Emulsions stabilized by a non-ionic surfactant or/and TiO2 particles: a multiscale approach to explain the sensory perception and the residual film properties

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Submitted on 8 May 2020

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Emulsions stabilized by a non-ionic surfactant or/and TiO2 particles: a multiscale approach to explain the

sensory perception and the residual film properties

Daria Terescenco, Géraldine Savary, Nicolas Hucher, Celine Picard

To cite this version:

Daria Terescenco, Géraldine Savary, Nicolas Hucher, Celine Picard. Emulsions stabilized by a non- ionic surfactant or/and TiO2 particles: a multiscale approach to explain the sensory perception and the residual film properties. 25th IFSCC Conference, Sep 2019, Milan, Italy. �hal-02568237�

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0 2 4 6 8

Non

Aqueuous

Screech residue

Whitening effect

Film

whiteness Film

glossiness Greasiness

Difficulty of spreading

EM_St10 EM_TiO₂St EM_TiO₂

EM TiO

₂

EM

St/TiO

₂

EM St

EMULSIONS STABILIZED BY A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT OR/AND TIO ₂ PARTICLES:

A MULTISCALE APPROACH TO EXPLAIN THE SENSORY PERCEPTION AND THE RESIDUAL FILM PROPERTIES

Terescenco Daria ^a , Savary Géraldine ^a , Hucher Nicolas ^a , Picard Céline ^a

[a] Normandie Univ, UNILEHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, 76600 Le Havre, France

H ^{OW TO UNDERSTAND THE ROLE OF THE SOLID PARTICLES ON THE EMULSION} APPLICATIVE PROPERTIES ?

B ^{Y SELECTING ADAPTED RAW MATERIALS}

AND DEFINING AN OPTIMAL COMPOSITION OF THE FORMULATED EMULSION

1 ^{B Y CONFIRMING THE} PHYSICOCHEMICAL

STABILITY OF THE SYSTEMS

2

B ^Y ESTABLISHING THE SENSORY PROFILE OF THE SYSTEMS

B ^Y INVESTIGATING THE PROPERTIES OF THE RESIDUAL FILM ON THE HUMAN

SKIN AND SYNTHETIC SKIN MODELS

3

4

F ^{RICTION PARAMETER INCREASES WITH THE INCREASING}

QUANTITY OF THE SOLID PARTICLES

0 300 600 900

0 20 40 60 80 100 120

FM (Frictiometer® Units)

Time (s)

EM_St EM_TiO₂ EM_TiO₂St Skin

0%

5%

10%

T ^{HE PRESENCE OF THE SURFACTANT IN THE EMULSION GOVERNS THE}

HYDROPHILIC PROPERTIES OF THE RESIDUAL FILM

C ^ONCLUSION

T ^{HE DROPLET SIZE AND} DISTRIBUTION ARE AFFECTED BY THE EMULSIFYING SYSTEM

S ^{OLID PARTICLES PLAY AN IMPORTANT ROLE ON THE} APPLICATIVE PROPERTIES OF THE EMULSIONS :

I ^NDIRECTLY

- By modulating the droplet organization and distribution with an impact on the spreading;

- By interacting with other raw materials and by modifying their perception;

D ^IRECTLY

- By leaving a specific white, screechy, hydrophobic residual film after the emulsion application.

Water

Carpylic Capric

Triglycerides

+

And / Or

A conventional non ionic surfactant

S ^TEARETH -2/S ^TEARETH -21 (St)

T ^{ITANIUM DIOXIDE} (TiO₂)

Stabilising system:

Attributes impacted by the surfactant

presence

Attributes controlled by the quantity and the type of the

solid particles

%

PARTICLES IN EMULSION

S PREADI NG TR ACE ON POLYE TH YLEN E SHEET

S ^{TABLE AND TOTALLY}

EMULSIFIED SYSTEMS

Emulsions containing a conventional surfactant form a highly hydrophilic film.

On the contrary, the emulsion stabilised exclusively by titanium dioxide is more hydrophobic, approaching the values of the human skin.

82.6 ± 6.8 °

WATER

SKIN

F^ILM

15.4 ± 6.0 °

WATER

S^KIN F^ILM

18.1 ± 7.6 °

WATER

S^KIN FILM

C ON TA CT ANGLE MEASUREMENT ON TH E SKIN

100 µm 100 µm

100 µm

M ICR OS COPIC OB SERVATI ON

EM TiO

₂

EM St/TiO

₂

EM St

1 cm 1 cm 1 cm