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IMPACT OF A TIO2 [NANO] COSMETICS GRADE ON THE CUTANEOUS MICROBIOTA: NANOPARTICLES BEHAVIOR IN EMULSION AND BACTERIOTOXICITY

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HAL Id: hal-02468129

https://hal-normandie-univ.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-02468129

Submitted on 5 Feb 2020

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IMPACT OF A TIO2 [NANO] COSMETICS GRADE ON THE CUTANEOUS MICROBIOTA:

NANOPARTICLES BEHAVIOR IN EMULSION AND BACTERIOTOXICITY

Laura Rowenczyk, Magalie Barreau, Celine Picard, Cécile Duclairoir-Poc, Nicolas Hucher, Nicole Orange, Marc Feuilloley, Michel Grisel

To cite this version:

Laura Rowenczyk, Magalie Barreau, Celine Picard, Cécile Duclairoir-Poc, Nicolas Hucher, et al..

IMPACT OF A TIO2 [NANO] COSMETICS GRADE ON THE CUTANEOUS MICROBIOTA:

NANOPARTICLES BEHAVIOR IN EMULSION AND BACTERIOTOXICITY. 29th Congress of

the IFSCC, Oct 2016, Orlando, United States. �hal-02468129�

(2)

0 10 20 30 40

KBr N1S N1FN1A

Normalized polar components (J.m-2)

SKIN APPLICATION OF THE SUNSCREEN

IMPACT OF A TIO

2

[NANO] COSMETICS GRADE ON THE CUTANEOUS MICROBIOTA:

NANOPARTICLES BEHAVIOR IN EMULSION AND BACTERIOTOXICITY

Laura Rowenczyka,b, Magalie Barreaub, Céline Picarda, Cécile Duclairoir-Pocb, Nicolas Huchera, Nicole Orangeb, Marc Feuilloleyband Michel Grisela

a. Normandie Univ, ULH, CNRS, URCOM, 76600 Le Havre, France.

b. Laboratoire de Microbiologie Signaux et Microenvironnement EA 4312, Université de Rouen, 55 rue saint Germain 27000 Evreux, France.

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles (NP) are commonly used in cosmetics as UV filters(1;2). For cosmetic grades, coatings (silica or alumina) are applied to prevent TiO2from forming radicals. These coatings procure to the NP their surface properties (polarity, charge) and impose their behavior in emulsion.

INTRODUCTION

During formulation and storage, cosmetic emulsions are exposed to aggressions which can accelerate aging. NP in emulsion may aggregate, adsorb formula’s compounds or be deteriorated(5). Hence, the chemical and physicochemical characteristics of these NP could be modified before the skin exposure.

Herein the surface modifications of the NP are studied during aging in emulsion. Then, these modifications are related to the impact of the NP on two cutaneous bacteria. Hence, bacteria are known to compose the first skin barrier.

SiO2

CONCLUSION

In this study, the aging of a coated TiO2-NP was studied in emulsion and gave important information concerning the NP behavior under use conditions.

The surface chemistry of the NP quickly evolved once in emulsion as the particles adsorbed emulsion ingredients. This evolution induced a modification of the physicochemistry of the NP surface (polarity, charges…) and changed the NP impact toward the cutaneous bacteria.

Whereas the surface charges were not shown to have a significant impact, the polarity of the NP is a key parameter that strongly modifies the interaction NP/bacteria.

(1) Popov, A.; Priezzhev, A.; Lademann, J.; Myllyla, R.J.of Phys D Appl.Phys.2005,38, 2564–2570.

(2) Chen, L. L.; Tooley, I.; Wang, S. Q. Nanotechnology in photoprotection.Springer Sciences.

(3) Dunford, R.; Salinaro, A.; Cai, L.; Serpone, N.; Horikoshi, S.; Hidaka, H.; Knowland, J.FEBS Letters1997,418, 87–90.

(4) Labille, J.; Feng, J.; Botta, C.; Borschneck, D.; Sammut, M.; Cabie, M.; Auffan, M.; Rose, J.; Bottero, J. Y.Environ.Pollut.2010, 3482–3489.

(5) Rossano, M., Hucher, N., Picard, C., Colleta, D., Le Foll, F., Grisel, M., 2014. Int. J. Pharm. 461, 89–96.

(6) Rowenczyk, L.; Picard, C.; Duclairoir-Poc, C.; Hucher, N.; Orange, N.; Feuilloley, M.; Grisel, M.Int. J. Pharm.2016,510, 125–134.

(7) Bellon-Fontaine, M.-N., Rault, J., van Oss, C.J., 1996. Colloid Surface B, 7, 47–53.

TAKE-HOME MESSAGE

When measuring the impact of coated-NP on biological models, it is necessary to study their aging under use condition as their surface properties could quickly evolve.

COSMETIC COATED TIO2-NP

10 µm High agglomerated powder

A B

-50 -40 -30 -20 -10 0

2 4 6 8 10

ZP (mV)

pH

N1S N1F N1A -50

-40 -30 -20 -10 0

2 4 6 8 10

ZP (mV)

pH

MFP 03 MFP 05

FORMULATION OF NP IN SUNSCREEN MODEL EMULSION(7)

Water + Gelling agent (acrylate crosspolymer)

Surfactants(steareth)

OIl PHASE AQUEOUS PHASE

Esters, Beeswax, Paraffin

Aggregated NP

100 µm

Chemical analysis of the component adsorbed on NP surface by MS-TOF.

(A) Results of the microbial adhesion to solvents test (MATS) (7) and (B) Relative polar component of nanoparticles.

Comparison of bacteria (A) and NP (B) surface charges.

S. aureus P. fluorescens

Control NP NP from fresh emulsion NP from aged emulsion

TiO2

A B

CHEMICAL ANALYSIS:

Adsorption of emulsion components.

Identified as a compound from paraffin.

SURFACE CHARGES:

More intense negative surface charges onP. fluorescens.

Intense negative surface charges on all NP.

Electrostatic repulsions could prevent NP/S. aureus interactions.

POLARITY:

P. fluorescensis the most hydrophilic bacteria.

Polarity of the NP dependent on their aging.

Less polar NP has less impact on bacteria.

CHARACTERIZATIONS OF NP & BACTERIA SURFACES

DEGRADATION OF THE COATING AGGREGATION OF NP

ADSORBPION OF EMULSION INGREDIENTS

PHYSICOCHEMICAL MODIFICATION DURING AGING EXPLAINED THE

DIFFERENT IMPACTS OF NP.

STUDYING THE SURFACE PROPERTIES OF NP AND BACTERIA COULD EXPLAIN THEIR INTERACTIONS.

DURING EMULSION AGING, THE SURFACE CHEMISTRY OF THE NP HAS CHANGED.

100 µm

IMPACT OF NP ON BACTERIA GROWTH

0 20 40 60 80 100

Generation time (min)

*** *** ***

** **

0 20 40 60 80 100

Generation time (min)

*** ** ***

***

Generation times of both bacteria are significantly longer with NP.

Impact of the NP dependent on their aging in emulsion:

- Lower impact: NP from fresh emulsion.

- Higher impact: NP from aged emulsion.

EVOLUTION OF THE BACTERIAL IMPACT OF THE NP DURING AGING WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF THE NP AGING ON SKIN

BACTERIA ?

Impact of the NP on the growth of Staphyloccocus aureus. Impact of the NP on the growth of Pseudomonas fluorescens.

0 20 40 60 80 100

% adhesion

S. aureus P. fluorescens

INTEGRATION OF NP

Références

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