I 1 pound of oil (any type will do, the cheaper the better)
I 3 pounds of lard
I 1 pound of coconut oil (semisolid at room temperature)
Never use aluminum with caustics such as lye. It can cause undesirable effects and also be dangerous. Use only stainless steel, enamel-ware, glass, Pyrex, wood, or plastic in the soap-making process.
Some pots and pans may look stainless but are in fact not, so if a magnet won’t stick to it, be aware that it might be aluminum. Some grades of stainless also are not magnetic, but I’m unaware of any of those types being used for pots and pans.
Let’s Start
Making soap base is a
cumbersome task. This method is going to appeal only to the chemistry-minded type of person. If you can’t make brownies from a box mix turn out right, you’d better order some shredded soap rather than attempting to make it yourself.
Put on your gloves and eye protection. Read the warning label on the lye. It is a caustic and dangerous substance. It makes wonderful soap, but it is not your friend and can hurt you.
1. Weigh an empty lightweight plastic container first, and adjust the scale to zero. Weigh out 32 ounces (907 grams) of ice-cold soft or mineral-free water (Figure 8-10). Never use hot water to mix with lye; it will erupt like a volcano.
2. Weigh another empty lightweight plastic container first, and adjust the scale to zero.
Weigh out 11.2 ounces (318 grams) of lye, and then pour the lye carefully and slowly into the ice-cold water. Ensure adequate ventilation; outdoors is best. Lye pulls
moisture out of the air, so it has a lot of “static cling.” Spills are easy to do. You’ll notice that the lye will react with the cold water, and it Chapter 8 I Clean with Green Projects 119
I Eye protection
I A hot plate or stove
I A heavy apron
I Measuring cups
I A thermometer that reads as low as 90°F and higher than 200°F
I A stick blender (used for making milk shakes in a glass)
I A corrugated box of approximately 8⫻8⫻9 inches (a shoe box)
I A small size plastic trash can liner or plastic shopping bag (Figure 8-9)
W H A T Y O U ’ L L N E E D
Figure 8-9
CAUTION
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gets very hot. It’ll also give off a gas; this is why you should be outside. Don’t breathe the fumes. When the mixture is stirred and the crystals have dissolved, cover the lye solution and bring it back inside. Let your lye sit in a safe place (out of the reach of people and pets) until it cools to room temperature. This will take 2 to 3 hours (Figures 8-11 and 8-12).
You can make this lye solution the day before to give it plenty of time to cool.
Lye solution is a very dangerous substance. It can cause death if ingested. Make sure that everyone in the house knows what it is and that it is not to be touched.
3. When the lye and water mixture has returned to room temperature, you’re ready to start making your soap. Start by weighing out your fat.
4. Pour your weighed oil into a stainless steel or enameled pot. Put that pot on the stove to heat while stirring often. Keep a close eye on it because oil can reach temperature unexpectedly and somewhat quickly. Stir well before measuring the temperature. You want the temperature between 120 and 130°F (60°C) (Figure 8-13).
5. Make sure that the lye solution is near room temperature. Make sure to wear your gloves and goggles. Now carefully and slowly pour the lye solution into the oil. Hold your head back while pouring to avoid splashes.
6. Use a large wooden or plastic spoon with holes or slots, and carefully stir the mixture.
Keep stirring for a few minutes. Then switch to the electric stick blender, or you can continue stirring with the spoon for about an hour if you like (Figure 8-14).
120 Recycling Projects for the Evil Genius
Figure 8-11
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CAUTION
Figure 8-12 Figure 8-10
7. If you use a stick blender, pulse it on and off to help keep the mix from splattering all over the place. Blend with the stick for a minute, and then stir with a spoon for a minute, if you need to. The result should be a very thick liquid soap in 5 to 10 minutes or so. It will become thicker and more murky, cloudy, or muddy looking as time goes on if you weighed accurately and had your temperatures accurate (Figures 8-15 and 8-16).
The bowl and mixture will stay warm to the touch and may get even warmer owing to the sopifacation process. So don’t be afraid of a little heat.
8. Immediately pour the soap into the mold (the 8-⫻8-⫻9-inch box lined with a plastic bag). Since the sopifacation reaction is still taking place, even as it sets in the mold, it generates heat. If you put your hand on the side of the box, you will feel its warmth. Let it cool for 24 hours (Figures 8-17 and 8-18).
Chapter 8 I Clean with Green Projects 121
Figure 8-13
Figure 8-14
Figure 8-15
Figure 8-16
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9. After 24 hours, the soap should be solid or semisolid, and it’s good to go. However, if it is mushy (because of the quality of the oil), you’ll need to move it back into the pot and add a couple tablespoons of plain old table salt. Put it on the stove, and reheat it slowly while stirring constantly. When it reaches 120 to 130°F again, remove it from the heat, and pour it back into the mold. Give it another 24 hours, and if it’s still not solid or is semisolid, your weights of oil and lye may have been off. The best place for this failed batch may
be your compost pile—a few ounces at a time over the next few weeks.