Applying the principles of sustainable development in the leather industry in Morocco: Tannery case

Applying the principles of sustainable development in the leather industry in Morocco: tannery case

Meryem Aziz Alaoui*

Laboratory of Electrochemistry and Environmental Chemistry, Faculty of Sciences,

University Hassan II Ain Chock,

P.O. Box 5366, Maarif, Casablanca, Morocco E-mail: meryem.aaziz@gmail.com

*Corresponding author

Mohammed Ezzine

Laboratory of Materials Thermostructural and Polymers, Faculty of Science,

University Hassan II Mohammedia, Ben-Sik – Casablanca,

Av.Hassan II – B.P 150, 150 – Casablanca, Morocco E-mail: m_ezzine@menara.ma

Mohammed Azzi

Laboratory of Electrochemistry and Environmental Chemistry, Faculty of Sciences,

University Hassan II Ain Chock,

P.O. Box 5366, Maarif, Casablanca, Morocco E-mail: azzimed@yahoo.fr

E-mail: m.azzi@fsac.ac.ma

Abstract: Tanning is the intermediate stage in production of leather products and it is the most negative aspect in terms of industrial pollution in the leather sector in Morocco. At present, the main concern of tanning units is the consideration of sustainable development in the competitive modernisation of this sector whose added value is important for the national economy. The introduction of the profitable environmental management (PREMA

) tools (GTZ, P3U, 2006) in tannery units, has achieved a triple win: economic, environmental and socio-organisational. The dynamics efficiency gains and the quantitative results presented have motivated the company to engage in sustainable development path.

Keywords: leather; tannery; profitable environmental management; PREMA

; sustainable development; Morocco.

Reference to this paper should be made as follows: Aziz Alaoui, M., Ezzine, M. and Azzi, M. (2012) ‘Applying the principles of sustainable development in the leather industry in Morocco: tannery case’, Int. J.

Environment and Sustainable Development, Vol. 11, No. 2, pp.180–193.

Biographical notes: Meryem Aziz Alaoui holds a Master in Science and Technology, with focus in environment from the University of Le Havre, France. She also holds a Master from the Institute of Business Administration from Rouen. Back in Morocco, she worked as an Engineer at the Ministry of Industry. She has also been a Consultant for UNIDO. This research work is part of the ongoing PhD in University of Sciences – Aïn Chock in Casablanca.

Meanwhile, she worked with German Technical Cooperation in Morocco as a Technical Advisor. She has acted as speaker at various national and international events related to sustainable development: (UNEP/Tanzania, 2003), (New York, 2006), in 2009 she presented part of her work at the European Union in Brussels. Currently, her main task consists in adapting and developing new support services for very small businesses, including services that fall within a sustainable development approach.

Mohammed Ezzine is a Professor of Chemistry and Environmental Management at Hassan II University Mohammedia-Casablanca. He is also a certified Consultant Facilitator of Profitable Environmental and Chemicals Management. He holds a doctorate in Analytical Chemistry (1994) and a PhD in Physico-Chemistry (1998). He has published over 50 scientific articles and co-supervised ten doctorates. Since 2000, he focused on management tools related to the environment. He collaborated with several organisations in the framework of national and international programmes and he is regularly involved in development of new concepts and conducts research works in the field of sustainable development.

Mohammed Azzi is currently a Professor at King Hassan II University (Faculty of Sciences). He is the Head of Interface Material-Environment Laboratory.

The laboratory is working on some subject and field about environment and waste treatment, analytical and electro analytical chemistry. He published more than 50 publications in international journals about different field of investigations (electrochemistry, corrosion, environment, industrial wastewater treatment…). He is also the Head of master training related to ‘waste management and valorisation’.

1 Introduction

Like other emerging countries, and regarding the globalisation, Morocco engaged on the

path of its economic modernisation which was protected for a long time. The signing of

various free trade agreements with the European Union, the Arab countries and the

USA requires compliance with international commitments particularly in terms of norms

and standards related, among others, to respect of values carried by the sustainable

development concept. This economic opening is a true catalyst for this national will to

initiate change, especially in the industrial field. The leather sector, particularly the

tannery subject of our work, is directly concerned by this economic potential but also

because of the nature of the polluting activity tannery. Socio-economical specificity and

environmental impact of tanning activity are of considerable interest in supporting the

sector towards sustainable development. Based on this observation and having as

objective the modernisation of the sector, we present in this work the leather sector in

Morocco with a focus on the tannery where a case study of integrating development

sustainability principles will be addressed, particularly through the profitable

2 Leather sector in morocco

Despite the difficulties currently facing the sector, the leather work is ancestral tradition in Morocco. Indeed, the reputation of Morocco’s leather processing is well done thanks to the traditional know-how and the availability of skilled labour and use of advanced technology.

Statistical studies show that the leather industry is globally competitive industry and occupies an important place in the processing industries. According Federation of Leather Industries (FEDIC, 2010), the number of companies is currently about 360 units including small crafts industries and some informal structures. The sector employs a workforce of 17,000, with a turnover of €232 million and €80 million as added value.

Investments are favourable and are estimated at €13 million. The export turnover is 187 million. The main export market is Europe because of its geographical proximity.

The main activities identified by the Ministry of Trade and Industry (MCI, 2009) are as follows: shoes that represents 66% market share, followed by tanning with 25% then the fancy-leather goods with 9% (see Figure 1), it also includes luggage and leather garments.

Figure 1 Turnover by activity in the leather sector in Morocco (see online version for colours)

Source: MCI (2009)

Upstream, the leather industry depends on the breeding and slaughter for the supply of basic raw materials, namely the skin. For all phases of its transformation, it also depends on certain manufacturing industries as chemical and para-chemical for the treatment of skin (tanning), textiles, metal goods, rubber and plastic to the ornament and dressing various leather products.

Currently, the challenge for the Moroccan leather industry is the exploitation of

opportunities to integrate upstream and downstream through the knowledge of the value

chain (see Figure 2) (Aziz Alaoui et al., 2010) allowing valorisation of raw materials and

diversified manufacturing of leather goods according to international standards and

criteria for sustainable development in particular those relating to higher environmental

standards in tannery sector.

Figure 2 Value chain of the leather industry in Morocco (see online version for colours)

3 Tannery sector in Morocco

In the process of competitive modernisation of the Moroccan economy, the situation of the leather industry, especially the tanning industry is a concern because of the economic weight it represents and the challenges it faces. According to statistics from the Ministry of Industry (MCI, 2009), tanning consists of 60 industrial units representing about 22.5%

of the leather industry, 70% of tanneries for processing skins of sheep and goats and 30%

for the processing of ovine skin. However, the informal sector is large and does not appear in official statistics. This is why these figures may vary.

According to the same source, tanning represents 36.6% in terms of production and 34.8% for exports from the sector. However, it contributes only a 12.5% for employment and 12.3% for investment. These last two quantities, in addition to the turnover and value added are declining in the best cases stagnating.

From a development strategy point of view, tannery’s integration is facing a fundamental problem both in the absence of structure for the collection of skins in the upstream processes, and practices of some operators in the sector. This makes the possibilities of pricing and quotations for raw skins particularly opaque (EME, 2003).

Furthermore, it should be noted that during the mad cow crisis in Europe, there was an increase in demand for wet-blue causing the imbalance of total industry already poorly organised. Furthermore, it should be noted that during the mad cow crisis in Europe, there was an increase in demand for wet blue causing a total imbalance in the industry previously non-organised.

However, for nearly five years, professionals have been engaged in a process of

competitive modernisation because even the imperatives of sustainable development,

improvement of economic magnitudes, better integration of the social dimension and especially the gradual introduction of significant improvements in environmental field.

4 Tanning industry and sustainable development

The types and concentrations of the chemicals used in the pre-treatment, tanning, and finishing stages of production vary. Chromium is one of the most widely used chemicals throughout this process. However, other raw materials used in this process can include limestone soda ash, sulphuric acid, and sodium chlorate. The wastewater effluent from tanneries can be a dangerous source of pollutants, and often contains dissolved and suspended organic and inorganic solids, potentially toxic metal salts, chrome, and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and sulphide (Jenkins et al., 2004).

In industry, awareness of sustainable development is progressing more and more.

This increase is clearly felt in industries considered to be highly polluting as the case of the tannery. In fact, tanning is the largest industry in the world based on a ‘by-product’.

Between years 60 and 80 of the last century, there was a substantial relocation of production of leather from industrialised countries to developing countries (CFC, 2004).

Currently, in terms of market share, Europe remains a major player in the global leather industry (CNC, 2009), despite the new obstacles and challenges which the international industry professionals face.

However, according to same statistics, the worldwide market share of the European Union is falling sharply and this because the substantial relocation of leather production to other parts of the world, as Asia and USA and to a lesser extent in Africa.

This was mainly due to two factors:

• the rising cost of labour

• instructions increasingly strict in term of environmental protection and additional costs including pollution abatement.

Morocco, like other emerging countries has benefited for a while at least socio-economic windfall. In fact, since the early ‘80s, the tanning industry has played an important role in the national economy as well as for processing and export, despite the lack of organisation in the sector.

In Morocco, a study analysing potential leather sector (EME, 2003) has shown that this imbalance has resulted in a lack of competitiveness of Moroccan products in the international market. Therefore, a complete restructuring of the leather industry from upstream to downstream is becoming urgent and inevitable and that to face the multiple challenges of globalisation.

The tannery, highly polluting and main activity of the upstream, is a hot-spot for the leather industry. The standardisation of this sector requires not only consideration of environmental aspects and requirements in the normative terms but also an intervention from the collection process skins. Its control will help tanners offer a quality product complies with national and international outsourcers.

Based on this observation, the implementation of a proactive and integrated strategy

of modernisation and its adaptation at all levels taking into account the imperatives of

sustainable development is needed.

Different levels of intervention are recommended. In our current work, we focus on the introduction of an integrated management tool for sustainable development in companies namely PREMA

(GTZ, P3U, 2006). For this, a tanning unit has been chosen for the practical application of the principles of PREMA

principles.

5 PREMA

application in a tannery unit

As mentioned above, PREMA

, stands for profitable environmental management, is a complete programme based on a set of modules combining training and practices (GTZ, P3U, 2006). This programme was developed and registered as part of development programmes of the German Technical Cooperation (GTZ). It is intended primarily to micro, small and medium-sized and even big companies as well as for enterprises of supply chain or industrials areas. PREMA

aims to maximise corporate profits by reducing the negative environmental impacts and production costs. The implementation of such programme guarantees the company a triple benefit by acting on the three pillars of sustainable development: economic, environmental and social issues. It aims at practically identifying, developing and implementing measures designed to substantially:

• reduce production costs

• improve environmental performance

• enhance organisational capabilities, health and occupational safety.

PREMA

cycle time requirements range from three days, as introduction, to an engagement for up to eight months. Its purpose is to integrate the participatory approach and continuous improvement within the company through educational training tools, network meetings that promote exchange between participants and site visits that allow for diagnoses and develop action plans for continuous improvement.

5.1 Methodological approach of PREMA

programme application

The programme is modular and flexible (see Figure 3) so that the various tools and methods can be combined or adjusted to suit the specific requirements of each group of companies or type of institutional client. The full PREMA

programme consists of several instruments to introduce an integrated, effective and profitable management system in (groups of) companies.

By adequately taking into consideration these three components, i.e., cost management, environmental management and organisational learning, a triple win can be achieved (key element 1). PREMA

offers this triple win to companies through:

• a systemic approach for the quick identification of problems, their impact and causes, as well as easy-to-implement measures in the field of quality, environment and workplace safety/social issues

• a systematic analysis of improvements potentials through the non-product output

(NPO) approach (key element 2)

Figure 3 Global scheme of implementation PREMA

programme (see online version for colours)

Note: *SMC’s: small and medium-sized companies

The main modules of PREMA

programme are as follows:

5.1.1 Resource management module

Resource management module (RMM

) motivates entrepreneurs to make rational use of resources (water, raw materials and energy) through a careful examination of the daily operations of the enterprise through:

• planning and organisation of work, production, generation of waste and production costs…

• know-how to use flow-charts for the identification of weaknesses in the production process

• ability to transfer ideas into practical changes in their own company

• become members of a network to assist each other in improving resource use in their companies.

According to the desired impact and the degree of investigation, RMM

can be realised both in half-day and three days.

5.1.2 Good housekeeping module

This module is an introduction to the methodology and the interest of companies to use

different PREMA

tools. The implementation of this module allows companies:

• to identify practices that are economically inefficient and with a negative impact on the environment

• to achieve early and quickly cost savings, environmental improvements and organisational measures

• to implement concrete measures with a minimum of external consulting.

Good housekeeping module (GHK

) facilitates the future deployment of more complex activities in environmental profitable management.

The application of GHK

in companies takes four-days workshop, including half-day company visit.

It is important to note that GHK

can be performed in conjunction with other environmental management tools such as cleaner production (CP) (reference) or the ISO 14001 certification.

5.1.3 Environment-oriented cost management module

The environment-oriented cost management module (EoCM

) is a more complex tool of PREMA

. It enables companies to achieve a triple win:

• great reduce of the visible and hidden costs of production that are generated by the NPO, i.e., any output (water, energy, raw material...) which does not form part of the final product

• reduce the environmental impact caused by the company and also promote the internal change process.

As a part of modular PREMA

programme, there will be a three-day workshop EoCM

in companies, including a visit to the company. During this phase, enterprises have to allocate personnel to the EoCM

team during the entire process and provide the necessary support by top management.

Overall, the PREMA

project duration goes from three days to eight months. The training programme of the PREMA

is based on creativity and interactivity: it relies on the professional and personal experience of participants and aims to transfer and integrate acquired knowledge and skills in the company. The modular instruments encourage the creation of continuous improvement process, ranging from the introduction of limited changes in the company to the implementation of complex management systems in quality, environment and occupational safety fields.

For our purposes, a group of five companies in the leather sector including a tannery have benefited from a full training including all three phases. This action was carried out thanks to a partnership agreement between the local professional association FEDIC (Leather Industries Federation), the National Agency for the Promotion of Small and Medium Enterprise (ANPME) and the GTZ. In this work, only the results corresponding to the tannery are presented below.

PREMA

tools are a set of the same toolbox. They are independent but

complementary. It allows the companies to advance towards sustainable development in

stages, from the simplest as GHK

to most complexes as EoCM

that focus on analysis

and cost reduction. It is important to note that the whole methodology is based on

research of the ‘NPO’.

5.2 Implementation of PREMA

tools in a tannery

Before applying the PREMA

tools, a sensitisation phase of the company is particularly necessary for the construction of an environmental approach especially when the company is not familiar with the basics of protection environment. Indeed, it is important to explain the challenges of sustainable development for the competitiveness of the company. After understanding the theoretical concept, PREMA

tools allow to translate it into action.

5.3 Tanning company description

Based in the ‘Grand Casablanca’, the tanning company was created in the 1940s and specialised in the manufacture and marketing of leather. Today, this family company is among the largest industrial tanneries in Morocco. Indeed, it employs a workforce of 600 people for an annual average production of 2.1 million square feet of leather, and around €3.2 million turnover. Production is destined for both local market and export.

For purposes of this study, we recorded successively, a monthly consumption of electricity and water equal to 59,250 kWh and 850 m

trough application of PREMA

tools (GTZ, ANPME, 2007).

5.4 PREMA

environmental approach application

The environmental approach of PREMA

application consists on developing the needed tools to reduce the environmental impact of company activities while satisfying the production imperatives and thus ensure sustainable development. Our assistance has been to highlight the losses of income in the case of status quo, and show the close correlation between economic, which concerned the first entrepreneur, socio-organisational and in fine environmental issues. To do this, several steps were followed starting with the visit on site which enabled us to evaluate company strengths and optimisation potentials.

Then, analysing the causes of these weaknesses has helped company develop, implement and evaluate appropriate measures. Throughout this cycle of change, meeting networks are programmed to build the capacity of the company to implement its action plan and achieve its goals in term of PREMA

culture integration. The company has gradually integrated the environmental component by:

• preventing and reducing waste production

• reducing water and energy consumption.

5.5 PREMA

tools application

From the first phase, good housekeeping, of PREMA

application, the identified optimisation potentials are:

• loss in terms of raw materials, namely the skin, at different processing stages

• loss of chemicals

• waste water highly loaded with organic chemicals and heavy metals such as

chromium

• loss of energy (compressor, half loads, lighting …)

• loss of water

• improper storage of products, including finished product (leather) at different process stages

• generation of a large solid waste quantity.

The optimisation potential analysis of the company has allowed managers to develop an action plan with six prior measures; three of them were completely achieved:

• disposal of dead stock of finished leather

• recovery and reuse of chrome tanning salts

• recovery and reuse of water loaded with sodium sulphide.

With these three actions based on PREMA

, the tannery was able to achieve a triple win:

environmental, organisational and economical total net annual savings equivalent to 150,000 Euro.

5.6 Implementation of PREMA

measures

5.6.1 Measure 1: recovery of finished product dead stock 5.6.1.1 Problem

Tanning unit has a storage shed of finished leather, the final step in the production process before marketing. However, it remains in this area a stock of 300,000 square feet of finished leather. This quantity is considered as a dead stock. Our analysis showed that the stored material comes from overproduction and is of a very good quality. Exposure of the leather in the open air alters its texture and dulls its colour, a fact which critically affects its value.

5.6.1.2 Recommended measure

By using PREMA

tools, the company representatives were convinced of the need to value this dead stock on the basis of the sale. So after a thorough diagnosis following the main steps of good housekeeping cycle, two key measures were adopted:

• stripping and finishing hides stored before and selling them at market price

• selling hides in their current state by setting a price and taking into account the duration of storage.

By choosing these two options, the company was able to achieve a triple win:

economical, environmental and socio-organisational. EoCM

analyses the costs and the

environmental impact caused by NPO in the company. It does not take into account the

whole production chain ‘from the cradle to the grave’ and its full costs. Inefficiency and

environmental impacts in raw material production and finished product distribution or

use, are only subject of this method as long as it is part of the company’s business.

1 Economical profit: tanning unit has realised a net annual saving of €132,000 on the basis of a selling price of 0.5 cents per square foot. The implementation of this measure did not cause any additional costs or capital costs.

2 Environmental benefit: illustrated by eliminating the risk of generation of solid waste from leather.

3 Socio-organisational benefit: The removal of dead stock led to the set free the stock area, to improve company’s fame and brand image and enhance organisation of the storage area by eliminating the potential risks that impact on health and occupational safety.

5.6.2 Measure 2: recovery and reuse of chrome tanning salts 5.6.2.1 Problem

The tanning itself is following the step which consists on pickling leather. This is a preliminary process for preparing hides and skins for tanning, largely by adjusting the pH with acid and controlling the swelling with salt. It is also used as stable way of holding material, after unhairing. It occurs mostly in chromium (III) in the following proportions:

about 20 kg/t of chromic anhydride fixed for 50% to 90% in the skin. The next step of rinsing generates dilute solutions of chromium which are discharged into sewers without pre-treatment. Therefore, dropped chromium disperses and pollutes the soil and ducts.

The company has shown willingness to engage in sustainable development aims and reduce its environmental damage.

5.6.2.2 Implemented measure

PREMA

approach allowed us through the application of environmental-oriented cost management tool EoCM

to demonstrate the opportunities related to the production economic process improvement. The recycling of chrome tanning salts consists in collecting this heavy metal solution in a tank for future use as shown in Figure 4. To do this, liquid waste is gathered in a tank and fine filtered; the baths are quantitatively controlled and then added an amount of chromium salts, defined according to the residual concentration of the bath. Note that the bath exhaustion obtained at each cycle is variable depending on the technique used. For bovine hides, the savings in chromium baths can reach 20% of the amount initially introduced.

This measure also allowed the company to achieve a triple benefit:

1 Economical profit: Taking into account all cost element calculation (energy, water, raw materials, labour and depreciation), this measure has generated a brut annual saving of €12,324 distributed over the different cost elements as follows:

• raw materials, including chromium salts (50 kg/d) and water (4 m

/d) which represents an annual gain of €9,050

• labour allocated to water pumping and cleanup of soil and machinery because of discharged wastewater evaluated at €3,274.

The additional costs of €540 are related to the depreciation of the tank, piping, pump

and installation and the total investment is €5,309. Therefore, the net savings

generated by this measure are €11,800 with a payback period of five months.

2 Environmental, health and occupational safety: People can be exposed to the contaminants produced by tanning through various pathways. The most common occupational hazard is inhalation of chromium at the work site. However, the populations near a tannery are often exposed to pollutants through contaminated water. People use the water from contaminated sea water for swimming (mostly children). There is also a high risk of this hazardous waste water mixing with the ground water, which is extracted for drinking water. By adopting this measure, the company was able to:

• remove the chrome spill solutions

• reduce consumption of chromic anhydride

• reduce water consumption

• preserve natural resources.

3 Socio-organisational benefice: The first impact of such measures is directly felt at the image brand of the company; better performance and additional motivation of teams also were noted.

Figure 4 Implementation of recovery and reuse of chrome tanning salts measure, (a) Before/problem: tannery effluent flowing into surface waters

(b) After/solution: tannery effluent collected, adapted and reused in the process (see online version for colours)

(a) (b)

5.6.3 Measure 3: recovery and reuse of water loaded with sodium sulphide 5.6.3.1 Problem

The transformation of the skin into leather goes through different stages, which consist of

removing fat and subcutaneous tissue eventually left at the butchering. Unhairing/liming

is done in the presence of lime and sodium sulphide dissolved in water. At the end of the

operation, these concentrated solutions are thrown back into sewers without any

treatment leading to sulphides contamination. As for chromium (III), the company must

provide a solution to this environmental problem.

5.6.3.2 Implemented measure

The problem is the same as the previous measure; a recovery tank was installed to collect the solution of sodium sulphide for reuse. This measure could generate savings of about 40% sulphide and lime, and 70% water.

The triple win is illustrated as follows:

1 Economical profit: Saving inputs such as sodium sulphide, lime and water, the tannery unit has achieved an annual net benefit of €6,500 resulting from the difference between the gross profit evaluated at €7,385 and the additional costs of

€885 related to the depreciation of the tank, piping, pump and installation. This profit is derived from the consumption reduction of the following raw materials: sodium sulphate (25 kg/d), lime (45 kg/day) and water (12 m

/d). The costs of labour and energy savings have already been considered in the previous measurement (see 5.6.2). The investment cost of this measure is of €8,850 with 16 months payback period.

2 Environmental benefit: The migration of tannery waste waters in different horizons of soil was stopped thanks to the elimination of basic solutions, and the reduction of water consumption, lime and sulphide.

3 Socio-organisational benefit: By reducing chemical handling and improving risk control, the company has thus contributed to a better environment and a better organisational image.

The PREMA

tools are a mode of economic management that considers environmental and social aspects especially workers health and safety, at all levels of company operations, management and production. PREMA

tools do not represent an additional cost factor, but it offers opportunities to manage a company in a more economical, environmental and socio-organisational way.

6 Conclusions

The difficulty of introducing principles of sustainable development in companies

especially in emerging countries is that sustainable development is often seen as a

complex concept. Its declination in tools combining the economic issues of the enterprise

and its socio-environmental responsibility allows a better understanding of the concept

and a best way for its implementation. The tanning industry around the world has

experienced a real relocation from industrialised countries to developing countries,

largely because of environmental constraints related to the activity itself. However, in the

case of Morocco, tanning is part of the country’s history; millennium know-how has been

developed through the centuries. Competitive sector modernisation necessarily involves

the consideration of environmental criteria in particular and sustainable development in

general. Thus, the application of PREMA

as a tool for intervention was to introduce that

concept but also to identify priority actions and relevant action, thus permitting triple and

quantifiable tangible benefits for companies. The case of the tannery has been very

satisfactory and the culture of PREMA

has been incorporated starting with the best

environmental practices, through CP principles and carrying out model calculations of

costs for each of the measure proposed. All these elements serve as an efficient tool for decision making at top management level.

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