Brieg and the Simplon

VALAIS M D CHAMOVNIX

With s i x t e e n I l lu s tr atio n s by J. W E B E R and a Map.

Z U R I C H : O R ELL FÜS8L1 A Co.

I

l l u s t r a t e d

E

u r o pe

Our Collection “ ILLUSTRATED E U R O P E ” is published also in a German and a French edition, entitled respectively :—

Europäische Wanderbilder. § L’Europe illustrée.

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The following numbers have appeared :—

1. The A rth-R igi-R ailw ay

2. Baden-Baden

3. The V itznan-B igi-R ail.

4. Heiden and the

Rorschach-Heiden-B a ilw a y

5. Baden in Sw itzerland

6. Thun and the Lake of Thun

7. Interlaken

8. The Bpper-Engadine

10. Constance

11. N yon on the lake of Geneva

12. Thnsis a t the V ia M ala

13. Lucerne

14. Florence

1 5 .1 6 . M ilan

17. Schaffhansen and the F alls of the

Rhine

18. R a g a z-P M ers

10. V evey, its environs and clim ate

20. B aths of Kreuth

21. B avos

22. Reinerz

23. The Gruyère

24. 25. 26. The St. Gothard R a ilw a y

27. 28. Freiburg (Baden)

29. 30. Gorhersdorf

(Sanatorium for

Consum ptives)

3 1 .3 2 . Chaux-de-Fouds, Locle, Brenets

33. From Frohurg to W aldenburg

3 4 .3 5 . The B ürgenstock (Lake of Lucerne)

36. 37. N euchâtel aud its environs

38. 39. B a tta g lia near Padua

40. 41. Coire and its environs

42. 43. 44. The P u sterth al R a ilw a y

4 5 .4 6 . 47. The Brenner R a ilw a y

4 8 .4 9 .5 0 . From the Danube to the A driatic

51. 52. Graz

53. 54. From Paris to Berne

55. 56. The Lake of Lucerne

57. Jugenheim a. Auerbach n. D arm stadt

5 8 .5 9 . A ix-les-B ain s and its environs

6 0 .6 1 . Heidelberg

62. 6 3 .6 4 . Budapest

65. M ontreux

66. 6 7 . 68. Locarno

69. 70. 7 1 .7 2 . Canton G lam s and the

Lake of W alen stadt

73. 74. 75. 76. Mont Cenis

77. 78. 79. The Black Forest R a ilw a y

80. 81. The Briinig R a ilw a y

8 2 .8 3 . From the Furka to Brieg

84. 85. 86. Zurich and it s environs

87. 88. Brieg and the Simplon

8 9 .9 0 . 91. 92. Zerm att and the V alleys

of Visp

93. 94. 95. The V a lley of Lotschen and

the Baths of Leuk

96. 97. 98. The V alleys of Turtm an and

Eifisch

99. 100. The Kurhaus Tarasp.

101. 102. M orat.

lO O O O O O O G O Q O O O G i JOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO B IB L IO T H È Q U E C A N T O N A L E D U V A L A IS SION *

‘B i b l i o t h è q u e

S e c t i o n M o n t e - R o s a

C. A. S.

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m

,

VALAIS

a n d

CHAMOUNIX.

ßRIEG

A N D T H E

SIIPL0Ì

F. O. W O L F .

n

C O N T E N T S .

I. B ri e g a n d its e n v iro n s ... 63

II. T h e S im p lo n ... 83

H isto ric a l N otice o f th e S im plon P a s s ... 83

T o p o g ra p h y o f the S im p lo n ... 01

II I . G eo lo g ical, m in e ra lo g ic a l, an d b o ta n ic a l n o te s in th e Sim plon d i s t r i c t ... 114

B r i eg f r o m th e N o r th S id e .

I. Brieg and its Environs.

*■ T h e d w e l l e r s in t h is In n d w e r e o f y o r e d iv id e d b y “ th e o ld h i s t o r i a n s a n d g e o g r a p h e r s i n t o t h r e e n a t i o n s , u a n d d i s t in g u is h e d b y n n r o c. T h e u p p e r m o s t , fr o m “ th e s o u r c e s o f th e R h o n e d o w n to b e l o w G l y s s o n “ th e l a k e , a r e th e a n c i e n t L e p o n t ii , a n d a r e c a l l e d b y “ P l i n y , l i b . 3 , c a p . 2 0 , V i b e r i o r V i b e r i g i , a b b r e v i a t e d “ i n t o B r i g i : fr o m w h ic h a n c i e n t n a m e o f t h is p e o p le “ t h a t o f th e t o w n o f B r i e g is d e r i v e d . ” S t u m p f s C h r o n i c l e , B o o k X I .

HE little tow n of B rieg, capital of th e district of the sam e nam e, lies 2244 feet above th e level of th e sea, 31 m iles to th e east of Sion or S it te n , on th e left bank of th e R iver

R hone, a t its confluence w ith the Saltine, a to rren t descending from the Simplon. Its (C atholic) population am ounted in 1880 to 1200. I ts traffic is considerable, for B rieg is th e term in u s o f th e V alais R ailw ay (L ig n e d ’Ita lie ) and form s th e key to the m ountain roads over th e F u rk a an d the Sim plon, which, beginning h ere, connect V alais and th e w est of Sw itzerland w ith th e “ prim itive cantons ” and w ith U pper Italy . T h e n u ­ m erous tow ers an d conspicuous buildings roofed w ith g litterin g m ica-slate endow th e “ burgschaft ’’ o f B rieg w ith a peculiar ch aracter and give it quite an Italian aspect. T h e old chronicler Stum pfius was favourably im pressed by it. “ B rieg ,” he w rites, “ is a beautiful, pleasan t, and stately b o ro u g h , and in m y opinion it excels all th e o th e r towns of U pper V alais.”

T h e principal buildings a re th e form er Je s u its ’ C onvent, w ith its m agnificent church, th e convent o f U rsuline n u n s, an d th e palace o f th e Stockalper fam ily. Several o f the p ri­ vate houses, an d th e th re e hotels, have also q u ite a palatial appearance.

O n e n terin g B rieg from the railw ay-station we first come to th e H ôtel-P ension de la P o ste (form erly “ a u x C o u ro n n es” ), w hile in th e m idst o f th e little town are the H ôtel d’A n g le­ terre, an d on th e opposite side o f th e Saltine the P ension M üller. T h e m ain stre e t leads up a steep ascent to the palace o f th e S to ck alp er fam ily. T h re e huge tow ers, (the badge and arm orial bearings of this fam ily), surm ount th e extensive build­ ing w ith its num erous p a ss a g e s , g a lle rie s , and ap artm en ts, and th e w hole is su rrounded by a park -lik e g ard en . P assing th ro u g h the gatew ay, w hich is o f polished s e rp e n tin e , we e n te r th e spacious in n er court, w here we can b e st adm ire the handsom e edifice.

E very y ear, on Corpus C h risti day, an a lta r is set up in a niche constructed for th e purpose, and on this a lta r the a rt treasu res of th e Stockalpers are displayed, exciting y e a r by y ear the adm iration of a num erous assem blage.

O f th ese old heirloom s th e objects m ost deserving of m ention a re a rep resen tatio n of the Magi in em bossed silver,

a m asterpiece of B envenuto C ellini’s, to g e th e r with some early Gothic candlesticks. T he p resen t ow ner is a t all tim es ready to exhibit these treasu res to visitors. T he larg e collection o f fam ily portraits in the spacious k n ig h ts’ hall, and th e old c arv ­ ed furniture, a re also worth seeing ; while looking a t them we fancy ourselves carried b ack into o th er tim es, to days th a t have long passed. T he m ost rem ark ab le o f all these pictures is th a t of the “ g r e a t”

S tockalper.

C aspar S to ck alp er, baron o f D u in , k n ig h t of the H oly G host and o f the O rd er o f S t. Mi­

chael , colonel in the

P iedm ontese service, and cap tain of several com­ panies in th e F r e n c h ,

S p a n is h , and Im perial

a rm ie s , lived in the

sev en teen th century. H e it was who b u ilt on th e heights of th e Sim plon P a ss an d in G ondo h o s­ pices for th e reception and re lie f o f travellers overtaken by storm s or by fatigue ; he it w as

who constructed th e canal th ro u g h w hich th e R hone flows for th e distance o f a mile n ear C olo m b ey , th u s d raining and restoring to cultivation a larg e a re a of land ; he too it w as w hose m unificent donations ren d ered it possible for th e upper districts to erect th e m aguificent Je s u its ’ chu rch and convent. All this took place in th e m iddle of th e seventeenth century. A t th a t tim e religious disputes w ere ra g in g in th e land, and the ideas o f th e reform ers th re a te n e d to underm ine an d destroy th e ancient church in V alais. I t was m ainly by Stockalper’s

— 6 G —

calling in th e aid of th e Je su its, a n d by the founding of th e tw o o th er convents which V alais owes to h im , th a t the old faith w as upheld in this canton. Tw o of his d au g h ters entered th e new U rsulino convent ; a n o th e r m arried th e p ain ter George M annhaft, o f Sw abia, and only one gave her hand, and a rich dow ry, to a native of V alais. T h is c irc u m sta n c e , an d above all th e count’s g re a t w ealth, excited th e envy of his fellow- citizens, and he, th e g re a te st benefactor o f his native province, w as driven from his hom e and deprived of the g re a te r p a rt of his p ro p erty . A fter six years sp en t in b anishm ent he re ­ turned. M any restored to him w h a t th ey had w rongfully tak en , others besought his indulgence ; to m ost of his p e rse ­ cutors he m agnanim ously m ade a free gift of the booty th ey had obtained.

T h e chronicler describes him as a m an w h o , owing to his g re a t n a tu ra l gifts, his talen ts, his eloquence, his extensive le a r n in g , his sagacity, his foresight in th e conduct of affairs, and his g re a t zeal for th e C atholic relig io n , deserves to be held in all honour by posterity. A couple of anecdotes o f him m ay be o f in te re st : In the R ohrflühen (6 m iles below B rieg) a band of robbers h ad com m itted depredations. Stockaiper a ttire d him self in b eg g ar’s g a r m e n ts , pretended to be dull- w itted, and allow ed h im self to be captured by the robbers, w ith th e object o f spying o u t the re tre a t of the m arauders. O n being released he retu rn ed a t th e h ead of a com pany o f tro o p s , surrounded th e c a v e , and c ap tu red the en tire band. I t is fu rth e r related of him th a t being called upon to sta te publicly upon oath th e am ount o f his personal p ro p e r ty , he, w ith th e acquiescence of his confessor, b ro u g h t everything to g e th e r into one place, b u t so th a t n o t all of it was visible, and th en sw ore th a t e v ery th in g h e possessed was on th e spot w here he w as standing. H is m otto w as : N il solidum , n isi so­

lu m ; and consequently he invested his g re a t w ealth in landed

p ro p erty , an d it is still related of him th a t he could jo u rn ey from Lyons to M ilan and rest and lodge every n ig h t on his own p roperty. H is costum e w as th a t o f th e country, m ade

of rough woollen cloth woven in his own house. In this dress h e appeared even before th e splendour-loving nobles o f Milan ; th e jib es w hich th e y a t first b e ­

stow ed on him ceased w hen one of h is m agnificent horses lost a shoe and it w as seen to be of silver. F ro m th a t m om ent h e was spoken of as “ th e ric h count from V alais.”

W e will now m ake o u r w ay to th e an cien t Je s u its ’ C onvent, w hich is approached by a flight of stone steps. B u t before en terin g th e spacious church le t u s take a look round from th e terrace in

fro n t o f it. A t our feet lies the

tow n o f B rieg, w ith th e neigh­ bouring villages o f M aters and Glis and the broad an d w ell-cultivated v alley of th e E lio n e ; the y o u th ­ ful riv e r, assum ing now a steadier g a it th a n w hen in boyish e x u b er­ ance of sp irit it rushed boisterously th ro u g h th e d istrict of Goms, flows for th e m ost p a rt betw een lush g reen m eadow s, shady orchards,

an d fertile fields. B etw een the

tow ers o f the S tockalper P alace V isp is seen in th e distance nod­ ding a friendly greetin g , and on every side th e lan d is enclosed

by lofty m ountain ram p arts. In

th e south o u r eye can follow th e P r iv a te H a a se in B rie g .

Sim plon road for a considerable distance up th e h eig h ts. N e a r S c h a llb e rg , above the frig h tfu l gorge o f the S altina, it b ranches off into th e G an th erth al, and is lost to our view ;

b u t above B erisal in the R othw ald it again becomes visible, an d rem ains so until the sum m it o f th e pass is reached. T he spurs of M onte L e o n e , th e Schönhorn an d B reithorn, w ith the K altw asser G lacier, dom inate the Sim plon P ass on th e east, w hile tow ards th e w est it is overlooked by th e

G lishorn. T he h u g e rocky m asses of th e la tte r rise p erp en ­

dicularly above th e valley o f th e R h o n e, and th e sum m it, sep a ra te d in g re a t p a rt by fissures from the m ass o f th e m o u n tain , seem s to th re a te n sudden destruction to th e in ­ h ab itan ts o f th e u nderlying district. L egends tell how S atan w as once seen to fly th ro u g h the air from the B ellalpe, b en t on destroying th e new ly-built Je s u its ’ C hu rch ; b u t th e fe r­ v e n t prayers of a w atchful b ro th er saved th e edifice and th e tow n o f B rieg from so terrib le a m isfortune. E v ery spring the m ountain sends its avalanches th u n d erin g into th e valley ; th ey a re looked forw ard to w ith im patience by th e people of B rieg, a s being th e harbingers o f spring and a token th a t the place is a b o u t to be relieved from th e m onths o f w in try shadow w hich th e G lishorn, its grim neighbour, has cast upon it.

O pposite th e Sim plon, hidden am ong ch estn u t and w alnut- tre e s, is th e im portant village o f K aters, w ith a fine church a n d num erous ruins. T h e long ex tin ct fam ilies o f U rnafas a n d S upersaxo once dw elt here, and th e bishops o f V alais selected it as th eir sum m er resid en ce, ow ing to its p leasan t a n d salubrious situation.

M any historical associations are connected w ith this place. In th e y ear 1294 P e te r o f T lm rm -G esteln b u rg , and in the y e a r 13G2 Bishop G uiscard T a v e lli, w ere ta k e n prisoners h ere and th e ir adherents routed. Indeed th e bishops frequently had th e ir sum m er holiday in K aters unseasonably in te rru p te d ; m ore th an once th e unru ly people o f U pper V alais, so jealo u s o f their liberty, besieged th e ir rulers h e re and compelled them to renounce th e rights conferred upon them by C harlem agne’s c h a rte r. T h u s it happened to W illiam II I . o f R aron an d to th e pious b u t too mildly tem pered J u s tu s o f Silcnen. T he

pa-luces and castles have long fallen into decay, b u t th e m assive m asonry still bears w itness to th e ir form er gran d eu r.

I t is alm ost w ith a feeling o f g ladness th a t we tu rn our glance u p w ard , from hill to h ill, from terrace to terrace, to lovely B e lla lp , to th e w ondrous A letsch G lacie r, and to the g litterin g snow -fields and icy sum m its o f th e B ernese A lps. A fter exchanging a h a sty g re e tin g w ith th e old an d welcom e acquaintances o f our form er w anderings, le t us now en ter the sacred building. A dim religious lig h t reigns in the interior. W e pass th ro u g h the spacious body o f th e church to the choir. A t its entrance stand tw o sid e-altars w ith paintings by D esehw anden and D e la R osa rep resen tin g scenes from the life o f St. Ig n a tiu s, th e founder of th e ord er of Jesu its. T he choir its e f contains four m agnificent paintings by th e cele­ b rated Italian a rtist D e la R osa. T h ey also p erp etu ate the life and deeds o f St. Ig n atiu s, as well as th a t o f th e A postle o f th e C hinese an d Ja p a n e se , S t. Francis X avier.

In th e troublous year 1 8 4 7 , a fte r th e expulsion o f the Je su its, th e th en rad ical governm ent of V alais proposed to confiscate th e ir property and dispose of it by auction. B u t this proceeding was very properly resisted by the Stockalper fam ily, th e burgesses o f B rieg, and the six ea ste rn districts. A fter a long controversy th e ir rig h ts w ere a t length acknow ­ ledged , and to th is courageous action V alais owes th e con­ tinued existence of its h ig h er G orm an educational establishm ent. Self-sacrificing native teach ers, especially o f the clerical order, have since occupied th e J e s u its’ College, and it now dispenses in stru ctio n to th e youth of th e canton who a re desirous of carry in g th e ir education to a h ig h er point th an is practicable in th e ordinary village schools.

L eav in g the ch u rch , we will continue our w alk th ro u g h th e q u ain t old to w n , aro u n d which so m any in terestin g asso­ ciations group them selves. W e pass th e U rsuline Convent w here th e m aidens o f B rieg and the fem ale teach ers for the schools in th e G erm an districts of the canton receive th e ir education. W e cannot obtain e n tra n c e , ex cep t to the p re tty

chapel and the w ell-kept g ard en adjoining it. Close by stan d s the old hospital, w here once the pilgrim s bound for Rom e w ere received and cared fo r, and betw een th e tw o buildings is the little chapel o f S t. S ebastian, also rich in historical re ­ collections.

F o r in an cien t tim es th e L andsgem einde or N ational A s­ sem bly o f the people of V alais was often held in this place ; th u s in th e y ear 1414 it was h ere resolved to set up th e “ M a z z e ” * before th e castle of the cap tain -g en eral G uiscard o f R aron. T h is G uiscard w as a cruel ty ran t, who b ro u g h t down upon him self the w rath o f th e liberty-loving people o f V alais by u n ju stly throw ing into prison and illtreatin g a certain O hvig or Owlig, a popular m ag istrate ( castellan ) o f B rieg, and m ore especially on account o f his seizing and holding in captivity, in breach o f his own prom ise, m em bers of the national coun­ cil who had m et in Sion to tak e steps ag ain st his ty ran n y .

B u t we will allow a native poet, P a te r A m herd, to n a r­ ra te these e v e n ts , as he does so adm irably .in th e th ird act o f his dram a of “ T hom as in d er B ünden.” **

* “ M a z z o ” is d e riv e d from th e Ita lia n w ord m a z z a , a n d signifies a clu b , w h ich w as s e t u p as a to k e n o f o u tla w ry b efo re th e d o o r o f a n obn o x io u s in d iv id u a l. T h e p e rso n so tre a te d w as h o p e le ssly lost. T h is p o p u la r d isp en sa tio n o f ju s tic e , p e c u lia r to th e c an to n o f V a lais, w as lo n g r e ta in e d , a n d w as a b o lis h e d only a fte r re p e a te d in te rv e n tio n s b y th e fe­ d e ra l a u th o rity .

** E v e n a t th e p re s e n t d ay d ra m a s o f th is k in d a re a c te d y e a r by y e a r by th e p e o p le o f V alais, u sually in th e o pen a i r ; th e su b je c t is g e n e ra lly ta k e n from th e h isto ry o f th e canton. T h e a b le s t m en o f th e c a n to n com ­ p o se th e se p o p u la r p la y s an d th e m selv e s tak e p a rt in th e ir re p re s e n ta tio n . A m o n g them w e m ay m ention L . L. von K oten, B ordis, K äm p fen , T sc h ein en , In -A lb o n , K a lb e rm a tte n , a n d A m h erd .

The M azze.

A p u b lic pla ce in B ric g . I n th e b a c k g r o u n d S t . S e b a s tia n ’s C hapel, to w h ic h a J lig h t o f s to n e s te p s le a d s u p . E n t e r tw o c itiz e n s, A n to n con I ttig e n a n d E g iil In d e r k u m m e n (a n c ie n t f a m i l i e s o f B r ie g ) , e n g a g e d in lire lg co n ­ v e r s a tio n . A n t o n v o n I t t i g e n . W h o w o u ld h a v e d r e a m t o f t h a t ? T h e l a n d e s r a t h , j I n p e a c e a s s e m b l e d a t t h e B is h o p ’s H o c k , ! W a s s u d d e n l y d i s s o l v e d b y v i o l e n c e ! E g i d I n d e r k u m m e n . A n d a l l o u r n o b l e p a t r i o t s le d a w a y — T o L o w e r V a l a i s ,w h e r e d is g r a c e a w a i t s A n t o n vo n I t t i g e n . A t r e a s o n th is , a s n e v e r y e t w a s k n o w n ! T h e B i s h o p a n d th e C a p t a in - G e n e r a l g a v e T h e ir w o r d o f tr o th , t h e p le d g e w a s s i g n e d a n d s e a l e d — A n d n o w — h o w f a i t h l e s s s t a n d t h e t r a it o r s E g i d I n d e r k u m m e n . E x c u s e s fo r th e B is h o p m i g h t b e fo u n d , F o r b y h is u n c le h e i s s t i l l d e c e i v 'd . B u t t i u i s c a r d — t r a it o r o u s v i l la i n th a t h e B e a r s t r e a s o n ’s m a r k u p o n h is f o r e h e a d s t a m p e d , A n d h im th e p e o p le n e v e r w i l l f o r g iv e . 1 (D ru m s h e a r d in th e dista n c e). A n t o n v o n I t t i g e n . M e tliin k s , i n d e e d , h is h o u r a t l e n g t h h a s s tr u c k ! T h e H i i r g e r r a t h , a s s e m b le d y e s t e r n i g h t , W a s w e l l a t t e n d e d . D e p u t i e s F r o m U r i y S c h t c y t z , a n d U n t e r w a ld e n A s s i s t a n c e p r e f e r r i n g in t h e h o u r o f n e e d . T h e n t o o ’tw a s s a i d t h e S w i s s C o n fe d e r a te s D o ofTer u s a d m i s s io n to t h e L e a g u e , I f ili V a l d ’O s s o / a w e th e m a s s i s t . W e r e D o m o d ’O s s o l a b u t o n c e r e c o v e r e d , A n d U p p e r V a l a i s ,w ith th e S i m p l o n P a s s , I n tr u s t y h a n d s , w h y , th e n i s G u i s c a r d ' s T h w a r te d f o r e v e r , — a n d w e a g a i n a r e fr e e . T o d w e ll a m id o u r v a l e s , w h ic h n o w in p a in B e n e a t h t h e c r u e l ty r a n n y d o g r o a n . (L o u d e r d r u in -b e a ts a r e h e a r d ) . E g i d I n d e r k u m m e n . W h a t m e a n t h o s e d r u m s u p y o n d e r in th e C a s tle ? A n t o n vo n I t t i g e n . N e w w a r r io r s , d o u b t l e s s , c o m in g fr o m th e h il l s ! B u t y e s t e r d a y t w e n t y S a v o y a r d l o u t s , H a r d p u t to i t b y th e S w i s s C o n f e d e r a t e s , A n d l l c c i n g h it h e r fr o m V a l d ’O s s o la , W e r e s e i z e d , d e p r i v e d o f a r m o u r a n d o f w e a p o n s , A n d d r iv e n o f f w ith s h o u t s o f m o c k e r y . ’ T i s tr u e th e y t h r e a t e n e d to a c c u s e u s B r i e g e r s T o th e C a p t a i n - G e n e r a l , w h o w o u ld th e m B u t n o o n e t o o k t h e i r p a r t. T h e l a u g h t e r g r e w T h e l o u d e r , th e m o r e th e y f o r a s s i s t a n c e s h r i e k e d . E g i d I n d e r k u m m e n . T h e tu m u lt g r o w s q u i t e d e a f e n i n g . S e v e r a l v o ic e s .

(B e h in d the sta g e).

M a z z e ! M a z z e ! T h e M a z z e c o m e s ! T h e M a z z e - m a s t e r . U p y o n d e r to t h e s q u a r e ! T o S t. S e b a s t i a n ’s C h a p e l !— fo r w a r d ! fo r w a r d !

C h i l d r e n . F o r w a r d !— to S t. S e b a s t i a n ' s C h a p e l, fo r w a r d ! ( F ir s t a p p e a r th e ch ild r e n . T h e n th e t a m ­ b o u rs , th e M a z z e - m a s t e r , a n d the M a z z e - b e a re r , w it h a f e w s o ld ie r s a s g u a r d , a ll in d isg u ise . T h e y talee th e ir p la c e on th e stejis o f S t . S e b a s tia n ’s C hapel. T h e s q u a r e q u ic k ly J ills u d th c u r io us p eo p le , w h o g r o u p th em se lv es on e ith e r s id e in a sem ic irc le. B e lo w s ta n d

th e tw o citize n s p r e v io u s ly in tro d u c e d ;. E g i d I n d e r k u m m e n . W h a t m e a n s t h i s m u m m e r y i n t h e s e o u r W h e n e a r n e s t f o r e th d u g h t s h o u ld o u r m i n d s e m p l o y ? A n t o n vo n I t t i g e n . B e s t i l l ! T h e g a m e m a y s o o n g r o w e a r n e s t . H e a r w h a t th e M a z z e - m a s t e r h a s to s a y ! M a z z e - m a s t e r .

( I n a h o llo w voice, slo w ly ).

Y e s e e m a s t o n i s h ' d t h a t th e M a z z e th u s A p p e a r s b e f o r e y o u in t h i s to w n o f B r i c g , B u t s h e n o l o n g e r c o u ld e n d u r e t h e p a in W ith w h i c h t h e s e m a n y y e a r s s h e h a s b e e n to r n . H e r e s e e y o h e r in a l l h e r m is e r y ! C o m fo r t s h e s e e k s , a s s i s t a n c e s e e k s fr o m y o u . ( T h e M a z z e -m a s te r l i f t s u p a lo n g c lu b , a t th e e n d o f w h ic h is f a s te n e d a m o u r n f i d - lo o k in g m a s k w ith t h o r n y tw ig s w o u n d r o u n d i t. T h e p e o p le g a ze in silence a n d h o r r o r a t th e M a z z e ). E g i d I n d e r k u m m e n . (A sid e;. T h e f o r e h e a d w r in k le d ! — e y e s b u r n t fr o m t h e i r s o c k e t s ! — T h e m o u th c o n t o r t e d ! t h e c h e c k s h o ll o w a n d w a n !— Tli* e n t ir e h e a d w ith th o r n s e n tw in e d a b o u t ! — A h o r r id s i g h t , t h a t n o n e w it h o u t e m o t io n M a y l o o k u p o n ! M a n g v o ic e s . T e r r i b l e ! — h o r r ib le ! — M a z z e - m a s t e r . O , y e g o o d f o lk o f B r i e g ! y e a r e in d ig n a n t T o s e e t h e h o r r id fe a t u r e s o f t h i s M a z z e . A g e n e r a l c r y o f w r a t h f u l in d i g n a t io n I s s u e s fr o m o u t o f y o u r c o m p a s s i o n a t e A n d t r u l y — n o t in v a i n ! T h is s i l e n t M a z zo T o y o u a d e e p - t h o u g h t , w e ig h t y r id d le T h a t I w o u ld c o u n s e l y e f o r th w ith to s o l v e . ( E x p e c ta n t •> Hence). A v o ic e . T h a t i s th e l i k e n e s s o f o u r a g e d O w lig ! S e v e r a l V o ic e s . O u r a g e d O w l i g ? — o u r r i g h t w o r th y c a s t ’la n ? M a z z e - m a s t e r . M a y b e t h e M a z z e i s th e c a s t 'l a n s l i k e n e s s ! T h e C a p t a in - G e n e r a l h o s h a r p ly b la m e d , F o r t h a t h o h e l p e d th e r u le r o f S a v o y A g a i n s t t h e S w i t z e r s in V a l d ’O s s o la . F o r th is h e ’s th r o w n in t o a d u n g e o n d e e p , W h e r e h e , b y g r i e f o p p r e s s e d , i s n ig h to M a n y V o ic e s . A la s ! p o o r c a s t e l l a n , w’e p it y t h e e ! M a z z e - m a s t e r . B u t y e t , d e a r f o lk o f B r i e g , it s e e m e t h m e , T h e M a z z e ’s m e a n i n g y e d o f a i l to g r a s p . H e r e in th e m i d s t o f l o v e l y U p p e r V a la is , B e n e a t h M o u n t S im p lo n , w h e r e o f o ld t h e R o m a n s D id b u ild a f a m o u s h ig h w a y f o r t h e i r t r o o p s , W h e r e n o w t h e p it h y G e r m a n t o n g u e is s p o k e n — A t o n g u e t h a t b o a s t s i t s s p e a k e r s n e 'e r w e r e s l a v e s — In w e i g h t y m a t t e r s t h a t c o n c e r n o u r la n d T o s p e a k a w e i g h t y w o r d h a s a y e b e e n C a n y e d is c e r n n o d e e p e r m e a n i n g h id B e n e a t h t h e p it e o u s fe a tu r e s o f t h i s I t i s t h e l i k e n e s s o f o u r L a n d e s r a th ! S e v e r a l V o ic e s . T h e L a n d e s r a th ? — a b u s e d ? — d e s p is e d ? — in d u r a n c e ? M a z z e - m a s t e r . M a y b e , t h a t h e r e t h e L a n d e s r a th is s h o w n , In d u r a n c e h e l d a g a i n s t a l l r i g h t a n d I j u s t i c e !

T h e n o b l e s t p a t r i o t s o f o u r c o u n tr y l a n g u i s h , C o v e r e d w ith s h a m e , w it h in a d u n g e o n W h o k n o w s h o w l o n g t h e i r to r t u r e s h a ll e n d u r e ? M a n y V o ic e s . A l a s ! h o w g r i e v e w e fo r t h o s e n o b l e m e n ! M a z z e - m a s t e r . B u t , d e a r e s t fo lk o f B r i e g l n o t y e t h a v e y e T h e i n m o s t m e a n i n g o f th e M a z z e g r a s p ’d . G a z e o n t h e s e e y e s , fo r a y e d e p r iv e d o f l i g h t , T h is m o u th , b y fo r c e s h u t t o , t h a t c a n n o t s p e a k , T h e s e p a ll i d c h e e k s , t h a t t e ll o f p a in T h e a n x io u s b r o w , fu r r o w e d b y m a n y a T h e n t o o t h e th o r n s , th a t, w it h th e ir s t i n g i n g p o in t s , W h ic h w o u n d y e t m o r e th is p a in e d a n d to r tu r e d h e a d , T o a n g u i s h a d d t h e s h a f t s o f m o c k e r y W h a t , th in k y e , d o e s t h is M a z z e r e p r e s e n t ? ’ T is s u r e ! th e M a z z e is o u r F a t h e r la n d ! S e v e r a l V o ic e s . Y e s , y e s !— t h e M a z z e i s o u r F a t h e r l a n d ! M a n y V o ic e s . O u r F a th e r la n d ! — t h a t m o u r n s ! — th a t w e e p s '.— t h a t b le e d s ! M a z z e - m a s t e r . 0 n o b le f o lk o f B r i e g ! a t l e n g t h h a v e y e T h e d e e p - t h o u g h t m e a n i n g o f t h is M a z z e I t i s th e s y m b o l o f p o o r c a s t 'l a n O w i i g ! T h e s y m b o l o f th e d e e p l y in j u r e d L a n d s - r a t h ! T h e s y m b o l o f o u r d o w n t r o d F a t h e r l a n d •' T h e s y m b o l o f u n h a p p y , s u f f e r in g V a l a i s - (M u r m u r s a m o n g the jteople). T h e r e f o r e l e t o n e a m o n g y o u n o w s ta n d f o r t h , W h o d a r e s t o s p e a k a w o r d b e fo r e t h i s p e o p le , S o m e n o b le c h a m p io n o f t h i s in j u r e d W h o f e a r s n o t a u g h t t h a t t y r a n t s c a n L e t s o m e s u c h t h e n th e M a z z c ’s c o u n s e l b e — A n d a s k o f h e r th e c a u s e s o f h e r s o r r o w . A n t o n O x c lig . (S te p s f o v t l i f r o n t th e c r o u d ) . I f fo r th e M a z z e y e a p le a d e r s e e k . R e a d y a n d g l a d I a m to a c t a s s u c h . I r e c o g n i s e in h e r m y m u c h - i o v ’d f a t h e r , T h e L a n d e s r a t h , a n d o u r d e a r F a t h e r -T h c s o r r o w i n g M a z z e t h e r e f o r e w i l l I q u e s t i o n : W h o m a y h a v e b r o u g h t o n h e r t h e s e b it t e r w o e s , A n d s h e th e d e a d ly e n e m y s h a ll n a m e , W h o l o n g t h e p e o p l e ’s a n g e r h a s d e s e r v e d . (H e g ive s th e ta m b o u r s a s ig n , th e d r u m s a re b eaten). O M a z z e ! s p e a k ! W h o i s i t t h a t h a s b u r n e d T h in e e y e s w ith c a u s t i c ? — W h o i s it h a s c l o s e d T h y m o u t h ? — W h o th a t h a s c r o w n e d th y h e a d w i t h t h o r n s ? I s ’t t h e y o f S i l i n o n , w h o o n c e t h i s la n d D id r u l e ? (T h e M a z z e r e m a in s m o tio n less). S e v e r a l V o ic e s . T h e M a z z e s p e a k s n o t : t h e y a r e n o t a t f a u lt.

(T h e d r u m s a r e beaten a sec o n d tim e ).

A n t o n O w l i g . S p e a k ! W a s i t o t h e r s ? W a s it t h e A m - H e n g a r t , W h o l o n g o ’e r u s a u t h o r i t y d id w i e l d ? ( T h e M a z z e r e m a in s m o tio n less). O t h e r V o ic e s . N e it h e r a r e t h e s e t h e M a z z c ’s e n e m ie s . ( T h e d r u m s a r e b eaten a t h i r d tim e ). A n t o n O w l i g . 0 M a z z e ! s p e a k th e n : is i t t h e y o f R a r o n . W h o n o w w it h h a r s h n e s s lo r d it o ’e r th e

( T h e M a z z e bow s loie ; m u r m u r s a m o n g the p e o p le ).

I s i t th e C a p t a in - G e n ’r a l, t h e o ’e r - b e a r i n g ? — T h e p r o u d a n d h a u g h t y b a r o n , G u is c a r d

T h e n o b l e w h o is h o u s e d in B e a u r e g a r d ? — I (T h e m a zze how s r e p e a te d l y , th e m u r m u r s j a m o n g th e p e o p le g r o w lo u d er a n d lo u d e r .) O f o lk o f B r i c g ! t h e M a z z o n o w h a s 1 s p o k e n ! T h e t r a it o r to h is c o u n t r y s t a n d s d is c lo s e d W h e r e f o r e d o y e d e l a y , r e v e n g e to s w e a r ? ( A f t e r a p a u s e ). D e a t h to o u r f o e !— t h e t r a it o r t o h is c o u n t r y ! T h e P e o p l e . D e a t h to o u r f o e ! — th e t r a it o r to h is c o u n t r y !

(W h ile A n to n O irlig c o n 'ln u e s s p e a k in g , the p eo p le re p e a t these w o r d s w ith in c r e a s in g f u r g ) . A ti t o n O w l iff. W h o tr a m p le s o n o u r c o u n t r y ’s c u s t o m s a l l ! C o n c lu d e s a n d b r e a k s t r e a t i e s to p le a s e h im s e l f ! B a r t e r s o u r la n d a w a y to f o r e i g n c o u n t s ! T h e P e o p le . D e a th to o u r f o e ! — t h e t r a it o r t o h is c o u n t r y ! A n t o n O w l i g . H i m s e l f a p p r o p r ia t e s t h e l a n d s r e v e n u e s ! H e k e e p s t h e tr o o p s w i t h o u t t h e i r l i a r d - e a r n ’d w a g e ! A n d d r i v e s t h e p o o r m a n fr o m h i s w e a lt h y T h e P e o p le . D e a t h t o o u r f o e ! — t h e tr a it o r t o h is c o u n t r y ! A n t o n O w l ig . W i t h o u t a c a u s e o u r S w i s s a l l i e s h e h a t e s ! T h e p e o p l e ’s l i b e r t y b y fo r c e s u p p r e s s e s ! A n d f i l l s o u r la n d w it h m o u r n in g a n d w i t h s o r r o w ! T h e P e o p le . D e a t h to o u r f o e ! — t h e tr a it o r to h is c o u n tr y ! A n t o n O w l i g . O u r L a n d c s r a t h b y g u i l e h e h a s s u p ­ p r e s s e d ! I n d u n g e o n s d a r k th e n o b l e s t m c n c o n fin e d ! A n d th e m b y c r u e l m e a n s o f s i g h t d e p r i v e d ! T h e P e o p l e . D e a t h to o u r f o e ! — t h e t r a it o r t o h is c o u n t r y . A n t o n O w l ig . N o w , s tu r d y m e n o f B r i e g ! y e e r s t h a v e D e s e r v e d r e v e n g e u p o n o u r c o u n tr y ’s f o e , T h a t s o o n s h a ll fu ll u p o n h is h a u g h t y A n d n o w , i n c o n fir m a tio n o f o u r o a t h , W h ic h , s p it e o f a l l o u r s a v a g e f o e m a y d o , I n e v i t a b ly s h a l l b e c a r r ie d o u t — S e e , i n m y h a n d I h o ld a n i r o n n a il, T h e s h a r p e s t a n d t h e l o n g e s t I c o u ld fin d — T il l s n a il I n o w in t o t h e M a z z e s t r ik e , I n t o k e n o f o u r tr o th a n d o u r r e s o lv e . ( l i e s t r ik e s th e n a il in to th e club w ith a h a m m e r ). M a n g V o ic e s . O u r o a th o f v e n g e a n c e xve’re r e s o lv e d t o k e e p , L o n g a s th e n a il s h a ll i n t h e M a z z e h o ld ! A n t o n O w l i g . B u t , n o b l e fo lk o f B r i e g ! y o u r v e n g e a n c e F a l l t e r r ib ly o n t h e i n s u l t i n g f o e . F o r s e e ! t h e M a z z e ’s f i x e d u p o n a c lu b , C u t f r o m a s t r o n g a n d k n o t t y s t e m o f T h u s a l s o w it h a c lu b y o u r e n e m ie s M u s t s m i t t e n b e - l i k e to a s a v a g e b u ll, S t r u c k , b e a te n d o w n , a n d s la in b y s o m e s t r o n g g i a n t . A n d w h o — w h o i s th e g i a n t ? W h o t h e c lu b ? T h e g i a n t i s t h e m e n o f U p p e r V a l a i s ! T h e c l u b — w h a t is i t b u t th e L a n d e s - s tu r m ! M a n y V o ic e s . H u r r a h ! th e L a n d e s s t u r m s h a ll b e c a l l ’d O t h e r V o ic e s . H u r r a h ! h u r r a h ! th e m o n s t e r w e w i l l s l a y ! A n t o n O w l ig . A w o r k it i s t h a t n o d e l a y w ill b r o o k , S e e i n g w e h a v e w i t h v i o l e n c e to s t r iv e , W ith t r e a c h e r y a n d g u il e . W i t h in s e v e n T h e L a n d e s s t u r m m u s t b e p r e p a r e d a n d R e a d y to s w e e p t h e V a l l e y o f t h e R h o n e , W h e r e e v e r y d u n g e o n th e n s h a ll b o u n ­ l o c k e d , T h e c a s t le s o f th e t y r a n t s a l l d e s t r o y e d .

— 7o — T h e e a g l e ’s e y r i e s b u r n e d ! T h e n w ill w e h o ld D u e r e c k ’n in g w ith th e fo c m e n o f o u r la n d , W h o n o w t o o l o n g h a v e tr a m p le d o n o u r T h e n s h a ll o u r V a la is o n c e a g a i n b e f r e e ! T h e P e o p le . T h e n s h a ll o u r V a l a i s o n c e a g a i n b e f r e e ! A n t o n O i c l i g . ( I n a lo u d voice, to th e M a z z e -m a s te r ). N o w , M a z z e - m a s t e r , u p ! a n d le a d th e T o e v e r y v i l l a g e o f o u r f a t h e r l a n d ! L e t h e r b e s e e n b e n e a t h th e l o f t y F u r k a , W h e r e f r e s h a n d c l e a r R h o n e ' s i c y s o u r c e s H ow , L e t h e r b e s e e n in t h e d e e p V is p e r t b a l , W h e r e t o w e r s a l o f t th e p e e r l e s s M a t te r -L e t h e r b e s e e n o n t h e g r e a t A lc t s c h G l a c i e r , W h o s e p o n d e r o u s m a s s e s fill t h e L ö t s c h e n -Y e s , e v e r y w h e r e th e M a z z e s h a l l b e In e v e r y p la c e s h e s h a ll a s s i s t a n c e b e g ! A n d a s , a t B r i e g , w e n o w h a v e s w o r n o u r o a th , T h e p e o p l e e v e r y w h e r e s h a ll s w e a r — in G o m s , in M ö r e l, I n V is p , in S ic r r e , — a n d in a ll th e “ T e n t h s .” M o u n t u n t o m o u n t, v a l e u n to v a l e s h a l l c a l l ; “ V a la is h a s r is e n in r ig h t e o u s i n d i g ­ n a t i o n ; ” T h e n w ill b e b r o u g h t to p a s s w h a t T h o m a s B u n d e n , T h e h e r o - g ia n t in t h e G o m s e r th a l, S p a k e a s h e s t o o d b e n e a t h th e B is h o p ’s R o c k : “ T h e M a z z e ' s d a y , t h a t i s t h e d a y o f f r e e d o m ! ” (T h e d r u m s a r e so u n d e d , a n d th e M a z z e is c a r r ie d r a p i d ly a tr a y , w h ereu p o n ) T h e P e o p le (sh o u t in a voice o f th u n d e r ) : T h e M a z z e ' s d a y , t h a t i s t h e d a y o f f r e e d o m !

W e will now leave B rieg and pay a visit to th e n eig h ­ b ouring village o f Glis. T h e old C apuchin C onvent to the left o f the road has long since fallen into ruins, and its church h as for m any years been converted into a th e a tre for the students. An avenue o f p o p lar-trees leads us in ten m inutes to th e extrem ely an cien t village o f G lis (E cclesia), a celebrated pilgrim age-place w ith a san ctu ary in honour of th e V irgin Mary. I t contains the la rg e st church in th e canton, and th e parish itself is very extensive, m easu rin g no less th an 27 m iles in length, an d including besides B rieg and Glis a n um ber of sm aller p lace s,— G am sen, O ber and U n te r- IIo lz , B rigerbad, E g g e rb e rg , and the en tire B rig erb erg w ith its num erous ham lets.

T h e object o f o u r visit is to inspect the a rt treasu res o f the church. T he im pression produced by th e in terio r o f th e building as a w hole is not a favourable o n e; its b eau ty is m uch im paired by th e m ingling o f various arch itectu ral styles. The fine G othic choir is disfigured by a hideous rococo a lta r ; on the o th er hand the ro u n d -arch ed nave, w hich is plastered

and w hitew ashed in m odern fashion, contains tw o beautiful G othic a lta rs. Its side doorw ay again is a Gothic work, w hile th e broad, lig h t main entrance, w ith its m assive colum ns of serpentine, is in th e m odern Italian, and th e m odernised tow er in th e R om anesque style. T h e choir contains an old G erm an painting, th e A doration o f th e Magi ; this venerable w ork of a r t is a relic of th e ancient G othic h ig h -altar, o th er rem nants of w hich are still to be found behind th e presen t one. Form erly th e re were m an y sim ilar a lta rs in th e canton, and hero and th ere rem ain s of them y e t exist. In th e last century th ey were to a g re a t e x te n t displaced by m odern Italian altars of h u g e size, o u tgrow ths of a barbarous taste. I n th e rig h t side chapel stands an a lta r w ith a carving ( i fa t e r dolorosa) of no g re a t

value ; b u t the a lta r itself is o f in te re st to th e h isto rian , since

011 the ex terio r o f th e triptych a t the back Bri eg is represented

as it appeared in th e sev en teen th cen tu ry . T he G othic a lta r w ith triptych in the chapel of S t. A nna is a gem of a rt. I t was erected in the y ear 1519 by a native o f H aters, th e p ow er­ ful cap ta in -g en eral of the c a n to n , George A u f- d e r - F lu ii or

S u p ersa xo . O n th e ex terio r o f th e folding sh u tters his p o rtrait

is painted, as also are those of his wife M argaret L e h n e r and th e ir tw en tv -th reo children. T h e interior o f th e triptych contains

w ell-executed gilt carvings. T h e tw o side triptychs re p re se n t

th e N ativity an d th e A doration of th e Magi. W e subjoin an

e x tra c t from the old chronicler Stum pfius, in w hich he gives

a n account of G eorge o f S u p ersax o , who w as contem porary w ith th e g re a t C ardinal Schinner.

“ A t G lyss b elo w th e c h u rc h R itte r G e o rg e A u f-d c r-F lu h , w hilom a k n ig h t a n d la n d m a n n (la n d e sh a u p tm a n n o r c a p ta in -g e u e r a l, fo rm erly th e

h ig h e s t te m p o ra l d ig n ity in V a lais) h ad a p re tty little h o u se, s u rm o u n te d b y a to w e r, w h e re he sp e n t m uch o f his tim e . In p e rs o n h e w as a fine, p rin c e ly , a n d d o u g h ty m an ; in his y o u th h e h a d fo u g h t in th e se rv ic e o f th e D uke o f M ilan, a n d a fte rw a rd s in th a t o f th e K in g o f F r a n c e , an d a c q u ire d n o t o n ly g r e a t a u th o rity a n d a g r e a t n a m e , b u t also k n ig h th o o d , a la rg e e sta te , g ifts, a n d a n n u a l p e n sio n s, by w hich m ean s he becam e ric h a n d o b ta in e d so g r e a t a u th o rity am o n g th e p e o p le , th a t, w ith the h e lp an d a d h e re n c e o f h is p a rty , h e w as n o t only th e m an o f g re a te s t influence in th e lan d , b u t a lso d ro v e o u t th e b ish o p s a n d p rin c e s o f th e

la n d m o re th a n once, as w ill be p re s e n tly n a rra te d . F o r tu n e becam e q u ite su b se rv ie n t to him . H e m a rrie d a b e au tifu l la d y o f th e la n d , b y w hom he h a d tw e n ty -th re e c h 'ld r e n , so n s a n d d a u g h te rs . H e h a d h o u se s and d w e llin g s in m an y p la c e s in th e c an to n , a s a t N a te rs a n d G lyss, an d a t Sion, th e c a p ita l, h e h ad a c o u rt a n d p a la c e .* A lso a t M artig n y in L o w er V alais ho b u ilt an d o w n e d a n in n w h ich sta n d s in fro n t o f th e castle . His p o sse ssio n s a n d h is g lo rie s c a n n o t a ll be n a rra te d h e re , n o r a re th ey all kn o w n to m e. H e w a s o f a h ig h a n d p rin c e ly m in d . H e e n la rg e d th e c h u rc h o f G ly ss an d b u ilt a c h a p e l to th e rig h t o f it, an d b elo w th e a lta r o f th is c h ap e l he m ade h im s e lf a p rin c e ly s e p u lc h re ; b u t h o n e v e r o c ­ cu p ie d it. On th e trip ty c h o f th e a lta r he p la c ed th e p o rtra its o f h im se lf a n d h is w ife a n d a ll his so n s a n d d a u g h te rs , a n d in th e a d jo in in g w all a g ilt in sc rip tio n h ew n in th e sto n e in h is m e m o ry :

S . A N N A E D I V A E V I R G I N I S M A T R I , G E O R G I U S S U P E R S A X O , M I L E S A V . H A N G C A P E L L A M E D I D I T A N N O S A L V T I S 1 5 1 9. A L 'L 'A R E F U N D A V I T E T D O T A V I T I V R E P A T R O N . H A E R E D 1 B U S S V I S R E S E R V A T O , C V M E X M A R G A R E T A V X O R E N A T O S X X I I I . G E N V I S S E T .

“ H e h ad tw elve sons a n d elev en d a u g h te rs , a n d if th e p a in tin g s on th e rc re d o s a re faithful p o rtr a its , 1 h a v e n e v e r seen a m o re h a n d so m e fam ily o f p a re n ts a n d c h ild re n . He liv ed te n y e a rs a fte r b u ild in g th is c h ap e l, an d in h is o ld a g e h e b ecam e h a te d by h is c o u n try m e n a n d w as a c c u s e d o f h a v in g ta k e n p a r t in s ev e ra l affairs a g a in s t h is ow n c o u n try , a n d o f h a v in g re c e iv e d la rg e sum s o f m o n ey from th e k in g o f F ra n c e w ith o u t d is trib u tin g a n y p a rt o f th e m oney a m o n g th e p e o p le . F o r th e se re a so n s th e p e o p le re b e lle d a g a in s t G e o rg e A u f-d e r-F lu h in th e y e a r o f o u r L o rd 1529, a n d to o k up arm s. W h e n G e o rg e p e rc e iv e d th is , ho did n o t w ait fo r th e m to d is p la y th e m a z z e , b u t ro se up in th e n ig h t and e sc a p e d in a sled g e o u t o f th e la n d to V evoy on th e L uke o f G en ev a, w h e re h e sh o rtly a fte rw a rd s d ie d a n d w as b u rie d , h a v in g c o n stru c te d his p rin c e ly tom b a t G lyss to no p u rp o se . T h u s w as h e , w h o fo rm erly h a d h e ad e d so m any in s u rre c tio n s a g a in st th e p rin c e s o f th e co u n try a n d the b ish o p s, a n d h a d d riv e n o u t se v e ra l o f th em , a t la s t d riv e n by in su rre c tio n

* T h i s p a la c e i s s t i l l s t a n d i n g in S io n , a n d i s d e s e r v i n g o f a v i s i t . T h e s t a i r c a s e , w it h i t s g r o t e s q u e f i g u r e s i n r i d i c u le o f h is o p p o n e n t S c h in n c r , a n d e s p e c i a l l y th e h a ll , w i t h i t s fin e c a r v i n g s , b e a r w i t n e s s to t h e w e a lt h a n d a r t is t ic t a s t e s o f i t s b u ild e r .

from h is n a tiv e la n d , a n d found a g ra v e a m o n g fo re ig n e rs. H is n u m ero u s c h ild re n , h a n d so m e sons a n d d a u g h te rs, also p e ris h e d in a v e ry sh o rt tim e. I h av e s e t d o w n th e se th in g s c o n c e rn in g th is m an so lely in o rd e r th a t no one m ay confide too m uch in fo rtu n e, p ro s p e rity , a n d te m p o ra l w e lfa re , b u t th a t e v ery o n e m ay b u ild u p o n G od, th e only su re fo u n d a tio n , fo r a ll th e b e a u ty , a n d th e o rn a m e n t, a n d th e m ag n ificen ce o f th is body is in c o n s ta n t: so so o n as th e m ig h ty G od b low s u p o n it w ith h is w in d and b la s t from h e a v e n , it fa d e s a n d w ith e rs aw ay lik e th e flo w eret o f th e field.”

B efore leaving the church we m u st cast a glance a t the o rgan loft. T h e excellent new o rg an is th e work o f a young a rtist of V alais, Conrad C arlen. H e is the youngest scion o f the C arlen fam ily, of Goms, who for several g enerations have devoted them selves to organ building, and have constructed m ost o f the organs in the canton. O f th e older products of th e ir skill the m agnificent o rgan, com pleted in 1774, in th e cathedral o f Sion, is especially deserving of m ention.

L ess th a n a m ile from Glis, dow n the v a lle y , lies the ham let of Gamsen, on th e G am sabach, which b ursts from tho N an zerth al and covers the valley far and wide w ith its detritus. T he nam e o f th is u n pretentious little village is w ell known to entom ologists th ro u g h o u t th e world as th e hom e of A n d e r-

egyen, th e butterfly collector, a m an of hum ble station who

has m ade discoveries in th is field o f investigation w hich many a g re a t n a tu ra list m ight envy; several species o f butterflies have b een nam ed after him . T he insect fau n a o f U pper V alais, and especially of th e lateral valleys o f th e Sim plon, is an ex trem ely diversified one, n o t only in gen eral, b u t m ore p a rti­ cularly as reg ard s species peculiar to this district.

O pposite G am sen, on the rig h t bank o f th e Elione, are th e B aths of Bvieg, w arm gypsum w aters above w hich a b a th ­ house was b uilt as early as th e y ear 1525. I t w as destroyed by a land-slip or an earth q u ak e, and for m any years th e th erm al w aters flowed off unutilised into th e Rhone ; but recently the spring has been again tu rn ed to account, and a

hum anity if th ese an cie n t b a th s could be again resto red in th eir com pleteness.

For th e antiquarian also th ere is an object o f in te re st in th e vicinity, th e G am sen W a ll, w hich ex ten d s to the w est of th e village from th e m ountains in the south as fa r as the Rhone, th u s com pletely b a rrin g access to th e upper districts of th e canton. Concerning the period in w hich th is defensive work w as constructed, and th e purpose it was intended to serve, we can learn b u t little from ex istin g historical reco rd s; b u t its stru c tu re indicates th a t it form ed not a dam against the wild G am sa, but a fortification o f th e V iberi ag ain st the Seduni. T h e old chronicler whom we have alread y quoted w as probably n o t far w rong in his conjectures :

“ I t is a v e ry a n c ie n t p ie c e o f m a so n ry , b u ilt a c c o rd in g to som e by th e R o m a n s, w h e n th e y c ro sse d th e m o u n ta in S em p ro n ii o r S im p ilen (S im p lo n ) on a n e x p ed itio n a g a in s t th e G au ls. O th e rs o p in e th a t it is o f still m o re a n c ie n t o rig in , b e in g a b u lw a rk e re c te d by th e U p p e r L c p o n tin c V ib eri, d w ellin g in th e d is tric ts o f Goins a n d B rie g , a g a in s t th e in cu rsio n s of th e S ed u n i, a p e o p le d w e llin g b e tw e e n th is re g io n a n d th e R iv e r M orsa below S io n : for in all a g e s th e S ed u n i h a d m o re n o b le an d pow erfu l ru le rs , an d w ere m o re ru le d and s u b je c te d to th e yo k e o f serv itu d e th a n th e V ib e ri ab o v e th em , as is ev id en ced by th e s tro n g h o ld s o f th e n obles a t V isp , R a ro n , Z um T h u rm , L e u k , S ie rrc , P e r r i g a r d *, G ra d e tz , E nfisch, S itten (S ion), &c. B u t w h en b o th p e o p le s, th e V ib e ri a n d th e Sed u n i, cam e in co u rse o f tim e u n d e r o ne ru le r, a n d th e ir la n d s w ere u n ite d , and th e y h a d to a g r e a t e x te n t fre e d th e m selv e s fro m t h e ir o p p re s so rs a n d d e stro y e d th e s tro n g h o ld s o f th em , the ra m p a rt in q u e stio n w a s qu ite n e g le cte d , so th a t it fell in to d e ca y .”

E a rly in th e p resen t century th ere w ere found h e re , in digging the foundation o f a barn, several w eapons, including a broken halberd and two ru s ty sw ords.

T his artificial fortification no doubt stood in connection w ith th e hills w hich projected so fa r into the valley, and upon which, as is still handed down by popular tradition, beacon fires and signals w ere lit in form er tim es to call the people to arm s. T hese spots are still know n th ro u g h o u t U pper V alais;

* B e a u r e g a r d , a s i t i s m o r e c o r r e c t l y s p e l l e d , w a s s i t u a t e d h ig h a b o v e th e e n t r a n c e to th e E if i s c h t h a l ; i t w a s t h e s e a t o f G u ls c a r d o f R a r o n .

above B rieg it is the B ü h l on th e B rig erb erg and below Gam sen the B ohrberg w hich a re said to have served th ese purposes. B oth afford th e trav eller a m agnificent view.

A lto g eth er th e environs o f B rieg afford an abundance o f delightful w alks ; w e will h ere m ention only those to the

Closi and to th e B u rg sp itze.

T he Closi is a rocky defile above N aters, an d a visit to it occupies no m ore th an Id/a or 2 h o u rs. H u g e rocky walls broken by wild and ru g g ed gorges, m agnificent groups o f trees affording refre sh in g shade, cry stal springs, ru sh in g m ountain- to rren ts, an d an e x u b e ra n t veg etatio n lend th e entire district

an e x trao rd in ary charm . I t is n o t to be w ondered a t th a t

th is spot h as alw ays a ttra c te d n um erous visitors. W e are still show n, in a shady place, tw o seats hew n in th e rock, w here C ardinal S chinner and th e C aptain-G eneral S upersaxo are said to have frequently rested in th e ir you n g er days to discuss the

affairs o f th e province. H appy would it h av e been for the

land if th e early friendship betw een th ese two g re a t m en had endured th ro u g h o u t th e ir lives !

T he B u rg sp itze (about 3600 feet above th e sea) is reached

from B rieg in a little m ore th a n a n hour. W e follow the

Sim plon road along th e B rig erb erg as far as R efuge N o. 1, in th e h am let o f Schlucht. F rom h ere a steep footpath leads in a fewT m inutes along th e C alvarienberg to th e chapel on th e B u rg sp itze, w here an extensive prospect is unfolded to th e eye.

B efo re w e re su m e o u r tra v e ls i t re m a in s to say a few w o rd s re g a rd in g th e v e g e ta tio n o f B rie g a n d its v icinity. A n d first o f all it is d e sira b le th a t w e co m p a re , a t le a s t in b ro a d o u tlin e s, th e flora o f th is d is tric t w ith th a t o f th e re m a in in g p o rtio n o f th e lo w e r v a lle y o f th e R hone.

A jb u rn e y u p th e v alley o f th e R h o n e is in th is re s p e c t ex tre m e ly ric h in re m a rk a b le fe a tu re s ; th e v e g e ta tio n m ay be said to c h a n g e from h o u r to h o u r, w ith ev ery b e n d in th e v alley , offerin g n ew ra ritie s to the co lle cto r,— ra r itie s w h ich ho w ould see k in v a in n o t only e lse w h e re in C an to n V alais, b u t in a n y o th e r p a r t o f S w itzerlan d .

T o a d d u c e b u t o ne e x am p le, th e d is tric t below th e defile o f St. M aurice, b e in g in flu en ced by th e la c u s tr in e clim ate, h as q u ite a n o th e r v e rn a l flora th a n th e h in e r v alley o f th e R h o n e. T h e re we find fresh v e r d u r e ; h e re

s co rch e d a n d s u n b u rn t ro ck y h e a t h s ; in th e lo w e r p a rt th e h ills a n d p la in s a re a d o rn e d in e arly sp rin g tim e w ith a w e alth o f blossom s, w h ile in V alais p ro p e r, a t th a t p e rio d o f th e y e a r, only th e r a re s t p la n ts a re to b e found h e re a n d th e re b y b o ta n is ts fa m ilia r w ith th e lo cality . P r im u la e la tio r

a n d a c a u lis (to g e th e r w ith th e ir h y b rid s), A n e m o n e n e m o ro sa an d r a m m -

culoides, A l liu m itr s in u m , A r u m m a c u la tim i, A s a r u m e u ro p œ u m , D a p h n e L a u re o la , B u s e n s a c u le a tu s an d o th e rs a p p e a r a lre a d y in th e m o n th o f

M arch in th e w o o d s an d m ead o w s o f th e lake d is tr ic t; b u t above ß t. M aui ice th e r e a re b lo o m in g a t th e sam e tim e , b u t only on v e ry w arm a n d s h e lte re d slo p es, esp ecially n e a r B ra n so n a n d S io n , p la n ts b e lo n g in g to a m oro so u th e rn flora, A n e m o n e m o n ta n a , B u lb o co d iu m v e r m in i, G agea s a x a t i lis, a n d A d o n is v e r n a lis . E v en if w e confine o u rse lv es to a sin g le o rd e r o f p la n ts , w e sh all find it re p re s e n te d very d ifferen tly in th e tw o d is tric ts o f the c an to n . V io la S te v e n ii, a re n a r ia , collin a , a n d m ir a b ilis , so w idely d iffused from M artig n y to fa r u p in th e v alley o f th e R h o n e , a re s e a rc h e d fo r in vain in th e lo w e r p a rt, w h e re , h o w e v e r, V io la alba, sco to p liylla , a n d m u ltic a u lis a re v e ry com m on in th e c h e s tn u t and la rc h g ro v e s betw een S t. M aurice, M o nthey, a n d V o u v ry .

W e m ay ev en go fu rth e r a n d say th a t ev ery p la c e in V a la is, ev ery la te ra l v alley, a n d alm o st e v ery a lp h a s its ow n re p re s e n ta tiv e s , ra ritie s w h ich a re found o n ly in a s in g le sp o t e ith e r in V alais o r in all S w itz e r­ la n d . T r o c h isc a n th e s n o d ijlo r u s in th e v icin ity o f S t. M aurice ; S a x i f r a g a

leu ca n th a , V e sic a ria u t r ic u la ta , a n d O rchis sa m b u c in a in th e ro c k y hollow

o f V e rn a y a z ; H e lia n th e m u m s a lic ifo liu m n e a r B ra n s o n ; sev e ra l U m belli-

fe r c e in th e n e ig h b o u rh o o d o f M a rtig n y ; P a p ilio n a ce œ in th e c h estn u t-

w oods o f F u lly ; L o n ic e ra e tn is c a in Saillon, a n d o p p o site th e la tte r p la c e, below Is e ra b lo z , S is y m b r iu m p a n n o n ic u m a n d D ra c o c e p h a lu m a u s tr ia c u m . P o ly m o rp h o u s Ila w k w e e d s o f th e sec tio n A n d ry a lo 'id ea h ero m ak e th e ir a p p e a ra n c e in g re a t n u m b e r a n d in a d iv e rsity o f form s n o t y e t sufficiently w ell-k n o w n , esp e c ia lly a t th e e n tra n c e to th e l a te r a l v a lle y s, a m o n g th e ro c k s o f th e ir n a rro w e ro siv e g o rg e s . N e a r C o n th ey w e find T h u r g e n ia

la tifo lia , P a p a r e r h y b rid u m , a n d L e p id iu m g r a m in ifo liu m ; n e a r Sion

to g e th e r w ith T u li p a O c u lis-so lis, I r i s lutescen s, an d P u n ica G ra n a tim i, p la n ts w h o se sp ec ia l h a b ita t is s u n -b u rn t h e a th s, su ch a s E p h e d r a hel-

vetica, O p u n tia v u lg a r is , S a x i f r a g a b u lb ife r a , Poa co ncinna, a n d o th e rs.

B etw e e n S ie rre a n d L e u k , in th e sh ad o w o f th e ir firs, w h ich re m in d us by th e ir b ro a d cro w n s o f th e p in es o f Ita ly , C o ro n illa m in im a an d E u p h r a s ia

viscosa occu r. S o m ew h at h ig h e r a b o v e G am p el th e w ig -p la n t ( R h u s

C o tin u s) form s e n tire g ro v e s, a n d in V isp w e find S is y m b r iu m I r io a n d D ic ta m n u s a lb u s. N o w h ere e lse e x c e p t on the G re a t St. B e rn a rd can we

c o lle ct su ch a v a rie ty o f b eau tifu l sp ec ie s o f P e d ic u la r is , as w ell a s th e r a re C h æ r o p h y llu m e le g a n s ; only in th e V al B agno C a re x u s fid a ta an d

S a x i f r a g a diapensoYdes, in th e V al d ’IIé ré m e n c e C a re x m icro g lo c h in , in

Z e rm a tt alo n e P o te n til/a a m b ig u a , S c ir p u s a l p i n u s , T h la s p i a lp in u m ,

A ly s s u m a lp e stre , A l liu m s tr id i m i , an d th e r a re s t C a rices; in th e S aas

v alley A lsin e a retio id es, P le u r o g y n e c a rin th ia c a , A r te m is ia n a n a , &c. &c. T h u s too B rie g , w ith th e N a tv rs b e rg a n d the n o rth e rn a cc liv ity o f th e Sim plon, affords us m uch th a t is new a n d in te re s tin g — a v e g etatio n in