Rice quality
in the European Union
The European Union
is almost self-sufficient
in terms of rice volumes
produced, but is far from
meeting needs for high
quality varieties.
Round- and medium-grain
rices, which generally
become soft when cooked,
are mainly produced
in the European Union,
while the greatest demand
is for long- and slender-
grain rices that remain
firm when cooked.
Production options should
thus be adjusted, with
in-depth research on
varieties most preferred
by consumers and the
food industry.
T
h e re European demand for cereals has b e e n s te a d y and c e re a l- b a s e d p r o d u c t s for hum an c o nsu m p tion , but rice is an exception. Its share of the market is rising at the same rate as in USA. For 25 years, rice co n s u m p tio n has b e e n e x p a n d i n g b e y o n d th e t r a d i t i o n a l r i c e - g r o w i n g areas, especially in Africa and Europe.Rice production
and trade
in Europe
R ic e is g r o w n in 10 E u ro p e a n c o u n trie s , a lo n g w it h the Russian Federation and Ukraine. A cco rding to F A O s ta t i s t i c s ( 1 9 9 3 ) , r ic e p ro d u c tio n in this w h o le zone was 3 .1 7 m i l l i o n t / a n n u m in 1 9 9 2 , or
J. FAURE
CIRAD-CA, BP 5 0 3 5 , 3 4 0 3 2 Montpellier Cedex 1, France
F. M A Z A U D
AGS-PFL, FAO, Via delle Terme di Caracalla, Rome, Italy Russian Federation 'Germany Ireland Ukraine Lu^émWç lungary. France Romania _&ç-Yuí|osl M o roa
] Rice-producing countries • '/ / / European Union countries
Figure 1. Rice-producing countries in Europe and the Mediterranean region.
0 .6 % o f w o r l d p r o d u c t i o n , w h i c h was estimated at 528 m illion t for the same year (Table 1 ; Figure 1 ).
T h e r e are f i v e r i c e - p r o d u c i n g c o u n t r i e s in th e E u ro p e a n U n i o n (EU): Italy (59% o f the EU o utput), Spain (25%), France (5.5%), Portugal (5%) and G reece (4.5% ). In 1992, t h e y p r o d u c e d 2.21 m i l l i o n t o f p a d d y r ic e , e q u i v a l e n t to a b o u t 1 .4 6 m i l l i o n t o f w h i t e r ic e , on 361 000 ha of rice cropland. E u ro p e a n U n i o n , w h e r e a n n u a l c o n s u m p t i o n is e s t im a t e d to be 1.5 million t of w hite rice equivalent, has an a p p a r e n t m ea n a n n u a l self-sufficiency rate of 85-90% for rice p r o d u c t i o n / c o n s u m p t i o n . In fact, there is excess production o f round- and medium-grain rice, w hich are tra d itio na l crops and represent 8 3 % ‘of th e o v e r a ll E u ropean p r o d u c t i o n .
Table 1. Paddy rice production in Europe and the Mediterranean countries in 1992 (FAO, 1993). Country Area (1 000 ha) Yield (t/ha) Production (1 000 t) France 24 5.3 125 Greece 14 7.0 101 Italy 216 6.0 1 314 Portugal 21 5.2 110 Spain 86 6.5 554
TOTAL European Union 361 6.1 2 214
Albania 1 0.5 1 Bulgaria 5 2.5 11 Hungary 5 3.11 15 Romania 16 2.4 39 Yugoslavia, SFR - - -Macedonia, FR 8 5.0 43 TOTAL Europe 397 5.6 2 323 Russian Federation 265 2.8 754 Ukraine 24 3.8 92 Egypt 511 7.6 3 910 Morocco 7 3.0 22
Table 2. Estimate of 1993-1994 imports of white rice equivalent by future European Union members and Norway (source: Marchés rizicoles Hebdo n° 412).
Country Population (1 000 inhabitants) Imports (1 000 t) Consumption per capita (kg/year) Austria 7.7 66.7 8.7 Finland 5.0 20.9 4.2 Sweden 8.5 39.6 4.7 Norway 4.2 12.0 2.8 TOTAL 25.4 139.2 5.5
However, there is a marked deficit of slender long-grain indica rice, gene rally grown in the tropics, due to the h ig h d o m e s t i c m a r k e t d e m a n d . European U n io n thus exports about 400 0 0 0 1 and imports about 600 0 0 0 1 o f w h ite rice equivalent. H alf of the im p o r t s are h u s k e d (i.e. " c a r g o " ) i n d ic a v a r ie t ie s fr o m USA (5 3 % ), Thailand (15%), India/Pakistan (14%) and Surinam. The other half is made up o f rice from various origin s that is r e - e x p o r t e d a f te r m i l l i n g o r whitening. EU imports represent 4% of the 15 m illio n t w orld rice trade. F i n a l l y , t h e n e e d s o f t h e th r e e c o u n tr ie s — A u s tr ia , F in la n d and Sweden — that are to join the EU in 1997, and o f Norway, are estimated at 140 000 t o f w hite rice equivalent (Table 2). The rice production sector in Europe, under present conditions, w ill only be able to partially meet this increased d e m a n d w it h European ja p ó n ic a varieties. This means that t h e r e w i l l be m o r e i m p o r t s o f l o n g - g r a i n i n d i c a v a r i e t ie s , th u s further increasing the EU deficit.
European Union
consumption
patterns
The increase in ric e c o n s u m p tio n and c h a n g in g h a b its are p a rt o f a general dietary diversification trend that has been noted in Europe.
Changing food habits
R ic e f o r m e r l y had a s t a p le fo o d status, b u t o n l y w i t h i n p r o d u c in g r e g io n s , and w as c o n s id e re d as a lu x u r y dessert p r o d u c t e ls e w h e re . It is n o w o f interest for d ive rsifyin g c o n v e n t i o n a l d ie ts . C o n s u m p t io n p a t t e r n s h a v e c h a n g e d ; t h e r e is in c r e a s in g c o n s u m e r d e m a n d fo r high quality varieties and rice dishes, w i t h a w i l l i n g n e s s to p a y m o r e f o r th es e p r o d u c t s . T ra d e rs o n c e c l a s s i f i e d r ic e as a p r o d u c t w i t h no m a rk e t p o t e n t ia l, w h e re a s it is n o w c o n s i d e r e d as a d y n a m i c
Table 3. Mean per capita consumption of white rice equivalent in European Union from 1970 to 1990 (kg/person/year).
(Source: OECD, CEC, Eurostat, from CHATAIGNIER, 1991 ).
Country 1970 1980 1990 Annual increase (%) relative to 1970 United Kingdom 1.4 3.3 3.7 8.2 Germany 1.6 2.0 3.4 5.6 Ireland 1.0 2.1 1.8 4.0 Belgium + Luxemburg 1.6 4.2 3.5 5.9 Netherlands 3.0 3.5 5.1 3.5 Denmark 1.6 2.1 2.7 3.4 France 2.5 3.7 4.1 3.2 Italy 3.9 4.6 5.7 2.4 Spain - 6.3 6.3 -Portugal - 15.7 15.1 -Greece - 5.2 5.1
-Indica or japónica?
Six groups o f Asian cultivated rice (Oryza sativa) have been characterized using
m olecular markers (GLASZMANN et al., 1984). Japónica and indica are the most
important of these groups. The four other groups are not as well known but scientists and agriculture and food industries are now taking an interest in them for their special qualities (wild and aromatic rices), i.e. aus, sadri, basmati and tw o groups of floating rices from India and Bangladesh.
Indica group
The indica group includes tropical rices that are generally grown under aquatic
co n d itio n s in Asia. They have often been considered as u nsuitable fo r modern agriculture because o f their poor response to high fertilizer input. Nevertheless, the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) has extended some high-perform ance varieties to intensive cropping systems: IR refers to indica varieties.
The p o o r a d a p ta b ility o f these rices to some harsh so il c o n d it io n s and th e ir susceptibility to low temperatures has hindered their extension.
Indica rice varieties tend to have longer and more slender grains than those of the other
groups, but this is not always the case.
Japónica group
The japónica group is grown in mountainous regions of Asia, temperate parts of
northern China, Korea, Japan and the Mediterranean region. Rainfed varieties are dominant in Latin America and western Africa.
Japónica rices are of considerable interest for certain qualities such as cold and drought
resistance, and their adaptability to poor soils.
There is marked morphological variability between japónica varieties, e.g. the group
includes temperate short-stemmed, round-grain varieties o f Korea and Japan that grow w e ll under inte n sive irrig a te d c ro p p in g c o n d itio n s , as w e ll as long-ste m m e d , large-grain varieties grown in the tropics.
Grain-shapes in this group also vary, despite general o p in io n , they are not always round or large, e.g. japónica rice grown in southern USA, under irrigated subtropical
c o n d itio n s , has a long and slender grain. H ow e ve r, rice varieties in this group generally have round, short or medium grains.
What is indica-type rice?
European Union has decided to classify all slender long-grain rices within the indica type category, i.e. white rice with grains longer than 6 mm and a length/width ratio of more than 3 mm. This encompasses most varieties in the indica group and some in the japónica group, recently selected varieties in particular.
easy-to-cook product. Rice is a food in itself, o f considerable interest for m a n u fa c t u r e r s s e e k in g n e w fo o d products.
There are no longer c le a rc u t d iffe rences in c o n s u m p t i o n p a tte rn s b e tw e e n s o u th e r n E u rop e (ric e producers) and northern Europe (rice im p o r te rs ) . T he in c re a s e d ric e consumption in the North corresponds to lower potato and cooked vegetable c o n s u m p t i o n . Rice, as pasta, is th u s a s u p p le m e n t a r y s o u rc e o f carbohydrates and a high energy food. Rice c o o k i n g m e th o d s can d if f e r between regions and depend on the r ic e d is h p r e p a r e d . T h e y are also c u r r e n t l y c h a n g in g w i t h the in c r e a s in g c o n s u m p t i o n o f lo n g - g r a in i n d i c a r ic e s . R o u n d - and m e d iu m - g r a i n j a p ó n i c a rices are generally used in the preparation of various meals and soups in southern Eu rop ea n r ic e - p r o d u c i n g regions where these varieties grow w ell. For instance, b u lk y long-grain ja p ón ic a varieties produced in Italy are used for preparing risotto.
S w e l l i n g o f r ic e a fte r c o o k i n g is considered very im p o rta n t and the latter varieties are usually cooked in sm all q u a n titie s o f w a te r to a void loss o f solids th ro u g h drain age. In contrast, parboiled and indica-type rices d o n o t s h o w m a rk e d loss o f s o lid s a fte r c o o k i n g and are thus often cooked in excessive quantities of water in most parts of Europe. C o n s u m e r s g e n e r a l l y p re fe r fir m c o o k e d rice. H e n c e , rice cookers d e v e lo pe d in Japan and USA have re c e n tly b e c o m e v e ry p o p u la r for hom e co o k in g . The w ater q uantity and c o o k i n g t i m e are c o n t r o l l e d a u t o m a t i c a l l y a c c o r d i n g to th e quantity of rice to cook. Rice cooked by this technique is firmer.
Traders currently consider that, unless th e re is s u b s ta n tia l in v e s tm e n t in research for alternative uses and in marketing, the only future for round- grain rice w i l l be for m aking cakes and flour. Medium-grain rices seem to be limited to traditional preparations such as paella in Spain and risotto in Italy.
rice market
Research on
aromatic rice
In France, th e L a b o ra to ire des Substances N atu re lle s, ENSIA (Ecole n a tio n a le s u p é rie u re des in d u s trie s a lim e n ta ir e s , M assy, Fra n ce ), in c o ll a b o r a t io n w it h th e C e n tre de coopération internationale en recherche a g ro n o m iq u e pour le dévelo p p e m en t (C IR A D, France), are d e v e lo p in g an im p r o v e d te c h n iq u e to e x tr a c t and identify all aromatic com pounds from several va rie tie s o f rice m arketed in Europe. Genetic analyses to characterize aromatic rices are currently under way, as p a rt o f a thesis s tu d y , at th e Laboratoire de technologie des céréales (CIRAD), with the support of ENSIA. T h e F lo u r and M i l l i n g and B a k in g Research Association (FMBRA, United Kingdom) has used an image analysis technique to assess, in variety blends, a lt e r a t io n o f a r o m a t ic rice s by non-aromatic varieties (WHITWORTFI, 1993). They have also used the Rapid V isco A n a ly z e r to measure vis c o s ity o f rice slurries. The results ind ica te d that there is some relationship between th is v is c o s ity and th e p re s e n c e o f aromatic compounds.
O th e r studies w ere ca rrie d o u t some 10 years ago in USA to extract aromas, i d e n t if y th e c o m p o n e n ts and even synthesize acetyl-2-pyrrolinel, the main compound of this aroma.
Consumption rates
Rice consumption has increased at a f a s te r rate in n o r t h e r n E u ro p e a n countries where people are not tradi tional rice consumers, as compared to s o u th e rn Europe. C o n s u m p t io n reached 3.5 kg/person in n orth e rn Europe in 1990. H ow ever, rates are still b e lo w 5.7 kg in Italy, 6.3 kg in Spain and 7 kg in USA (Table 3). It is predicted that rice consumption w ill c o n tin u e to rise in northern Europe and g ra d u a lly level o ff in southern Europe.
In Italy , a n n u a l rice c o n s u m p tio n p e r i n h a b i t a n t i n c l u d e s a b o u t 5 kg o f ja p ó n i c a ric e ( ro u n d - and medium-grain varieties) and 300 g of i n d i c a r ic e ( s le n d e r l o n g - g r a i n varieties). Imported long-grain rice is g e n e r a l l y p r e f e r r e d in n o r t h e r n E u r o p e . In U n i t e d K i n g d o m , th e mean annual rice c o n s u m p tio n per person includes 700 g o f European
j a p ó n i c a rice and 3.7 kg o f in d ic a
rice (1993-1994 data; Table 4).
How can production
be adjusted?
O v e r th e last 20 years, p ro d u c e rs h a v e m a d e e ffo rts to a d ju s t t h e i r p r o d u c t i o n to m e e t d o m e s t i c m arket dem and for long-grain rice, especially in Italy, Spain and France. In Italy, cropping o f round-grain (i.e. short-grain) rice dropped from 70%
Table 4. Estimate of 1993-1994 indica/japonica consumption, in white rice equivalent, in European Union (source: Marchés rizicoles hebdo n° 412). Country Population Indica Japónica
(1 000 inhabitants) (1 0 0 0 1) (kg/capita) (1 0 0 0 1) (kg/capita)
Italy 56 20 0.3 300 5.0 Spain 35 10 0.3 215 6.1 Ireland 3 4 1.1 1 0.3 Greece 10 11 1.1 41 4.1 Denmark 5 7 1.2 11 1.9 Belgium + Luxemburg 10 15 1.4 3 0.3 Germany 78 118 1.5 62 0.8 Netherlands 14 29 2.0 6 0.4 France 56 144 2.4 124 2.0 Portugal 10 29 2.9 116 11.6 United Kingdom 57 207 3.7 40 2.7 TOTAL 334 594 1.7 919 0.7
of the overall cultivation zone in the 1 9 4 0 s to 1 2 % in 1 9 8 9 . O v e r th e same p e rio d , lo n g-gra in rice c r o p p in g in It a ly in c re a s e d to 6 0 % in 1989. In France, 65% of the area was cropped w ith round-grain varieties in 1980, and only 15% in 1993. Long- grain varieties (lo ng A and long B) n o w a c c o u n t f o r 7 9 % o f th e r ic e cropping area: 2 5% Thaïbonnet (long B, indica), 37% Ariete (long A) and 17% Koral (long A).
Since 1988, the Com m ission o f the European C o m m u n it ie s (CEC) has had an active role in these develop ments by allocating subsidies to rice growers. These grants increased from 100 ECU/ha ($35 000 US) in 1988 to 330 in 1993 to farmers w h o planted in d ic a t y p e lo n g - g r a in ric e . U n t il 1 99 3, it p ro v id e d farm ers w it h an incentive to plant rice that was most in demand in EU. Initially, the subsi dy was calculated to compensate for the reduction in their revenues due to the lo w e r y ie ld s o f in d ic a rices as compared to ja p ó n ic a varieties (i.e. field p ro du c tion 0.5-1 t/ha low er in temperate clim ates, w it h o n ly 58% m i l l i n g y i e l d , as c o m p a r e d to 61 -62% for japónica).
S in c e 1 9 9 3 , a f t e r th e la s t G A T T agreem ent, no d ir e c t subsidies are allowed for areas planted with indica r ic e . CEC has set up a n o t h e r procedure whereby no subsidies are p r o v i d e d f o r la n d c r o p p e d w i t h i n d i c a r ic e , b u t t h e p r o d u c e r 's purchase p ric e is fixe d at 9 4 % the CEC intervention price, as compared to 90% for other rices. Moreover, rice research institutes are to in tro du ce and a c c lim atiz e new early varieties from other temperate regions in the w orld, such as Chili and USA.
Diversity of rice products
European U n io n rice c o n s u m p tio n ca n be d i v i d e d i n t o t h r e e m a in sectors: home consumption (79% of the market), catering and c o lle c tiv i tie s ( 1 8 % ) a n d i n d u s t r y (3% ) (C H A T A IG N IE R , 1991). The latter tw o groups are expected to increase th eir percentage o f sales w it h in the next 10 years.
White rice (indica cv _ Thaïbonnet)
Long slender aromatic white rice (basmati group) Cargo rice (round-grain cv Ballila) White rice (medium-grain cv Ariete) Cargo rice (indica cv Thaïbonnet) Paddy rice (harvested rice)
Différents forms of rice.
Photo T. Erwin
Rice processing
Paddy ric e is th e ro u g h h a rve ste d form, w ith the grains still enclosed in protective glumes and glemma, called husks. After the husks are removed (the o p e ra tio n is kn o w n as d e h u llin g ), it becomes husked or cargo rice. W hole (or brown) rice is unprocessed (or only slightly processed) cargo rice: the outer layer can undergo some chafing. White ric e is o b ta in e d by re m o v in g the germ and all the caryopsis layer (the operation is known as whitening). Parboiled rice is obtained by soaking paddy rice in hot water, fo llo w e d by cooking and drying. This rice can then be m ille d to o b ta in w h o le o r w h ite parboiled rice.
A griculture et développem ent ■ Special i:
W ith respect to w h ite rice (as o p p o sed to w h o l e and b r o w n ric e and ble nds, etc.), p re c oo k ed p a rb o ile d rice, quick-cooking rice, cooked rice packed in plastic pouches and frozen have had considerable success. The latter type can be used for collective catering purposes after reheating in m ic ro w a v e ovens. Precooked rices account for 6-8 % of the French mar ket, probably more than in the other Eu rop ea n U n i o n c o u n t r ie s w h e r e they were o n ly recently introduced. A lth o u g h w h ite rice dom in ates the market, parboiled rice has increased its s h are o f t h e m a r k e t s in c e th e 1970s. It n o w represents 4 5-50 % of French market sales, 23% in United Kingdom, 17% in Italy, compared to o n l y 1 0% in USA ( H O G G , 1 9 9 1 ; LECHEVALLIER, 1 9 9 0 ; M A Z Z I N I , 1992).
There has been an increase in the variety o f table rice consumed in the last 10 years, a lt h o u g h s t ill o n l y a c c o u n tin g for a small share o f the m arket: b ro w n or h a lf - m ille d rice, rice b lends, w i l d ric e and o rg a n ic rice (cultivated w it h o u t chemicals). T h is c o n s u m p t i o n w a s a lm o s t n o n e x i s t e n t at th e o u t s e t o f th e 1 9 8 0 s . In 1 9 9 2 , a r o m a t i c r ic e c o n s u m p tio n , in U n ite d K in g d o m , reached a b o u t 40 000 t o f basmati r ic e f r o m I n d i a and P a k is ta n . 3 - December 1 99 5 F ra n c e w a s t h e s e c o n d la rg e s t m arket (8 000 t) and G e rm a ny was t h ir d (3 0 0 0 -4 0 0 0 t). It w o u l d be r e a s o n a b le to e x p e c t f u r t h e r increases in European Union imports o f th is t y p e o f r ic e — to 70 0 0 0 - 80 000 t in 1995-1996 and 100 0 0 0 1 by the year 2 0 0 0 .
Sales of processed rice products such as snack and breakfast fo od s have m arked ly increased, especia lly to a y o u n g u rb a n c l ie n t e l e . H o w e v e r , these products still o n ly a ccount for a small share o f the market.
In add itio n to these trends, the pro cessed rice industry is m oving away from canned seasoned cooked rice to f o c u s on r ic e -b a s e d c o n v e n ie n c e f o o d s a n d r e a d y - m a d e d is h e s . Several frozen or pasteurized cooked rice dishes have been launched by m a n u f a c t u r e r s a n d la r g e - s c a le g ro cery stores. The q u a lity o f such dishes is s te a d ily im p r o v in g , w it h sales i n c r e a s i n g s u b s t a n t i a l l y in urban areas.
The developm ent of rice specialities a n d n e w h i g h e r a d d e d v a lu e p r o d u c t s is r e la t e d to t h e h ig h e r average in c o m e in some countries. This has segmented the rice market, diversified prices and provided better m a r g i n s f o r m a n u f a c t u r e r s . For instance, prices for aromatic rice are 3 -fo ld higher, and dried precooked r ic e s in p o u c h e s are 2- to 3 - fo ld hig her th an fo r standard long-grain w hite rice.
Technological
and cooking
characteristics
of rice
Rice q u a lity is evaluated in various w a y s b y c o n s u m e r s in d i f f e r e n t regions. For instance, a soft texture is p re fe rre d in som e s o u th e rn Asian markets, as in southern Europe, while firmer cooked rice is more successful elsewhere in Europe. Parboiled rice has a slig ht ty p ic a l aroma in India, but none in Europe.
rice market
Table 5. CEC Regulation n° 1423/76 sets a reference standard for rice quality. It provides a basis for calculating the intervention price of paddy rice.
Healthy, true-to-type marketable rice, without any objectionable odour, meeting average round rice standards, harvested under normal conditions in European Union, of a type corresponding to cv Ballila.
Moisture content: 14.50%.
M illing yield in head rice from paddy of 63%, of which the proportion of defective grains should not exceed (by weight):
- chalky grain, 3%; - red streaked grain, 3%; - spotted grain, 0.50%; - yellow grain, 0.05%; - amber grain, 0.125%.
Table 6. Length/width grain ratio classification for white rice (European Union standard, 1988). Grain Length Length/
type (mm) width Short grain < 5 .2 < 2 Medium grain < 6.0 < 3 Long A > 6.0 < 3 Long B > 6.0 > 3 Indica
Q u ality assessment is also dependent on th e u l t i m a t e use o f th e r ic e , s in c e t e c h n o l o g i c a l and c o o k i n g performances can vary for different rice varieties. They are related to the morphological and chemical charac teristics o f the grain w h ic h , in turn, are related to g e n e tic aspects and cropping conditions.
Grain qualify criteria
and measurements
T h e re are th re e m a in r ic e q u a l i t y criteria: m illin g quality, appearance and c o o k i n g q u a li t y . A p p e a r a n c e and c o o k i n g q u a li t y are essential parameters for rice growers, traders, m a n u f a c t u r e r s a n d c o n s u m e r s . M il l i n g q u a lity is im p o rta n t for rice growers and millers.
E u r o p e a n U n i o n has d e f i n e d a s ta n d a r d m a r k e t q u a l i t y f o r ric e . It in c lu d e s m il l i n g y ie ld , m o is tu re content, and percentage o f broken, i m m a t u r e , c h a l k y a n d c o l o u r e d grains (Table 5). This classification, w h ic h aims at d e fin in g CEC market intervention conditions, is insufficient for manufacturers and distributers.
M illin g quality
M i l l i n g q u a lit y is measured by the white-grain m illing yield as a percen tage of paddy rice.
T he p r ic e p a id to th e fa r m e r and th e m ille r 's m a rg in are c a lc u la te d according to a standard m illing yield set by EU regulation. It varies from 68 to 71 kg o f w h ite rice, inclu ding 56 to 64 kg of head rice and the rest
b ro k e n s , m a i n l y used f o r a n i m a l fe e d . H o w e v e r , m i l l i n g y i e l d s actually obtained by millers fluctuate f r o m y e a r to y e a r a c c o r d i n g to varietal susceptibility and agroclima- tic conditio ns (CLEMENT & SEGUY, 1994). Yields are also higher w he n m i l l i n g is c a r r ie d o u t at 1 4 - 1 6 % grain m o is tu re c o n te n t. M o re o v e r, parboiling reduces the percentage of b r o k e n s o b t a i n e d in r ic e m i l l s (MESTRES et al., 1993).
A p p e a ra n c e
The appearance of w h ite and parboi led rices is evaluated by grain size, shape, c o lo u r , gloss, tr a n s lu c e n c y and unifo rm ity. A classification was o ffic ia lly established by EU in 1988 a ccording to m o rp h o lo g ic a l criteria based on l e n g t h / w i d t h r a tio s fo r w h ite grains (Table 6 ). Consum ers c u rre n tly prefer A and B long-grain rices. Traders' customary references are a " U S " r ic e ( N o r t h A m e r i c a n standards) w it h a w h i t e ric e g ra in le n g th o f m o r e th a n 7 m m and a " S u r in a m " rice w it h a grain length o f more than 8 mm.
A chalky core (white, non-translucent) on w hite rice, w h ic h is a varietal and a g r o n o m i c f e a t u r e , a nd a y e l l o w r a th e r th a n a m b e r p a r b o il e d r ic e colour, are considered as defects by m a n y c o n s u m e r s . I n d e e d , w h i t e c o re , th e f l o u r y p art o f rice e n d o sperm, is eliminated by parboiling or cooking, i.e. starch is gelatinized thus making the grain translucid.
Physicochemical characteristics
The physicochem ical characteristics are useful cooking quality indicators. They are all related to certain proper ties o f starch, the m ain c o m p o n e n t o f m illed rice. The amylose content (a s ta rc h c o m p o n e n t , a lo n g w it h a m y lo p e c t in ) is th e best i n d ic a t o r (PONS et al., 1992). It is positively c o r r e l a t e d w i t h th e m o i s t u r e absorption capacity d urin g co oking and w it h firm n e s s (pressure resis ta n c e ) o f c o o k e d ric e , i.e. as th e a m y l o s e c o n t e n t in c r e a s e s , t h e c o o k e d rice is fir m e r w h e n eaten. Conversely, it is negatively correlated
A griculture et développem ent ■ Special issue - December 1995
W hite rice grade
standards
The percentages of brokens, damaged grains and ch a lk y grains are used in European U n io n , regardless o f the length/width ratios, to classify rice into the follow ing four quality grades: - superior q uality rice, w ith not more than 5% brokens (1 5% for precooked
rice);
- rice w ith up to 10% brokens (25% for precooked rice);
- second choice rice, w ith up to 50% brokens. For this grade the percentage o f brokens must be indicated on the bag;
- rice brokens, w ith more than 50% brokens.
Superior quality cannot have more than 1% of damaged and chalky grains, and not more than 6% for other rices. The m a x im u m m o is tu re c o n te n t is set at 15% for w hite rice and 13% for precooked rice.
Measuring firmness in cooked rice with an Instron texturometer.
Photo T. Erwin
w i t h s tic k in e s s ( J U L IA N O , 198 5). G r a i n e l a s t i c i t y ( i.e . c a p a c i t y to reco ver its o rig in a l shape after the f ir s t c h e w ) and th e g e l a t in i z a t i o n temperature of rice flour dissolved in w a te r are also analysed. The latter parameter is a good indicator of rice cooking performance.
Relationships between
instrumental measurements
and sensory analyses
Inform ation on consumers' sensorial evaluations of rice texture is limited or h e d o n ic , i.e. consumers express their preference on the organoleptic q u a l i t i e s o f c o o k e d r ic e , w h i c h is b y d e f i n i t i o n n o t o b j e c t i v e (DALLAR & PONS, 1994; JULIANO, 1985; OKABE, 1979). There are no p u b lis h e d se n s o ry e v a lu a t io n s o f rice in Europe.
A t e x t u r e p r o f i l e w a s r e c e n t l y d e v e l o p e d in F ra n c e base d on a sensory analysis o f different cooked r ic e t e x t u r e s b y a t r a i n e d p a n e l (ROUSSET e ta ! ., 1994). The results w e re c o m p a r e d w it h ric e textures m e a s u r e d w i t h i n s t r u m e n t s . The trained panel was able to describe rice te xture by n ot less th an 19 sensory attributes, and six o f them were the best d e s c rip to rs fo r d if fe r e n tia tin g samples. Elasticity o f co oke d grain showed the most marked differences, f o l l o w e d b y j u i c i n e s s , f i r m n e s s , g r a n u l a r t e x t u r e , s t i c k i n e s s and g ra in le n g t h . F i n a ll y , th e t e x t u r e c l a s s i f i c a t i o n s f o r t h e s a m p le s according to these sensory attributes were not far from those determined instrumentally.
Industrial and consumer
requirements
In 1 9 7 0 , t h e q u a l i t i e s p r e f e r r e d by household consumers were taste ( f l a v o u r ) in I t a ly , a p p e a r a n c e in F ra n c e , q u i c k n e s s o f c o o k i n g in G e rm a n y and the N ethe rlan ds and the rice brand in Belgium. Generally, the rice-producing co un try (country o f o r ig in ) was th e least im p o r t a n t
factor, w h ile the major criterion was that the rice should not be sticky. In 1 9 9 4 , EU h o u s e h o ld c o n s u m e r rice q uality preferences seemed to be more homogeneous. Non-stickiness is still the most im p orta nt c riterion, fo llo w e d by long slender grain and then quickness of cooking, except for tr a d itio n a l c u is in e in ric e -g r o w in g regions and for dessert recipes (cakes and puddings). Parboiled rice is only o f in te re s t b ecause th e g ra in s are f i r m a n d u n s t i c k y a f t e r c o o k i n g and these qualities are not lost w ith overcooking.
Consumers are relatively unaware of in n o v a tio n s c o n c e rn in g rice that is available on the market. The industry should inform and "educate" consu m e rs to g u a r a n t e e s u c c e s s fu l development o f their activities. W ith the in tro d u c tio n o f new varieties of r ic e ( w i l d a n d a r o m a t i c ) , re a d y prepared meals, ind iv id u a l portions o f b o i l - i n - t h e - b a g ric e , w e t - p a c k c a n n e d rices and ins tan t rice (i.e. co oke d in 3-5 m in), manufacturers are s e ek ing typ es o f ric e th a t w i l l stand up w e ll to specific treatments o r t h a t w i l l be b e t t e r s u it e d fo r specific preparations.
The industrial requirem ents can be expressed by the fo llo w in g questions: are amylose content and gelatin iza t i o n t e m p e r a t u r e t h e o n l y t w o fa c to rs to c o n s id e r f o r lo n g - g r a in ric e ? Is it p o s s i b l e to f i n d a r ic e v a r i e t y w i t h a v e r y l o w s ta rch h a r d e n i n g rate a fte r c o o k i n g and c o o lin g (termed "rétrogradation" by sp ecialists)? Is th e re a n y ric e that does not require p a rb o ilin g but yet has the same texture as parboiled rice a f te r c o o k i n g and c a n n i n g , or c o ok ing and freezing? W h a t are the critical parameters to obtain instant rice? Is th e re a r e lia b le m e th o d to assess the authenticity and purity of a shipment of aromatic rice?
European research
on rice quality
V arious research programmes have been set up, some w ith CEC backing,
rice market
Measuring
cooking quality
C ooking q u a lity cannot be described and evaluated according to o n ly one or tw o criteria. Several methods have been developed to assess the cooking properties and texture o f cooked rice. Texture, a m a jo r fa c to r d e te rm in in g c o o k in g q u a lit y , has a lw a y s been d iffic u lt to measure (JULIANO et al., 1984). The c rite ria m ost c o m m o n ly used to define texture are as follows: - the firmness and stickiness of cooked g ra in , m e a su re d w it h a u n iv e r s a l texturometer (Instron);
- the thickness, firmness and elasticity o f c o o k e d g ra in , m e a s u re d w it h a viscoelastograph (Chopin);
- the moisture absorption capacity or e x te n t o f s w e llin g o f c o o k e d g rain, determined by the cooked grain weight over the uncooked weight.
at national levels in several countries. They aim at adjusting the q u a lity of EU r ic e to m e e t d o m e s tic m a r k e t requirements. They cover the w ho le r ic e s e c t o r , f r o m c u l t i v a t i o n techniques to q u a lity analysis te c h niques, w h i l e s p e c ific a lly fo cusin g on aromatic rice. These programmes are being im plem en te d by national research o rg a n iz a tio n s , w it h in p u t from other organizations w it h in the EU research network.
Standardizing analytical
methods
A t the EU level, th e p ro g ra m m e to promote indica type rice highlighted an u r g e n t nee d to s t a n d a r d i z e a n a ly tic a l m ethods in the in v o lv e d research laboratories.
Measurem ents o f am ylose content, firmness and stickiness were harmo n iz e d fro m 198 8 to 1 9 9 0 th ro u g h c om parisons o f te chn iqu es used in six European la b o ra to rie s (France, Italy, N ethe rlan ds, Portugal, Spain and United Kingdom). It was found that the same procedure was used in all laboratories, but the precision of th e results v a rie d , th u s h in d e r i n g e x p e r im e n t a l r e p r o d u c i b i l i t y . For instance, the p re c is io n o f am ylose determ ina tion s is h ig hly dependent on the purity of amylose and amylo- p e c t i n s ta n d a r d s s u p p l i e d by manufacturers, w h ic h were found to vary between shipments.
In 1 9 9 1 , a r in g te s t w a s set u p , coordinated by the Flour and M illin g and B a k in g Research A s s o c ia tio n (FMBRA, United Kingdom) under the auspices o f the C o m m u n it y Bureau o f R e fe re n c e (Brussels), b e tw e e n f i v e l a b o r a t o r i e s ( F r a n c e , I t a ly , N e th e rla n d s , Portugal and U n ite d K i n g d o m ) to a n a ly s e s a m p le s produced by one of the laboratories. The results w e re f u l ly satisfactory. These samples w i l l n o w be used as s ta n d a r d s u n t i l y e a r 2 0 0 0 . T h is c o o r d i n a t e d a p p r o a c h f a c i li t a t e s in te r la b o r a to ry in te rp re ta tio n s and g re a tly im p ro v e s th e r e l i a b i l i t y o f amylose content measurements.
International research
cooperation
T h e M e d i t e r r a n e a n R e g io n C o o p e ra tiv e Research N e t w o rk on Rice was established after an FAO c o n s u lt a tio n m e e tin g in France in
1 99 0. The m e m b e rs are B u lg a ria , Egypt, F ra n ce, G re e c e , F lu n g a ry , Italy, M o ro c c o , Portugal, Romania, Russia, Spain and Turkey; it is also o p e n to o t h e r M e d i t e r r a n e a n c o u n t r i e s . T h e N e t w o r k a im s at pro moting rice research cooperation between all countries that p roduce this cereal under the Mediterranean clim a te . Five w o r k in g groups were set u p , to c o v e r : b i o t e c h n o l o g y , b r e e d in g , a g r o n o m y , p ro c e s s in g , e c o n o m ic s / m a rk e tin g . Each g ro u p has g o t t o g e t h e r at le a s t o n c e s in c e 1 9 9 0 to p re p a re t h e i r w o r k programme. T h e r ic e p r o c e s s i n g g r o u p , f o r instance, met in Egypt in 1992 and recommended three main focuses for w o r k : u t i l i z a t i o n o f b y - p r o d u c t s , extension o f rice m illin g technology to villages (of p artic ular interest for Egypt), and rice q u a lity . The group should meet again in 1995 to further discuss these three to pics. The rice q u a li t y g ro u p w i l l c o n c e n tr a t e on i n t e r l a b o r a t o r y c o m p a r i s o n s o f a n a l y t i c a l t e c h n i q u e s to assess the q u a li t y o f ric e v a rie tie s g ro w n
in the region.
T h e s c i e n t i f i c a s p e c ts o f t h e Network's activities are as follows: - i m p r o v i n g w a t e r use e f f i c i e n c y
in r ic e c u l t i v a t i o n t h r o u g h h ig h technology irrigation;
- in c re a s in g y ie ld s t h ro u g h w id e - ranging h y b r id iz a tio n or the use of new biotechnology tools;
- using molecular biology techniques to overcom e constraints concerning water stress, salinity and high a lu m i n iu m levels, to e n a b le successful cropping of high quality rice (indica) in the Mediterranean climate;
- i m p r o v i n g d r y i n g , s to ra g e and handling e quipm ent and techniques to r e d u c e p e rc e n ta g e s o f b ro k e n grains and energy consumption;
A mini-rice mill is used in the laboratory to mill small quantities of rice. It can also be used in industrial plants to test the technical quality of a batch before processing.
General layout.
Photo T. Erwin
The husker removes the external layers (husk) of paddy rice grain to obtain cargo rice.
Photo T. Erwin
The blancher. After several runs, the mill cone gradually wears down the outer caryopsis layer of the cargo rice grain to obtain white rice.
Photo T. Erwin
- im p ro v in g o b je c t iv e m ethods for measuring rice quality, flavour c o m pounds and the effects of storage on rice quality;
- investigating rice grain protein/star ch in te ra c tio n s d u r in g processing; new processing techniques; nutritio nal q u a lit y o f rice e n ric h e d o r not w ith vitamins or amino acids; finding uses for lo w gelatinization tempera ture rice varieties;
- d e v e lo p in g e xpe rt systems to aid rice producers in decision making, e v alua ting the cost-effectiveness of input applications in flood irrigation systems and the impact on rice yield and quality.
riz and the O ffice national interpro fessionnel des céréales (ONIC). Prior to th is, Ita ly was the o n l y c o u n try w it h s p e c ia liz e d ric e in s tit u tio n s , such as the Ente Risi and the Centro di Ricerche sul Riso. The latter insti tu tio n carrie d o u t a comprehensive s tu d y on th e c o o k i n g q u a lit ie s o f 90 ja p ó n ic a rice varieties cultivated in t h e c o u n t r y , w h i l e t a k i n g th e cooking criteria of the EU indica rice program m e into accou nt (M AZZINI
et al., 1990). Most of the varieties had
h ig h s tic k in e s s and l o w hardness results in th e c o o k e d ric e te x tu re analyses. T h is in d ic a te s th a t they w o u ld not q u a lify for the European indica rice programme.
Institutional research
I n s t i t u t i o n a l res e arc h has m a i n l y been strenghtened in France w ith the founding o f the Centre français du riz (CFR) in 1988 by a jo in t decision of the French M in is try o f A g ric u ltu re , the Association des producteurs de
European prospects
The European U nio n, w ith 350 000 to 370 000 ha cropped w ith rice, is not yet s e lf-s u ffic ie n t, b u t it c o uld become so if the crop zone were to
rice market
Semiautomatic measurements of rice grain lengths/widths using a Russian HP3-8 apparatus.
Photo T. Erwin
e x p a n d b e y o n d 4 0 0 0 0 0 ha. Nevertheless, the main objective for the c o m in g years should be to meet EU m a r k e t d e m a n d f o r l o n g - g r a in indica rice.
Rice breeders are w o rk in g in all EU r ic e - g r o w in g c o u n trie s to im p ro v e m i l l i n g y i e l d s w i t h lo n g — and slender — grain varieties and enhan ce th e ir a g ro n o m ic traits (i.e. e a r li ness, p ro du ctivity, and resistance to cold , blast and shattering). Selection p ro g ra m m e s are based on v a rie ta l i n t r o d u c t i o n s , h a p l o i d m e t h o d s , h y b r id i z a t i o n , mass s e le c tio n and m u ta g e n e s is . M a n y g e n e t i c a l l y
g** K - , ■
i m p r o v e d v a r i e t ie s s h o u ld be obtained w ith in the next 2-4 years. EU rice in d u s trie s are f o c u s in g on d iv e r s i f i c a t i o n o f r ic e b le n d s and ready-made rice dishes. There w ill be fu rthe r research on rices w it h traits that could upgrade the quality o f final processed products.
T h e i n d u s t r y s h o u ld p r o v i d e consumers w ith more comprehensive information. Rice is considered as an easy to prepare garnish to accompany fish or meat dishes and, in contrast, as a speciality to be cooked w ith care. In the first case, the ideal w o u ld be a s le n d e r, u n s t ic k y and t r a n s l u c e n t w h i t e r ic e o r p a r b o i l e d r ic e , o r
p r e c o o k e d r ic e , w h i c h h a v e a relatively neutral taste. In the second case, tasty rice (po ssib ly a ro m a tic ) s h o u ld be c a r e f u l l y p r e p a r e d ( c o n t r o l l e d w a t e r q u a n t i t i e s and c o o k in g times) for festive occasions and gourmet meals.
How can the
South benefit?
A l l o f t h e re s e a r c h a n d a n a ly s is techniques discussed here are quite sophisticated. They might be difficult to a p p ly in d e v e lo p in g tro p ic a l and subtropical countries because of the long-term costs or, more subjectively, due to d iffe re n c e s in standard rice quality criteria. However, simple rou tine methods could be im plemented to assess c o o k in g characteristics of l o c a l r ic e v a r i e t ie s in A f r i c a , e.g. e x te n t o f g ra in s w e l l in g a fte r c o o k i n g , fir m n e s s m e a s u r e m e n ts w i t h a p e n e t r o m e t e r ( ra th e r t h a n a more expensive Instron texturome- te r), a n d s t ic k in e s s e v a l u a t e d by hand testing.
E x p e rie n c e in Asia and A f r ic a has shown that local rices are preferred over imports. For instance, in China, Côte d 'I v o ir e and V ie tn a m , c o n s u mers have a low opinion of imported rices, w h ic h never taste or c o o k as w ell as local varieties. In Africa, rice im p o r t e d f r o m A s ia is o n l y e aten because it is sold c h eaper than the local types. Local rices are alw a ys used fo r festive oc c as ion s . In C ôte d'Ivoire, the local variety IRAT 216 is h i g h l y e s te e m e d b y c o n s u m e r s , d e s p it e th e fa c t t h a t i n s t r u m e n t a l a na ly s e s in d i c a t e t h a t it is a v e ry a v e ra g e q u a l i t y r ic e b y E u rop ea n standards.
Countries that intend to improve their rice production should thus take both the o b je c t iv e a n a ly tic a l results and consumer preferences into considera tion w he n developing their policies. Finally, in the longer term, it w o u ld be in te re s tin g to set up a b re e d in g p r o g r a m m e f o r A f r i c a n a r o m a t i c rices, w ith the aim of competing w ith Asian aromatic rices that n o w d o m i nate w o rld markets.
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Abstract... Resumen... Résumé
J. FAURE, F. MAZAUD — Rice quality in the European Union.
Five European Union countries produce rice, supplying a p p ro x im a te ly 2.1 m illio n to nn es o f pad dy rice (i.e. 1.4 million tonnes of white rice). Total consumption is 3.1 million tonnes in the whole of Europe. Consumption increases each year and imports are required to make up for insufficient production and to meet consumer pre feren ce fo r long g ra in rice o f the indica type . The variety of rice-based foods resulting from industry efforts in diversification and the now broader range of special types of rice available today, such as aromatic, wild and pre-cooked rice requires better control and more accurate d e fin itio n of grain q u a lity features. It is increasingly important to measure the technological and culinary qualities according to the end-use criteria that are equally important for industrialists and breeders. Coop eration betw een European Union coun tries has received financial backing from the Commission of the European Communities to promote high-quality European Union rice p ro d u ctio n su ite d to this growing market.
Keyw ords: rice, g ra in , in d ic a , ja p ó n ic a , a g ro fo o d technology, quality, research, consumption, m arket, European Union.
J. FAURE, F. MAZAUD — La calidad del arroz en la Unión Europea.
Cinco paises de la Unión Europea son productores de arroz y suministran aproximadamente 2,1 millones de to ne lad a s de a rro z paddy (es decir 1,4 m illón de toneladas de arroz blanco), sobre un total de 3,1 millones para toda Europa. El consumo aumenta cada año y, para completar la producción insuficiente y responder a la preferencia de los consumidores por el arroz largo y fino del tipo indica, es necesario importar. La diversificación de las preparaciones alimentarias a base de arroz, debido a los esfuerzos de innovación de los industriales y la gama más am plia de arroces especiales disponibles actualmente, como los arroces aromáticos, silvestres o precocidos, requieren un mejor control y una definición más precisa de las características cualitativas del grano. Resulta cada vez más importante medir las cualidades tecnológicas y culinarias en función de la utilización final, según criterios que presenten tanto interés para los in d u stria le s como para los seleccionadores. Se ha organizado la cooperación entre los paises de la Unión Europea, con el apoyo financiero de la Comisión de las Comunidades europeas, para promover una producción interior de arroz de calidad, adecuada para este mercado en expansión.
Palabras clave: arroz, grano, indica, japónica, tecnología a g ro a lim e n ta ria , calidad, in ves tiga ció n, consumo, mercado, Unión Europea.
J. FAURE, F. MAZAUD — La qualité du riz dans l'Union européenne.
Cinq pays de l'Union européenne sont producteurs de riz et fournissent environ 2,1 millions de tonnes de riz paddy (soit 1,4 million de tonnes de riz blanc), sur un total de 3,1 millions pour l'ensemble de l'Europe. La consommation augmente chaque année et il faut importer pour compléter la production insuffisante et répondre à la préférence des consommateurs pour le riz à grain long et fin de type indica. La diversification des préparations alimentaires à base de riz, due aux efforts d'innovation des industriels et la g am m e plus la rg e de riz sp éciau x disponibles a u jo u rd 'h u i, comme les riz a ro m atiques, sauvages, précuits, requièrent un meilleur contrôle et une définition plus précise des caractéristiques qualitatives du grain. Il est de plus en plus important de mesurer les qualités technologiques et culinaires en fonction de l'utilisation finale, selon des critères qui présentent autant d'intérêt pour les in du striels que pour les sélectionneurs. La coopération entre les pays de l'Union européenne s'est o rganisée avec l'a p p u i fin a n c ie r de la Commission des communautés européennes, pour promouvoir une production rizicole intérieure de qualité, adaptée à ce marché en expansion.
Mots-clés : riz, g ra in , in d ic a , ja p ó n ic a , technologie a g roa lim e ntaire, q ualité, recherche, consommation, marché, Union européenne.
