it an im portant market tow n. T h e m o u n tains that dom inate it rise pleasantly in successive zones o f vines, beeches and pines. T h e prosperous villages a n d ham lets scattered o ver its hills, the many villas th a t ad o rn its neighbourhood, the views of th e lake a n d its shores, especially from S ain t G in g o lp h to Villtineuve, present an u nforgettable panorama. A n avenue m ade a few years ago connects th e m arket square and the station w ith the principal landing quay. Factories for engineering and comestibles. T h e notable buildings are : the ch u rch of S ain t- M a rtin on a wooded hill, the Russian C hapel, th e castle, ancient residence of the bailiffs of Bern, the Iénisch M u seu m , the C hateau de l'Aile (th ere is an
official Bureau for all inform ation) A traditional festival of wide cele brity, the F ête des V ignerons, is organised at long intervals.
R A IL W A Y S. Vevey to Chexbres and Puidoux, 4.8 m . m 22 m m . T h e line ascends th e vine-clad slopes for 3 Vo. m . to Chexbres (1873 ) a large village at th e u p p e r limit of the Saint Sap h o rin vin ey ard s; fine views especially from th e Signal de C hex b res At Pu id o u x th e line joins th at from L au san n e to B e r n . F .L E C T R IC R A IL W A Y S . F ro m Ve v e y, t o Ch a t e lSt De n i s, 7 . m . in 35-40 min. The line th reads the valley of the Veveyse to G ilam o n t, th en turns back to S 1 Legier, w here it forks, one branch going to B lonay (old castle) and
Chamby, to join the M o n tre u x -O b e rla n d line, th e o th e r re tu rn in g towards
the valley of th e Veveyse, w hich it crosses by a lofty iron bridge.
7 m . C hatel S x Denis (2430 ). A tow n of 2,500 in habitants, an im portant agricultural centre. Its large c hurch is finely situated on a hill above the town. Electric railway lines ru n to G ru y è re by Palézieux (junction of the lines from Lausanne to Bern, and from L au san n e to Lyss) and by Bulle, chef-lieu of the district of G ru y è re F r o m Bulle are lines to R o m o n t and to M ontbovon. (p. òò).
Fr o m V e v e y t o M o n t P è l e r i n ( 3 3 3 3 * ). C able railway a th ird of a mile long in 24 mm ., with stations at Corseaux and C hardortne-Jonçny. To the south. M o n t Pèlerin com m ands a view of the lake and th e lower valley of the Rhone ; to the north , of th e valley of the Broye a n d the Swiss plateau. S u m m e r a n d w inter sports.
V e v e y t o t h e P l é i a d e s (4550 ) m 1 h. 15 m m . f h e all-round view is similar but m ore extensive than th at from M o n t P èlenn.
1 2 .5 min. L a I o u r DE P e i l z , th e residence of the painter G u stav e C o u r u t d u rin g his exile. The line th en goes by B u n er to Clärens. O n the left is the C h âte audes Crêtes, a favourite soioum of G a m b e tta ; here tradition places the famous Bosquet de Julie of R ousseau’s N ouvelle H é lo isc ”. C row ning a
.Yfontreux a n d its
bau*-14.4 m. Cl.ARENS, which inspired the muse of Rousseau and Byron,
forms part of the agglomeration of transform ed villages known as M on treu x . Steamboat Station. O n an islet near, known as the Roche aux M ouettes, is a villa built by the painter C h artran .
1^.3 m. MoNTREUX, 22,000 in habitants, seated on the twin bays of C lä rens and T e r n t e t, the glory of the lake of G eneva. A foreign residential to wn of the first importance, which owes its reputation to its m ild a n d equable w inter climate, and to its lovelv situation, f h e im m ediate n eighbourhood affords a choice of climatic stations th at is alm ost w ithout parallel. T h e y offer gra dations of altitude from the borders of the lake (1250*) to G lio n (2330*) les Avants (3330 ). C aux (3670 ), and finally N aye (6670') ,* all are connected with M ontreux hv rail.
M ontreux has a Casi n o - K ursaal th at is o pen ail the winter, c hurches for every creed, facilities (or all su m m er and w inter sports, and 80 hotels. An electric tram w ay runs along the lake from Vevev to Villeneuve.
T e rritet.
MONTREUX t o Gl i o n (2330*), a pleasant, all-the-year-round resort, reached by electric railway from M o n tre u x station in 12 m in . or by the cable railway from T e rr ite t, m entioned below.
M o n t r e u x t o Zw eisim m en. T h e electric railway M o n tre u x -O b rrlan d - Bernois, links th e lake of G eneva to the lake of T h u n , by one of th e most delightful journeys in th e world, and furnishes th e shortest route from M o n treux to Interlaken and L ucerne. T h e express trams, which have restaurant cars, m ake th e journey from M o n tre u x to Zw eisim m cn in 3 hours, from Zweisim men to Interlaken in 1 hour. T h e line m o u n ts gradually, with lovely views of lake a n d m o u n ta in to les Avants, shortly afte r w hich it passes under the Col de Jam a n by a tu n n e l of 1 miles, and th en descends to M ontbovon, where it joins th e electric lines of G ru y è re (p. 67) (for detailed information apply to Bureau d e R enseignem ent, M ontreux).
Chamby (2566 ). Hotels a n d Pensions ; junction of th e line from Vevey by Blonay, m entioned above.
L e s A v a n t s aboüe M o n freux.
Les A va n ts (3243'), th e principal station in the V audois section of the
line, at the head of a verdant an d sheltered valley looking southeast. T h e m eadows in M ay are w hite w ith th e fragrant narcissus poeticus ; its cool sum m er clim ate a n d its facilities for skiing, bobsleiging and o th e r w inter sports make it a reso rt a t all seasons of th e year. A cable railway m o u n ts in 5 minutes to th e Col de Sonloup (4000*), and its fam ous toboggan run.
16.2 m . Te r r i t e t the most p o p u lar part of the M o n tre u x agglom eration. In the public gardens by th e English C h u rc h is a m o n u m e n t by C hiattone to the illfated Elizabeth, Em p ress of A ustria.
Te r r i t e t t o Gl i o n. A boldly engineered cable railway, with grade of 57 % , com m anding striking panoram ic views, and edged on eith er side with garden, a floral riband stretch in g th ro u g h vineyards and woods.
Te r r i t e t t o M o n t Fl e u r i, cable railway in 5 m in ute s, startin g from behind the G ra n d Hôte l. H ôte l M o n t Fleuri (1660*) nestled in greenery.
T h e H ochcra J e k a y c
Gl i oN TO THE Ro c h e r s d e Na v e. A rack-and-pinion line 5 m i l e s in 1 h. from M o n treu x station. T h ro u g h -carriag es. We m o u n t gradually through woods and m eadows to C a u x (3670 ). a favourite resort that owes its p o p u larity to its h appy situation on the so u th ern slope of th e m ountain dom inating the lake, its lordly prospect, and su m p tu o u s hotels. F ro m C aux to Jam an we traverse pastures with ab u n d an t flora. F ro m Jam an to N aye th e flora is m ore Alpine, th e surro u n d in g s wilder, with exquisite glimpses of lake and m ountain.
Rochers de N a ye. Hotel R estaurant (station) ( 6 5 7 6 ) sum m it easily reached thence ( 6 8 1 6 ) . T h e whole extent of the lake of G eneva lies at one’s feet; standing ro u n d in a vast circle are the Alps of Vaud, Valais, Savoy and Bern, the Jura and th e m ountains of G ru y ère. T h e A lpine garden, one of the highest in Europe, is a little floral paradise.
Ve y t a u x- Ch i l l o n ( 1 2 7 3 ) w i t h i n a f e w m i n u t e s o f t h e s t a t i o n , o n an isle t rock c o n n e c t e d w i t h t h e s h o r e b y a d r a w b r i d g e , is t h e p i c t u r e s q u e c a s tle
of Chillon, a stronghold of the D ukes of Savoy, and th e prison of Bonivard. Byron, Victor H ugo and Edw ard Q u in et, the historian, sojourned in the neighbourhood.
I 8. m. V l L L E N E U V E (1273 ) an ancient little to w n at the com m encem ent of the flat valley of the Rhone, an im p o rtan t lake-port. C hoice wine.
2 4 . 4 m .— Ai g l e ( 13 8 7 * ) 4 0 0 0 inhabitants. T h e little tow n, dom inated by a fine castle, is pleasantly situ ated am ong vineyards on the left bank of th r G ra n d e Eau, which here issues from th e Vale of O rm o n ts . S u m m e r
and m id-season resort. G o lf Links. T h e wine of the neighbouring
village of Y vorne is m u ch esteemed.
A i c . u . TO L e y s i n , r a c k - a n d - p i m o n e l e c t r i c l in e , 3 1 m i l e s in I h.
I^ysin-Fetjdctj (4 6 9 0 * ) on a su n n y slope, sheltered from th e n o rt'. winds, and commanding splendid views, is very celebrated for its sanatoria. W inter sports.
A ig le . — T h e castle
a large agricultural village, s u rro u n d e d by orchards and meadow's. After th e station o f S 1 Triphon-C are, th e line crosses the R hone, and o n th e o th e r side of th e valley reaches Colombey (1313 ) and th e n M o n th ey (page 35). H e re it connects with th e F ren c h line from Bouoeret to S l M aurice, and c o n ti nues th ro u g h the verdant an d p icturesque Val d ’lliez to Cham péry.
POSTAL Ca r r i a g e- Ro u t e. A isle to Corbeyrier, 6 % miles in 2 h. 10 m in.
W e pass th ro u g h Y v o m e and its famous vineyards, an d m o u n t by a wooded vale to the village of Corbeyrier (3045 ) a charm ing resort for both su m m er and w inter.
El e c t r i c Ra i l w a y Ai g l e- Se p e y- Di a b l e r e t s, and postal carriage in su m m e r from D iablerets to G staad (statio n on th e M o n tre u x -O b e rla n d rail way) by th e Col d u Pillon (5173 ), 29.4 m m . in 8 h.
7 m. L e Sepey (3503 ) th e principal village of the vale of O rm o n t. Diablc-
rets (O rm ont-dessus) (3876 ) a m uch frequented su m m e r and w inter resort.
L e s D iablerets.
separates the em b o u ch u res of th e Avançon a n d the G ry o n n e into the plain. Prettily situated w ith lovely views. T h e re are m any visitors in s u m m e r ; saline and sea-w ater b aths and considerable industries.
Fr o m Be x TO Ch e s iÈRES by G ry o n , electric railway, 8 ' ó m . in I h. 27 m in A t the entrance of th e vale of Frenicres is th e station of F onta n a z-S eu la z, whence we m o u n t by road to th e charm ing s u m m e r resort of les Plans. T h e n the train clim bs to G ryon (3280 ) a p retty village scattered along th e ridge that rises betw een th e G ry o n n e and th e A vançon. A t short intervals, we arrive successively a t A rvcyes (4107*), Villars (4186*) and Chesières (4066 ) all m uch frequented in su m m e r for their fine air and pleasant walks by meadow, m o u n tain and forest, and in w inter for skiing, skating and tobog- ganning. R ack -an d -p in io n railway from V illars to Bretaye (5820 ) w hence we can walk up C ham ossairc (6940 ) in an hour.
Po s t- Ca r r i a g ef r o m Be xt o l e s Pl a n s b y F renicres 5.4 m .
Les Pl a n s (3670 ), where the carriage road th ro u g h the vale that runs up towards the G ra n d M u v eran and th e G lacier des M artin e ts ends.
H ex.
is a m uch freq u en ted su m m e r station, rom antically situated by th e ru s h ing Avançon.
A fter Bex th e line approaches th e R hone ; on th e o th e r side of the river is th e F r en c h line from G e n e v a ; o u r line crosses to join it; th e valley suddenly narrows to a rocky gorge ; a bold bridge spans the straiten ed stream w ith a single arch ; we have a m o m entary glimpse of an ancient little city, a rushing river, a rock-walled valley and tow ering peaks, a n d passing th ro u g h a tunnel u n d e r a n tiquated fortifications, arrive at S l M au rice (p. 38).
VI. F rom G eneva to S ain t M aurice along the Southern shore o f the lake
S tatio n G eneva-F.aux-Vives (or Vollandes).
3.7 m . An n e m a s s e, a small to w n at th e junction of the lines from Chablais a nd from th e Arve valley (C h am om x-M ont-B lanc-S alvan a nd M artig n y ) (p.40).
Pillars sur O llo n .
2 2 . 5 m . TH ONON l£S Ba i n s ( 1 4 0 0 ) , a to w n of 6 , 0 0 0 i n h a b i t a n t s o n a
«nail plateau overlooking the lake. F o r m e r capital of C h a b l a i s .
From T h o n o n a road runs u p the valley of the D rance. with branches to Valais by th e C ol d e M orgins (open to autom obiles) and by th e Col d r Coux above C ham péry.
2 8 m. Ev i A N L E S B a i n s , a small to w n of 3 , 0 0 0 inhabitants on hills r is in g
in a crescent from th e lake: on its fine quay are a th eatre and casino. T h e baths are from cold bicarbonate sp n n g s. Besides the boats that ply u p and down the lake, th ere is a special service betw een Evian and O uchy, the port of Lausanne.
40 m . SA IN ! C l N G O L P H (1,255 ), a large village, which th e im petuous Morge descending to th e lake betw een the Pic d e B lanchard and the G ra m m o n t divides into tw o parts, th e first F ren c h w ith 600 inhabitants, the second Swiss with 769. T h e Railway station is on th e F ren c h side ; on the Sw iss side is a custom house. Each nationality has a wharf on the lakr. T h e um brageous
O n th« M o n lh e u -C h a m p é r y -X Io r g in s line
c hesnut groves a ro u n d make it a pleasant su m m e r resort. T h e re are boat building yards for th e beautiful lateen sailed craft th at ply for traffic on the lake.
41 m. L e Bo u v e r e t(1253*) w ith a roadstead in the bay form ed between the delta of th e R hone a n d th e ju ttin g base of th e G ra m m o n t. W e e n te r th e flat valley of th e R hone, form erly p a rt of the lake, th e retreat of w hich w ithin historic times is recorded by th e village of P o rt Valais, th e R o m an p o rt, now
1
V2
miles in land. F a rth e r on to th e right, opposite th e bridge from Valais to V aud, the old castle of th e P orte d u Scex guards th e e n tran ce to th e Valaisan plain.45.6 m . VouvRY (1303*), a prosperous village o n the alluvial cone of the Fossaux at the o pening of a wooded ravine, which ru n s up to th e Pas-de-V er- naz a n d the Vale of A bondance. Large electn c works deriving th eir motive power from th e lake o f T anay, a pleasant su m m er resort, th at lies above in a picturesque dell (4733 ) betw een th e G ra m m o n t and th e C o rn ettes de Bise.
For 5 miles the line keeps a straight course across th e plain to C olom bey, passing on th e rig h t Vionnoz w ith a n o ld an d a new c h u rch , h ig h er above are
Torgon and Revcrculaz, a s u m m e r resort ; th en in th e plain M u r a z and C olom ba/ (p. 30) a n d finally o n a little shady plateau the A sylum of M alévoz, devoted
to the mentally afflicted.
50.6 m. M oNT H FY (1433 ), a m a nufacturing tow n of 4.500 in habitants, built on the alluvial deposits of the Vièze, which as it issues from the Val d liiez is spanned by a roofed wooden bridge ; a fine position th at th e stream has hollowed o ut in the slopes th a t rise on one side to th e peak o f B el
levue (6803 ) on th e o th er to th e D e n t de Valerettes (6873*) a s p u r of the D e n t d u M id i. F ac tories of glass, chemical p ro d u cts and soap.
C h a m p é ru in winter.
Fr o m Mo n t h e y t o
Ch a m pÉr y. Electric rail way, c onnected w ith li nes from Bouveret to S l M aurice, and from. Aigle to M o n th ey , 8 m. in 1 h.
T h e line ru n s along the n o rth o f th e tow n and th en passes th ro u g h g ro ves of chesnuts, strew n w ith h u g e granite b o u l ders b orne by vanished glaciers to this limestone
district from th e chain of M o n t Blanc. E rratic blocks. T h e view extends across th e valley of th e R hone, to Bex, Villars C hesières and th e M uverans. A fter crossing th e p ic tu re sq u e gorge of th e T i n e we pass th ro u g h a tunnel a n d arrive at.
3.6 m . Trois Torrents (2563 ) o n a s p u r of m o u n tain above th e junction
of th e T i n e a n d th e Viège.
Po s t a l Ca r r i a g e from T ro is T o r re n ts to M o r fin s 8.2 m . in 2 h. 40 min. Looking back as we ascend, th e crenelated wall of th e D e n t d u M idi grows ever m ore im posing.
M orçins les B ains (4480 ). Chalybeate springs, su m m e r and w inter sports.
T h e road, w hich is o pen to autom obiles, continues to th e Pas de M orgins (4600 ) and d escends to Abondance and Thonon.
5.5 m . V al (Tliie z (3155*) an agricultural village with im p o rtan t fairs.
As we ro u n d a s p u r of hill on w hich stands a lofty crucifix, we have before us an am p h ith eatre of m ountains, and see C h am p ery lying am id green mea dows w hich in spring are gay with golden daffodils.
8 m . C ham péry (3490 ) a favourite resort th at has g row n m u ch of late years. T h e native population of 800, of a fine stu rd y type, pecu liar an d inte resting, are au g m en ted , all th e y ear ro und, by visitors w hose n u m b ers d u rin g the season rise to 2.500. T h e s e find a variety of attractions, including 10 tennis courts, a n d num ero u s rambles, excursions and ascents. In w inter there are good skiing grounds, a skating rink of over 10,000 square yards, and facilities for all sports of th e season.
A fter M o n th ey the line approaches the R hone at th e base of the slope from C hoex. whose p icturesque sp ire and hom esteads m ay be seen bow ered in the chesnut groves above. T h e line loins th at from Lausanne, and passes through the tu n n el u n d e r th e castle of S t M aurice, (p. 38)
VII. F rom G eneva to B ou veret by the lake
In sum m er-tim e m any travellers prefer to do the distance from G eneva to Villeneuve o r Bouveret by the lake By the quickest boats th e jo urnev can be m ade in 4 Vó hours and is, in fine weather, a delight from beginning to end. T h e lake of G eneva, o r lac L em an, if not th e most oicturesque of the Swiss lakes is the largest and most ench an tin g ; its intensely light blue waters mirror prosperous towns and villages, the m ost varied vegetation and, at its upper end, an im posing girdle of m ountains. It is one of th e largest sheets of water in Europe, the area being a bout 224 square miles. T h e d e p th , which varies m uch in different parts, attains a m axim um o f 1095* betw een O uchy and Evian. Its breadth, which also v an es m uch, is g reatest, 8 * •_> miles, betw een Morges and A m phion. T h e railway line from G eneva to Villeneuve which runs along its n o rth ern shore is 56 m iles long.
T h e passenger traffic is catered for by saloon boats of the C om pagnie Generale de Navigation (H ead q u a rte rs at L au san n e , Office at G eneva Official guide supplied o n application). Its score of boats are provided with comfortable saloons, first class restau ran t, and every o th e r convenience
After passing betw een the tw o breakw aters that sh elter the port of G eneva the azure sheet before us w idens and, one after another, we pass the various places already described : th ere is N yo n , w ith its quays, its castle towers, and its pile of hillside houses, m irro red in th e tran q u il w aters; veering across to the French shore, th ere is the fortified ham let of Y voire, still w atched over by its massive keep ; th ere is Thonon the ancient capital of Chablais, faithfully guarding the little fishing su b u rb of Rives stretched along the w ater s edge below it ; then there is E via n les B ains, th e fashionable resort of the French sh o re ; looking back, as we cross again, we see Ralle b e h in d its green islet,
Morges lapped in its green plain, and finally Lausanne, sloping u p in p ic tu
resque irregularity from th e lake, half hiding in th e folds of its hills a hum an hive of 75,000 souls.
S a i n t M a u ric e a n d th e D e n t d u M id i.
O n the u p p e r lake we find V evey, M o n treu x, T e rrite t, Villeneuve, th a t are stretch in g o ut tow ards one an o th e r till h ardly a yard of this favoured shore is left u n b u ilt u pon, and, now th at all its bays an d headlands are occupied, the heights beh in d , seam ed w ith rack -an d -p in io n and cable railways, are step by step being annexed from base to sum m it.
T h e usual ports of debarcation for travellers going to th e S im p lo n are, Bou- veret for the line o n the south shore of the lake, and Villeneuve for th at o n the no rth ; th e tim e tables of th e principal boats correspond w ith those of the tram s, and o n th e Swiss side tram and boat tickets are in terchangeable ; as has b een said, th e tw o lines join at S l M aurice.
V ili S a in t M aurice
32. m . from Lausanne. 13 m . from Bouveret.
T h i s little town of 2.200 inhabitants owes its historical im portance to its position at one the narrow est defiles of th e Alps. Its nam e com m em orates
M a rtig n u . — F ro m la B â t i a z
the com m ander of the T h e b a n legion, w ho according to tradition suffered m artyrdom h ere w ith his m en in th e massacre of christians ordered by th e E m peror Maxim ian. T h e m otto over the to w n hall claims that it has been Christ ian since A. D . 52. T h e abbey, which had great im portance in feudal tim es, has a romanesque tow er o f th e X c en tu ry , b u t th ere are remains of m uch earlier building. T h e sacred tre a su re is one of th e richest in Sw itzerland. From the fine bridge over the R hone one can m o u n t in 10 m inutes to th e G ro tte des Fees, a stalactite cavern w ith a stream and waterfall, lit by electricity.
1 l/ i m . farth er u p , o n th e o p p o site b ank of th e R hone, arc the baths of
L a v q j, where there is a h o t saline spring im pregnated with su lp h u r, b u t in
which th e principal tre a tm e n t is th a t of b a th s o f h ot, dry, sand from th e bed of the R hone. F a r above are th e forts of Savatan and Dailly.
36. m . Ev i o n n a z AND Co l l o n g e s, agricultural villages. F u r th e r on. to the right the S*lanfe pours dow n 215 feet in the fine cascade of the Pis- sevache. In front towers th e majestic G ra n d C om bin.
C h a m o n ix a n d M o n l- B la n c .
m . Ve r n aYAZ (1535) Visit the waterfall and the G orges du T rie n t. A driving road that m o unts in m any zigzags, and the m ountain railway that starts from M artigny, lead by Sal van to C ham onix. T h e view of th e valley broadens as we ascend ; high above on the right the Pierre à V oir stands like .in obelisk ; in the distance o n the left, gleam the snow-clad Bernese Alps.
IX. F rom M artigny to C ham onix, to the Grand S ain t Bernard and to Sion
41 * 2 m. Ma r t i g n y (1560 ) which u n d e r the names of O c to d u ru m and Fo ru m C lau d u was the R om an capital of the valley of the Rhone.
hxcavation has bro u g h t to light fragm ents of b ronze statuary (now in the C antonal M u se u m at Sion ; facsimiles in the Hotel de Ville (M artig n y ) and remains of extensive building. At a spot known as le Vivier, near the station of M artigny-O rsières, a circular wall em erging from the soil records the
exis-L a c C h a m p e x a n d th e G r a n d Conibin.
tence of a theatre. T h e to w n is dorr.mated b y th e T o u r de la Batiaz, th e re mains of an old castle originally built by the counts of Savoy, which passed later to the bishopric of Sion, and was b u rn t in 1518 by the ad h eren ts of Georges Supersaxo.
T h e population of M artigny and its environs is over 6000, it merges into M artigny-Bourg, which is connected w ith the station by tram w ay, and is the point of d e p artu re of roads to C ham onix by the T ê te N oire, and to Aosta by the great S* B ernard (licensed for m o to r traffic) to Lake C ham pex by the gorges du D u rn a n d , to the Col des Planches and d u L ein and to the Vallée de Bagnes and the Val Ferrex (F o r details consult the guide books of the Société de Développement).
From Ma r t i g n y t o Ch a m o n i x, b y Salvan, F in h au ts, and C hâtelard To Châtelard 11.7 m. in 2 h. Cham onix, 4 h. Service ceases d u rin g winter.
T h e electric line starts from M artigny m am station, b u t has a town station in the Rue des H ôtels. It crosses the D rance a n d runs, mostly on the high
road, to V ernayaz (station). A fte r crossing th e T r ie n t at th e entrance to the famous gorges, it m o u n ts by rack- an d -p in io n to the plateau of Salvan (8260 feet o f rail. 6380 on a grade of 2 0 ° ,,) it passes th ro u g h tu n n els and o ver bridges w ith successive views o v e r the valley of the R hone ; th e n ov er slopes, som etim es sm iling, som e times wild, till suddenly to th e east we see th e G ra n d C o m b in rising am id a host of lesser peaks.
5 m. S a lo a n (3 1 2 0 ) a O n I h t M a r lig n u - C h â U la r d lin , ^ v l l l a « e ’
8
C C n t r C {° 'excursions a n d ascents, m uch frequented in su m m er. In its m idst is a large erratic b o u ld er w ith p re historic sculpture.
6 m . Les M arccottcs (3440*) a little g ro u p of chalets a n d pensions
sequestered am ong orchards. W in ter sports.
T h e line a n d th e road g radually ascend am ong rocks scored by old glaciers, th en descend and cross the p ictu resq u e G orges d u Triège, which can be visited by a wooden gallery.
5.7. m. Triqucnt (3540*) a ham let w ith hotel and pensions, o n th e steep m ountain side, just beyond the gorge.
T h e scenery becom es wild and im pressive; after passing th ro u g h th e tu n n el of L achat, th e line is terraced over a dizzy h eight.
F in h a u l.
6.7 m. F inhaut (4120') village of chalets and hotcl-pensions scattered on a slope that looks dow n on th e confluence of th e u p p e r T r ie n t a nd th e E au N oire.
Beyond the verdant hollow th at em bosom s the village of T r ie n t, glitters the Rlacier of the same nam e, presided over by the rounded cupola of the Aiguilles Dorées.
From F inhaut the line descends to w ards the Eau N oire, passing below the hamlet of G iétroz, a frequented su m m e r resort w ith m u ch th e same excursions as Finhaut.
11.2. m . C hâtelard-Villagc and C hâtelard-Trient, n e ig hbouring stations (3720*) the last with a buffet ; here the road th at has accom panied o u r line joins that from M artigny to C ham onix, by T r ie n t and th e T ê te N oire. A m ong excursions from F in h an t m ust be n u m b e re d th a t to th e u p p e r valley of the Trient with its su p erb glacier, and to the Col de Bal me, the grandest route for pedestrians going to C ham onix from th e valley of the R hone
-M o n t B l a n c a n d the P o n t S a in te -M a rie , — P . L . -M line.
ges, travellers change to th e trains of the P .-L .-M . and in less th an tw o hours traverse th e tu n n el of les M o n tets and passing Argentière, arrive at Ch a m o n i x.
Fr o m Ma r t iGNY TO Se m b r a n c h e r and O rsières (valleys of Bagnes, of the G ra n d S ' B ern ard , and of F errex, 12 m . 40 m in. to S em b ran ch er, I h. to Orsières.)
T h e train halts at M artigny-ville (O c to d u re S tation) at M artigny-B ourg and at th e so uthern edge of the to w n at the statio n of la C roix. T h e n c e it runs along th e rocky p ro m ontory of C hem in, on the left bank of th e D ra n c e .
4.4 m . Les V alettes. H ence a d riv in g road leads to C ham pex. P edestrians may go through th e Gorges du D urnand, w hich are singularly beautiful, and at the u p p e r end rejoin the road to C ham pex.
5. m . Bovem ier (2070*). T w o parallel tunnels, one for the line the other for the road, lead to the lonely defile of la M onnaie. A t its eastern end a great dam on the D ra n c e d iverts along the m ountain side the w ater that furnishes motive force for the electrochem ical works of M artig n y -B o u rg
8.1. m . Sembrancher (2400*), an ancient b u rg h , chef-lieu of th e district of E ntrem onts, at th e ju n c tio n of th e valleys o f E n tre m o n t and B agnes, enscon ced between th e D ran ce a n d S l Jean , a foothill of th e p yram id of C atogne.
From Sembrancher to Châble. 3.0 m . a n d to Lourtier, 7.5. m . postal carriage
in 2 !/2 h.
3.1 m. Châble (2787*), an extensive rural village, chef-lieu of a com m une, which comprises th e whole valley, and has a p opulation of m ore th an 4,000. T h ere is a late XIV c e n tu ry c h u rch , an d a small castle g u ard in g th e b rid g e over the D rance. C en tre fo r excursions in the valley below an d the Mayens de B ru sons and d e V erbier. Extensive open slopes below th e P ierre à Voir for w inter sp o rts.
8.5. m . Lour tier (3447*) th e last village of th e valley, a s u m m e r resort, at the term ination of the carriage road.
T h e D rance rages dow n rapids, o r leaps in riotous cascades ; a fter th a t of Vinzier, the discharge of th e huge glacier of C orbassière joins it, descending on the right in pictu resq u e waterfalls.
1 h. 30 m . Fionnay, a favourite su m m e r station, s u rro u n d ed by verdure and forests, between th e steep buttresses of the G ra n d C o m b in and th e Rosa- Blanche. H ig h er u p is th e p icturesque bridge of M au v o isin , 100 feet above the straitened D rance.
3 h. M auvoisin (6080*) a small u n d u la tin g plateau lying high above the gorge ; a good centre for excursions. Soon after, we pass by the striking cascade of the glacier of G iétroz. Blocks of ice fallen from it have at different times dam m ed u p the D ra n c e, and the b u rstin g forth of the lake th u s formed has wrought terrible havoc along the whole length of th e valley.
3*/2 h. from M auvoisin, we reach th e plateau of Chanrion. H e re is a cabin of the Alpine club (8015*) situated in th e m idst of one of th e grandest panora mas of the inner A lps. Ranged ro u n d , as an am p hitheatre, are the glaciers th at separate the m ighty peaks of th e G ra n d C o m bin, Ple u re u r. R uinette, the Point d Otemma, Epicoun, M o n t G elé and M o n t Avril, f h e road to Valpellina
a n d A osta passes over th e Col d e F en être-d e-B alm e (9280 ) betw een the tw o last.
A fte r S e m b ra n c h e r th e line traverses tw o successive tu n n els a n d enters th e narrow defile c u t fo r itself b y th e D ran ee d ’E n trem o n t.
12 m . Orsicres (1990*) a large b u rg h stretch ed along th e banks o f th e D rance betw een cultivated slopes, at th e junction of th e tw o D ra n c es of the Ferrex and E n tre m o n t valleys. Its rom anesque belfry bears witness to its existence th ro u g h at least ten centuries.
A d riving road ru n s from the station to C ham pex (4880 ) which m ay be reached in less th an 2 hours. A n en ch a n tin g s u m m e r a n d w in ter resort by a little m o u n tain lake, w ith fine excursions a n d ascents in th e n e ig hbourhood.
A n o th e r d riv in g road runs u p th e v erd an t Vale o f F errex along th e base of the foothills of M o n t Blanc.
8* /2 m . (I h . 3 0 m .). P ra z-d e-F o rt (3820*)a pleasant su m m e r resort near to th e dale o f Saleinaz, w hence ice, slid d o w n in tro u g h s from th e glacier of th e sam e n am e, is exp o rted . H en ce one has th e choice o f tw o routes to C o u r m ayeur, b y th e Col of G ra n d F errex (8480 ) or* by th at o f Petit F errex (8293*( t h e latter is th e shorter, b u t a less attractive and m ure difficult route. T h e lofty Col d e F e n ê tre (9000 ) leads to th e G reat S 1 Bernard.
Fr o m Or s i è r e s t o Gr a n d S* Be r n a r d 16 l/ 2 m . in 8 V2 h. b y postal carriage from l 8t Ju ly to 30 S ep tem b er. In w inter as far as B ourg S l Pierre. F ro m O rsière the road m o unts the side o f the valley in long curves to 5. m.
Liddes, ch ef lieu of the com m une. Filling th e b ackground is M o n t Vélan.
8. m . Bourg S l Pierre, a village seated at th e m o n th of th e Valsorey, a to r ren t th a t descends betw een th e buttresses of th e G ra n d C o m b in and M o n t Vélan. F in e rom anesque belfry o f th e X century. B uilt into a wall near, is a R om an m ilestone. C rossing a bold bridge, the road rounds a hill w here has been laid o ut a n A lpine gard en , la Linnæa, with botanical laboratory, by the S o ciété p o u r la protection des plantes, and in I hour reaches th e C antine de Proz (6070 ). A fter th at it threads th e defiles of the u p p e r valley in num erous zig-zags.
